survivalshop

Do you want this one ? I don't like to see you upset !

I have two Builds with DPMS sets & they work just fine , no problems with them .

Batter up !

Call them up & ask for Josh, he will help you out The Muzzle Device , Gas Block & Gas Tube do not come with it .

I need the " K " frame grips for my Model 19 Target & I think the Target grips are different then the std., I think they have a thumb rest , I'll have to look them up again. It has Pachmayr Presentation on now , which are real nice .

I like Vortex also , will probably be my next scope . I have their Red dot & its been great , it rests on my old lady's Carbine.

I've been looking for a set for my 6 " Model 19 Target , its one of the older ones with the recessed Cylinder for the Cartridge head . I like the wood , the way they look.

I kinda knew that , had to ask to make sure . I just didn't want to confuse someone that just de-burring the case was enough . You sound like me in reloading , go slow & never skip anything .

Are you saying the cases don't need too be trimmed to length ? With out them being relatively close to" trim to length "or at least all some what close to the same length with in the specified limits , Crimping will be inconsistent no matter how the mouth of the case is cleaned up . I don't Crimp in the same step ether .

A consistent trim of the cases also will help .

Six months for a Receiver Extension ( Buffer Tube ) , is made of Gold , or something ?

What Dies are you using ? The only issue I have with the Lee factory crimp Die & non Cannelure Bullets is it can make the brass case mouth have a weak point . I may have over crimped them , but I don't think so . After firing when looking at the cases & after tumbling to clean , I noticed I could see a dark line on the inside of the case ,around the mouth . I looked at the fired brass that was Taper crimped & it looked normal . All brass was once reloaded LC , annealed , stainless steel tumbled & I know it was't there before . I had a photo , but I think I deleted it , I may have the brass that I put in the Recycle can , its very noticeable . I would hate to have a case mouth separation because of a weakened case mouth from Crimping . As said I may have put too much of a Crimp , but I'm usually conservative on my crimping , including Taper Crimping . Other wise go for it , I like the Lee FCD , but I Taper Crimp all Bullets with out a Cannelure . A lot of reloader's don't even crimp , as long as you have proper neck tension .

Thats more believable . I never thought they were purchasing all that ammo for themselves .

Photo's

It will take only one piece of lead tip to ruin your hunt or the trophy of a life time . As said above , many good alternatives with out lead tips.

That's what I thought also , you would be surprised on how many people that shoot a 44 mag cry like it hurts & don't want to shoot them again . A rifle ain't like shooting a Pistol !

Man , if you haven't seen this , its a shame how they rolled this thing . http://www.autoblog.com/2016/06/26/jay-leno-rollover-crash-hemi-under-glass-video/

The Gas Block is set ( locked down , by pins, Screws or clamped ) on the barrel in relation to the Gas Port & is not moved , an adj. gas Block , through an adjustment screw ,plug ,port or what ever ) just adj. gas flow or Gas signature from the Barrels Gas Port or orifice to effect cycling of the rifles reciprocating Action components .( Bolt Carrier Group Buffer & Spring ) I think you knew that.

If small primers support higher pressures , why not use them in 44 mag. or other big calibers. Slide fit or Firing Pin slop would have to be way out to support the argument of the an issue with the Primer not being set off , because of it . Man that would have to be one sloppy 1911

You have to admit , both models look good ! I have a 29-3 with a six inch bbl. ,Dirty Harry model .

Sounds like you want to move the gas Block on the Barrel to adj. for Gas signature , its why I said that. Do you mean spin the Gas adjuster on an Adj. Gas Block ? The issue with any Adj.Gas Block is , if you shoot different Ammo with different loadings , you ether have to make adjustments for each particular loading or set them for a wide range of ammo loadings , so the rifle functions with the wide verity of different loads you plan on using , by doing that , you can forget about your light recoil .

Man up , bro

Are you building this rifle your self or having a builder do it ? As far as adj. the Gas Block on the Barrel , don't bother , your just asking for issues , if you want to adj. the Gas impulse , go with an adj.Gas Black ,like has been mentioned . You can look in the Reloading section & There is plenty of Chrono. results in there for different barrels , Powders & Bullet wt.'s .

The rifle length Stock will perceive less recoil for a number of reasons , one being a larger Buffer & spring & in the Magpul MOE , a good Rubber recoil pad . The Hang Guard on the 18" is an Early JP 's VTac ( pre 2009 ) , 308AR , with full length top Rail ( rail is an Exta $ 90 ) , other rails can be added at the normal positions . Why the 16" , just handy to carrie & swing around & slightly lighter , more compact with the Collapsible stock system. I have a Burris 6.5x22x50 on it , but was installed only to have a good comparison shoot out with the other two . I will go back to Iron sights only ,when done, I like Iron sights even with my old eye's. I would stick with std rifle stock components if using a rifle stock system.

I have a 20" HB , 18" med. & a 16" HB, all Criterion barrels on DPMS type Receivers ( the 16" & 20" have actual DPMS Receiver sets ), the 20" HB is a beast ,but will print one hole groups with my hand loads 168's & 175's . The 16" will do as good as the 18" & with those two I went to 155 gr. .Though the 168's do a bit better ,I don't have a range close that I can shoot past 200 yards & the 16" will shoot sub MOA at that difference, if I do my part , so its why I went to the 155 gr. . Just not much of a difference at that range between all three , I have no doubt about the 16" holding its own at 600 yards with good glass . My 18" has a Magpul MOE Rifle Stock & my 20" has an A2 , the Magpul is a much better rifle stock to me . I don't believe in any of that fancy stuff ether , All my Barrels have Rifle length gas systems , std BCG 's & DPMS Buffer's & springs ( 18" has a Tubb's flat wire spring & works great , only sing I had around at the time tat was correct for a 308AR ) , non adj has blocks .The 16" Has a Magpul CTR Stock & the rifle has a little kick , but its a 308 & on the lighter side compared to the other two , all Have some kind of Brakes & they all do what is meant of them , I could care less about noise , I wear ear protection . Slash ( Heavy Buffers ) maks a good product & they work , I just do see the need except as you say you want a .22 recoil from a 308 , it will help . As has been said , around here we seem to hear more issues with proprietary components then Factory copy types . It is good you want to stay with the Matched or same Manufacturers Receiver set . Theres a lot to a consistent shooting rifle , the 16" BBL. is a better all around rifle , would not be my pick for a Bench gun for a 1K yards, but will hold its own with a good Barrel , Trigger , ammo & the most important , a good shooter . Photo of the 16' & 20" , though the Upper Receiver, Hand guard & Scope reside on the 18" now , as seen in next photo . I'll get a recent one on the 16" later . 18"