Jgun

Ive got a Galil ARM .308. It does exactly the same thing. What I've been told is that they are way over gassed. The idea (as explained to me) is that they are supposed to function under all circumstances, with all ammo, no matter how dirty they are. It is a Kalashnikov design after all. I don't shoot mine much for just this reason. I've been told by people that if I were to reload and fire the reloads in a different gun (AR ?) the case would fire form itself and remove the dent that the Galil puts in the side right in the middle of the case, but I have no interest in trying that. I am of the opinion that mine is denting the case as the carrier comes back and the ejector pushes the left side of the case so that the case impacts the back of the ejection port as it ejects, but I may be mistaken. I have been told that I should try to modify the gas system so that it bleeds off more gas, but I have no wish to modify this pre ban Galil. The good news for your buddy is that .223 is much cheaper to shoot and discard than .308 is. Your friend might want to try reduce charge reloads (if he reloads) although that might have a negative effect on accuracy.

Ive got a 44 mag Vaquaro, and IMO the Blackhawk lends itself better to the caliber than the Vaquaro does, although the Vaquaro, due to it's lighter weight, carrys and handles better. I've also got a Freedom Arms .454, so I know what your talking about with regards to the heft of these big revolvers. I find that the big SA's carry much more comfortably in a shoulder rig than a belt holster, if your planning too wear it for long periods of time. Of course I'm under 200 lbs, so your results may be different if your bigger. I'd also be interested in the Randall. Is that a currantly produced knife?

I'm geting close to finishing this one. I still need to finish chamber it and install the rear sight thats in the mail. I picked up the GI walnut stock to use until I see the JAE (which was the first part I ordered for this project over a year ago) I may refinish that, but at least I've got something to use to function test it.

Thanks, I'm on the hunt.

Anyone know what receiver set and handguard, Jense/Proof research are using on their large platform AR's?

Nice indoor range. I'm surprised that you guys can get away with the plugs, when I shoot rifle indoors I need to double up with plugs and muffs (I'm trying to preserve what hearing I still have left)

Nice looking setup there SD. I'm surprised you were able to let it go. I need a good scope myself. I've used and really like that nightForce.

I've been talking to members on the M14 forum, and have heard some different stories. Not sure if your friends bought their M1's years ago. If you or any other members know of anyone interested in selling one in decent shape, for a good price, please let me know.

I shot my 14.5" MA TEN carbine in a TAC rifle match last weekend, and when I reviewed the vidieos, I was surprised by (and others that watched the video have commented on) the lack of apparent recoil in the video. This gun is presently the heaviest AR I have (until my long range is finished). It has got to be 11 lbs with a loaded mag. Now, I know that I could swing the gun faster if I were shooting a small platform gun, and would likely be faster on my splits between shots, but what I am finding is that if I want to shoot the .308 fast, the greater weight coupled with the compact size (so the weight is close to me) seems to be the best configuration for me. I am of the opinion that if I were to have the same gun, but 3 lbs lighter, I would not shoot it as well in these types of matches. Of course, if you were shooting matches with long runs between target arrays, the heavier gun might become a liability. I am beginning to understand that (for me) the large platform ARs are more versitile when they are a little heavier, than when they are built to be as light as a small platform gun. Of course I'm not the heaviest guy out the (180 lbs) so maybe the bigger shooters don't find this to be the case.

That is a trade off. It seems that you can't have it both ways. My Kaiser with the 18" CF barrel is almost 2 lbs lighter than my Mega 14.5" carbine, and I definitely notice the greater recoil of the Kaiser. Part of that may be that the Carbine has the BABC and the Kaiser has a comp made by the barrel maker (ABS), but I think it's more a result of the extra weight. I guess it all depends what your going to do with the gun. I'm thinking that if you were doing some hunting that required lots of tracking, with maybe one or two shots to bring down your game, the TAC-10 might be just the ticket, but maybe not for run and gun stuff, it is pretty though.

I came across this listing today, though I'd post it because it's got the best pictures I've seen so far of one of these. Looks impressive, but I don't know if I'd go $4,300 for an AR, maybe if it came with a suppressor. I realy like the detail on the receiver, and that CF handguard looks pretty nice as well, wonder how much it weighs, and how well it shoots? www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=301650311

I'm not knowledgable on the 1903's. I'm just now becoming interested in the Garands. I wish there was some way to see the gun you're going to get when ordering from the CMP. The idea of sending off money and hoping for the best has not worked out well for me in the past with regards to buying guns sight unseen.

I've used the MUR uppers (with FA) for all of the small platform builds I've done for myself. I've heard that the Rainier billit uppers are as good or better, but every time I start a new build, and pick up a new (different brand) lower, I do a test fit with one of my existing assembled MUR uppers, and the fit is always so good, I'm reluctant to order a different upper, that I have not tried. I've also heard that the Mega small platform uppers are excellent, and I've been ectremely happy with the fit of the MURs on the Mega lowers that I have. I have not assembled a gun using the Splkes upper or lower so can't say how the Mega or MUR would fit that, but I don't think you'll be disappointed with the MUR, Mega or the Rainier upper, just not sure how good the fit will be on your Splkes lower, as I posted before, I think that if you call Rainier, they'll be able to answer that, and if I'm not mistaken, don't they offer all of those uppers?

As stated above, an AR will be one of the easiest guns you will ever put together. That said, as with all things mechanical there is always that bolt that is out of spec that doesn't want to thread on, or the roll pin bore that is not drilled straight. If you select brand name parts, and have a reasonable level of mechanical ability, it won't be too much work to put one together. If you stick with a standard cal (.308), select the proper buffer/spring to match your stock, and buy a matched barrel and bolt from a reputable company, (Rainier?), I think, that as stated above, You will be able to build a gun of better quality than you can buy for the same money. Figure around $2K. Now you can buy a quality factory built gun from Armalite or DPMS for a few hundred less, but then you'll end up taking parts off to put on those parts that you will eventually decide you'd rather have on it. As far as having function problems, that should not be an issue as long as you don't go with inferior parts or try to build/assemble something that hasn't been done before(is that even possible?)

Just out of curiosity, you say you didn't assemble the upper. By any chance was it a factory built BCM upper? If so maybe they'd be wiling to work with you as far as replacing it? If not, why don't you either give Rainier or Spikes a call and ask what uppers will mate up well. I'm sure that they both will know, but Spikes may not be willing to recommend any upper but theirs, I'm sure John at rainier would be able (and willing) to tell you which of the ones he sells will fit your lower. It's a little late for this, but on the chance that someone did assemble it with red locktite, did you try to heat the nut a little with a torch when it didn't want to loosen initially?

Yeah, but just as with a couple ounces adding up to a pound heavier gun if you don't pay attention while selecting parts for a gun build, on a motorcycle, a few pounds heavier here or there when choosing parts, adds up to a bike that handles and performs very differently. We're not talking about adding 20 lbs to your HD dresser, but if you switch out stock wheels for the lightest ones available a sport bike will handle better, brake in a shorter distance and accelerate faster. All depends what your intended use for the bike is, just like trying to build a lighter gun. If You have to carry it, along with pack and ammo all day every day. saving a pound with no reduction in durability is a very good thing, if your building something to shoot from a rest or bench, extra weight can actually help accuracy because of recoil reduction.

beautiful M1! One of the guys came out to the tactical rifle match on Sunday and shot a Garand in Heavy metal, very well I might add. After the match I asked and he let me try it out. What a blast to shoot, I get a kick out of those enbloc clips ejecting. I'm now on the hunt for one. It will be the first gun in a long time that I'll buy instead of build. Survivalshop, how does yours group at 100?

I "think" the gist of the instructions from krieger are that you are trying to remove (by shooting) the surface roughness left from rifling the barrel. Their barrels are lapped, but that only takes cae of the lands, the grooves will smooth out from the friction of the bullets going down the barrel, but you want to remove the copper that is deposited or else each subsequent bullet will add another layer. If, on the other hand, you clean between shots for the first several, the barrel gets burnished and is not so prone to picking up copper. Sounds good on paper. I've done this method on expensive barrels, just because it's recommended, but have no idea what would have happened if I hadn't. I recall reading the opinion of a respected barrel manufacturer, he said, that barrel break in is BS. His opinion was that every barrel will never shoot better than it does new, and that every rd through the barrel creates wear, and it's just a matter of what rd, what barrel material, what powder/bullet, how hot it's loaded, that will determine the life of the barrel. If you really want to explore this, go on one of the bench rest forums and do a search on barrel break in/ barrel life. Those guys really push their rds fast and with the MV and the calibers that they shoot, they are really the cutting edge when it comes to accurate barrel life.

I don't know what barrel you're using, if chrome lined I don't think I'd worry about breaking it in. If it's a match barrel you might want to take a look at Krieger barrels website. They have a barrel break in procedure listed, which also gives some explanation for what they say you are trying to accomplish by the procedure. http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_In__Cleaning-c1246-wp2558.htm

I'm surprised you didn't have them do a left side charging handle. Are you a lefty?

After posting it, I noticed in the description that it says it adjusts from the front with a hex screw, but I'm not clear on how you use the pin to lock it? Have you tried this GB? I'm sure this is one of those things that once you see it the light bulb goes off and you say "why didn't I think of that". If it doesn't freeze up from carbon after using it for a while, I could see how this would be a handy set up to put on a gun that you switch back and forth between suppressed and unsuppressed use, periodically.

Although this is not .308 AR specific, these new adjustable gas blocks might be helpful to some of you guys building with .625" and .750" GB ID barrels. I'm not quite sure how that pin is used to adjust it though, Maybe a screwdriver slot? http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=53466/sku=100-008-858/Product/AR-15-AR10-ADJUSTABLE-GAS-BLOCK?sp_rid=Mjg4ODIwMTQ4NTAS1&sp_mid=4274612&spMailingID=4274612&spUserID=Mjg4ODIwMTQ4NTAS1&spJobID=129053563&spReportId=MTI5MDUzNTYzS0

When I see stuff like this it makes me proud to be someone involved with firearms and those that build them. the amount of engineering and effort that goes into something like this !!!!. Also makes me wonder how anyone in their right mind could think that by passing legislation, they will be able to restrict/prevent gun ownership by such a talented and driven group as the gun people of this country. Only thing they could accomplish would be to put a lot of extremely skilled/talented pro gun people out of work, and create a blackmarket the likes of which they have never seen, bigger by far than what they dealt with during prohibition.

I think that I will need a written guarantee that no part of the proceeds of my receiver purchase will go to the party credited with making that speech, before I will feel comfortble about purchasing one. I know it says Palmetto on it, I just need to know that they aren't paying anything for the rights to use the phrase. Of course, if they have done it without getting approval, and they should be forced to stop selling them, the ones that are already sold will become instant collectors items.

I have a friend that had one, I never got to try it though. As i recall he sold it. Are there high cap mags available for it? You say you were filling out form 4's, that has nothing to do with the HK right? I will ask my friends opinion of the gun if you wish. BTW, I've got the Kriss (semi auto, long barreled version) I may have posted info on it, so don't want to post repeat info. If you're thinking about one, PM me and I'll share my experience with you. I actually like it, but, much like my Saiga 12, it took a little "fine tuning" to get it to where I'm happy with it.