survivalshop

I agree, the orange insert in the front & white out line is a good general sight combo . I would like to try the fiber optics also , would be great for hunting with iron sights.

Finally got my VLtor flash suppressor in & on . I had to remove the Vtac hand guard & gas block of course to be able to put the barrel in the vice blocks . No room on this 16" to clamp any thing on with out removing the hand guard . It all went back very easy . Just re-loc tighted the screws & all was lined up . It did change the sound level or the perceived sound level from the shooters perspective .

Nothing wrong with making them DPMS compatible or for that matter Armilite compatible . There does seem to be more of the DPMS type out there ,probably because of Magpul mags ,but that may change if Magpul See's a demand enough for them . Not totally sure ,but I think all 308 type lowers ,in the DPMS format, are made from Billet . Not sure why ,you might want to look into that one . My DPMS & CMMG lowers are both made from Billet.

Ya ,I had a old WWII Remington Rand & wish I had it back .

I really like my new Lee hand priming tool . Its got a little catch to hold the top cover on ( the old one always came loose ) It seems not to like WW SP primers , they get kinda half cocked in the feed shoot once in a while (twenty year old primers maybe ? ) ,but the rem. worked good through it & CCI's . I decided to retire my old one & not repair it & just get another new one so as to have one set up for large and one for small .

That's a good nick name for her. <thumbsup>

I guess I'm old fashioned , I use the so called Wally world type also . My newest came from Gander Mountain ,one of the nice cases with every size in the world in them . ( a Christmas present from my daughter) I have a one piece aluminium rod for 22 cal. ( AR's) I have never liked steel rods. The aluminium ones are inexpensive & will not harm any barrel . IMO I have a early carbon rod set for my shot guns & one of the brass threaded inserts came unglued . Maybe the newer ones may be better.

How bad is the jam nut ? Bad enough for the rifle to be out of action ? The only thing you will be able to find to replace it ,is there nut , unfortunately. Mild heat will be the way to unstick the loc tite applied to the assembly. If you need my wrenches , let me know & I will send them out to you to use. IM me if needed . If you do any work to that upper , make sure you also have the vice block for it . If it was lined up improperly from Fulton ,I would send it back with a note you tried to fix it your self . If you didn't take it off , they will be able to see it was assembled that way & got past there final inspection. That's there bad & I believe they should make it right . I also believe they are a good co. & will make it right.

I had PRI custom cut one of there's for my 20" . Not sure if it does any thing for flash suppression ,but it does a fine job as a brake/comp.. Oh, its loud , but not as loud as my 16" with out any thing .

The Millett TRS 1 that I just got is the first scope of its kind I have ever used & I have a lot to learn about the mil dot system . It is easy to set up , sight in & nice optics & just love the lighted mil dot's ,another first for me . Even though the battery that came with it was DOA ,I picked up a new one for under $5.00. Another thing is it came with out any paper work what so ever . I went to Millett"s web sight & down loaded it . I also see a future for one of Millet's DM scope ,I also looked through one a friend had & really liked it . It may get a home on my 16" AR 308.

I use the Uncle Mikes bandoleer type holster with the flap ( flap can be removed if you want ) for my scoped Anaconda & it works quite well keeping the elements out . I spent almost an entire day in the rain last year & the holster kept the scope & revolver nice & dry. I hunt in Ohio ,so it can go from nice to wet & cold to snow & colder in the same day .

Those are not bad at all . Looks like the ding at near the case mouth is from the barrel extention & the ones on the side are from the ejection port window ,before the deflector. She will loosen up & that pattern may go away.

I've been looking at the, JP tactical fire control kit , for the 20 " rifle . Has any one tried it ? It comes with trigger, hammer, disco., & springs . Much better price than those drop in one piece units . I will send the 16" TG. to Bill Springfield , he has done good work for me on other rifles & my Remington 870 mag. DSG (designated slug gun) I use for deer hunting. That Remington trigger was 7.9# & came back 4.2# & man it is clean & crisp . Made a big difference in grouping .

OK , I put the Millett TRS1 on the 16" just to see what it would do with the scope & its almost nine pound trigger . I was quite impressed . I know I could do a lot better with a good trigger & will switch the scope or get some ting just for the 16 " I will have to also get a trigger for the 20" now that its complete , but not bad with the 20" ether . I have a program some where on this PC & when I get a chance I will use it to see what size of group these are . The dots are 3 ".

My Millett TRS1 came in & I was just going to put it on the 20" ,but I am going to put it on the 16" for some target testing of this bbl. tomarrow. I will then put it where its going to stay on the 20". I will post some photo's , even though I still haven't done any thing to the trigger.

I got my new Lee hand priming tool & see they changed the connecting rod has been re engineered a little . I can get a replacement ($ 2.50 )for the the one on my older on & keep one for sm. primers & one for lg. primers. I did notice another thing , they changed the number for the shell holder for 9 mm . From # 6 (my older one ) to a # 19 for the newer ones . I also see that the same (new ) # 19 is also used for 40S&W & others like 10mm . I can not fit a 40 S&W in my old # 6 shell holder for my old auto prime , so how do you get a good fit with that new # 19 SH with all those other case sizes . I find that odd.

Your DPMS barrel is probably stainless steel. I don't think DPMS makes a chrome lined barrel . I know a lot of people want them to. You will have to try 7.62 to see if your build likes them . Some DPMS barrels have tight chambers for better accuracy & that will determan what you can & can not use.

Well, that would depend on what you want to use it for . That price range puts you up with some of the top of the line name brands . If that's what you are looking for . In a nut shell ,they are all good . I know you are looking for names ,but I build my own & I think you will get some here who have there favorite brand for one reason or the other . You can read here & other forums ,you will find the AR 308's just work . It has a lot to do with the cartridge they are shooting.

If you are talking about older barreled rifles , than yes . You also have to know that Fulton Armory brands all there barrels 308 , but say you can shoot one or the other. Now there are some tight chamber 308's that may not like the 7.62 NATO type ammo . Some manufacturers say not to shoot one or the other & not mix.( They also say not to shoot hand loads ,now that's a laugh , I wouldn't do much shooting ) To this day I have shot just about every 308 I have ever owned with both 308 & 7.62 & never had a problem . Over thirty years of shooting and twenty of that I was a class I & III FFL .

I have a FA.,20" HB on my DPMS build & as said a 16" HB on my CMMG /SI Defence build . I can tell you the 20" is a tack driver & will give target results when I get my Millett TRS1 on this week. The 16" will probably never see a scope on it , its a blaster & prints good enough with the Magpull sights @ 100 yrds to make me like being on the right end of the barrel . Both are very good barrels . I'm sure there are better out there , but you can't go wrong with them . They have potential with the right shooter & ammo.

They also don't mention if they had a scope on it to get those results.( if they did I missed it ) .68@ 100yrds., with Iron sights ? Kinda miss leading & you know there was some trigger work done for that test rifle or all of them . Not trying to take any thing away from the AP 4 , I just don't trust the guns that gun writers get to test as being a run of the mill , that you & I get .

DD has a mid length,I think you can get it for the DPMS bbl. nut system . You will have to ask them or some one here will speak up. I know from wanting a mid length gas system ,there are not many out there in mid length for 308 . https://www.danieldefense.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=21

<thumbsup>

Went back to the range today to test the alterations I made to the bolt catch. All mags worked flawlessly. The Pmags were left unloaded since the last outing ,just to see if I had the same problems as the first test. The Pmags worked with any round count was put into them. Found some interesting spec's on my two different lowers. I took measurements of the height in which the bolt catch is raised with both lowers compared . Now that the bolt catch is working on last round with different mags & ammo . I feel it is good to go . Here are some measurement between the DPMS &the CMMG lowers. DPMS Pmag --0.449 " Cprod.--0.399 " DPMS --0.501 " CMMG Pmag --0.424 " Cprod.--0.378 " DPMS---0.431 " The differences in the height in which the bolt catch is raised with the mag. follower must be manufacturing tolerance differences. Same three mags were used . I also noticed a big difference on how much play is in the bolt catch , as far as fit in the lower. The DPMS has a great deal of slop compared to the CMMG that has very little . Of course this 16" upper is on the CMMG . The play in the DPMS may be a broken bolt catch pin . It does have a DPMS pin in there . I will have to remove it to inspect . I have a SI Defence s/s pin for it .