survivalshop

I agree !

I have no idea . Anyone out there have any of these running ?

The marks on the brass sound normal , after all , fired brass was & is , not meant to be reloaded . The bolt should be completely disassembled & all components should be inspected , function tested & or upgraded if need be . ( ejector/spring , extractor/spring , gas rings ) Carrier gas key should also be inspected for leaks or loose mounting screws.

Good price , that means someone has to buy one , fit it & test fire it & let us know or does some one have one tested ? I plan on using a 18.5, but may change my mind if this barrel has good reviews .

Flavor today was 308 with 168 SMK's & WC 846 powder , CCI primers. All hand weighed & taper crimped.

With so much inexpensive .223/5.56 brass around , why do the annealing . I've been reloading some of my brass 3 - 5 times already with out a split case . I'll just cut & form more to replace them , if need be . <dontknow> I like shooting 300BLK , I put the MBUS from my 16" 308 on my 300BLK, also lost its Burris Extreme Tach. rings to the 16 " 308 , so I can't wait to dump some 300BLK with irons & close.

Love my Nikons , but have been looking at the Leupolds lately. I've never owned one ,but have used & shot rifles with them & always wondered why some swear by them .

The lead sled kinda takes all the fun out of printing good groups <dontknow> Sure shows what the rifle & ammo is capable of, though.

oh !

Here's the difference

I'm trying to decide to do anything to the pivot pin side play . I may do another fitment with the disassembly pin area of the recoil lug , it may lock it up a little more . I can cut some shim stock to fit the front pivot area , but not sure I want to .If I had a Mill set up , I would build it up with something & Mill it down exactly to center the upper . The upper & lower are a good tight fit except for the little side play with the front pivot area. I have a bunch of testing to do with ammo also with this rifle & need the Chrony , but the rain is screwing me .

And this is What ? I had to ask .

I like the idea of having a press & scale on the tail gate . Been wanting to for a couple of years , guy at the range has a set up like that & adj. his loads right there , with his Chronograph.

You can't go wrong with a LaRue , if you don't mind the price or wait. Not sure if Wilson makes a 308 AR.

What brand mag. are you using ? Trying to feed two rounds at a time is usually magazine related, the feed lips are not holding the cartridges in place or like my CMMG lowered build , it will do that with any P-Mag I put in it ,the rifle will function correctly with only steel mags . Now if its a spent, non-ejected round & a live round , could be ejector or extractor problems. Save that steel cased fodder for when the rifle is functioning correctly . IMO that stuff sucks .

Release agent & trigger came today . Set up upper & lower with release agent & formed my epoxy to my " pea size & set upper into lower & reset disassembly push pin, let it set a couple of hours & it got rid of 85 % of play , but now the front pivot area is still loose . The gap in the CMMG lower that accepts the SI defense upper pivot block has 0.005 " play, by measurement. I may build this area up ( on the lower ) or make some shims for the pins to take up some of the play. Will shoot tomorrow , just to see if what I did made a difference in shot placement & grouping.Then maybe with front pivot area tightened up. I have photo's but they are no different than the ones above , except the epoxy is dark gray.

You didn't mention trimming the rifle cases , that makes it so much more fun . <thumbsup> I take days & some times weeks to load ammo , well wait , that was before I retired :banana: I still don't do a lot at one sitting , I like to spread it out . My target loads are all done on a single stage press & individually hand weighed . That takes some time .

I only use reloads , so it would be hard for me NOT, to break in a new build without them , but if you are unsure of your ammo , factory ammo is a good choice , as was said . 308 /7.62x51 cartridges are the same dimensions , its the chambers that are different . Any modern barrel will be able to shoot both , with out a problem , giving the ammo is to spec's.

Was the bolt fully into battery when it FTF ? I think you have a tight rifle assembly & it needs to get the round count up & don't be afraid to use a different lubricant . I use a small dab of synthetic grease at the back edges of the bolt locking lugs for break in , to help the bolt seat smoother into the barrel extension & as said , run her wet for a while . The firing pin retaining pin can be made tighter , which type do you have ? One like the AR 15 or the 308 type that has a head on it like a nail ?

I think your time frame of events in the good old USSR are a bit off, but the SKS was also a rip off of the STG 44 . They, just like the USA didn't think a long mag. jutting out of the bottom of the rifle helped in there much pronounced parades in Moscow. I suggest you look at the two rifle components more closely , sure there are differences , but the main firing & gas system components are very close . The AK 47 is the next step up from the SKS & every one knows it, the detachable mag. with its 30 rds. was necessity for the time & finished off the transformation to a STG 44 , which the Germans knew would be a game changer in war , at the time , they just couldn't get the numbers of them out , because of the ass hole in charge at the time thought that wars are won with bolt action rifles , that is documented. Just as the M1 Garrand helped win for us because of its fire power compared to a bolt gun. I don't blame them from ripping off a sound design , but to celebrate him for what he had a hand in making, is to me odd. I will not take any thing away from it , the AK 47 works for what it was meant to do & does it with a inexpensive design , which is why its so prevalent around the world , more than it being a precision weapon . Another thing you should think about is they (Russa ), made up more crap for propaganda then we will ever know . What is true or made up , including who really made the design , to me , is suspect.

Hammer spring my be upside down or as said the leg may not have been in the slot or grove in the trigger pin. The hammer pin on STD AR15/M16 is held in place with a spring detent with in the hammer assembly. I have seen them broken or weak .

Just waiting for my release agent & Geissele trigger, to complete this test . At least @ 100 yards. Figure to fire same test ammo with same trigger & then change triggers & see what difference it makes . Just don't tell Van from Mecharmor Defense I put a scope on the 16" & don't have one of his charging handles on it yet . <dontknow>

some photos of the fitment shims & clay for testing . Notice how the clay spreads to the sides of the lower,Epoxy should do the same ,hopefully to reduce side play.

I got an email from them with 80% carbon fiber lowers with the jigs to set them up for $ 89