N Jensen

Here are few photos of the my LR rifle action cycling, you can see the muzzle blast forming, gas venting from the colt carrier. These photos came from a series of photos and I just picked out the most interesting ones.

The rifle really looks nice, I like to hear about the scope as well.

Sounds like the ammo is loaded hot, whenever the extractor slips over the rim and one needs a cleaning rod to knock the case out means to much pressure. I would suggest a couple of things to try, seat the bullets a little deeper say .010 to .015. It gives the bullet a little running start before getting to the lands. Or remove the bullet, reweigh the charger 1g to 1.5g lighter charge, reseat the bullet. Lastly, sell the ammo to someone who has no issues with their rifle shooting the ammo.

I think everyone gave you some very good advice. The only thing I could add is to check the firing pin to see if it is below flush of the bolt face when it is still fully fwd. Before the cam retracts into the carrier. It should below the face and not just even with the face. I have heard of long firing pins and he had several slam fires before figuring it out. I load single rounds a lot about 40 or so during a match, but never had a slam fire.

I think Tiger Woods must be thinking the same thing then, LOL

Accuracy kind be a loose term at times. I tired to explain to friend that accuracy has a lot to do with what you are willing to accept. A 1 MOA rifle is fairly easy to get too and to shoot almost every time. 1/2 MOA a little harder, bedding, laping lugs higher quaility barrel, shooting groups 1/2 MOA groups take a little more work. 1/4 MOA rifles even harder, one can build a gun trying to get a 1/4 or less and rarely do it. But we keep trying because we like shooting. I been shooting HP for many years, I do not always shoot nice little groups all the time, I remember more bad groups then good ones. It's just nice to get a picture of one and stick on the wall.

I shot this 10 shot group at 300yds with a LR 6.5 with iron sights. The picture isn't the best as I took it looking through my spotting scope. It was during a 800 point agg match, timed fire 70 sec time limit. There was shot a little high out of the group right on the line, just wished I had it more centered up in the x-ring.

The newest version of the 155 MK I believe comes with a plastic tip and new BC of .519 , which is real good. Older version should cost a little less, but it depends on where you buy them. If you are not shooting very far, the 168 would work just fine, just shoot a lighter charge of powder.

I should asked in the last post your thought on barrel length, are you in the 18inch fan club, Stiffer is better. Or a little longer 24 to 26 inch or longer. Might as well stire up that subject up again.

I'm just curious on the bullet you plan to use, a 123 or 142, or something else. Also shooting rounds from the mag or single loading. If single loading one could move bullet fwd and add more powder. The 123 being a .500 BC or so can be shot mag length and have plenty of velocity to go a 1K. It just something to think about. Also if you try F class, a muzzle break isn't allowed. Anyway, I was just curious.

For the person who is building a M1A, when your ready to glass bed, install gas system, set the timmimg, re work the rear sight, and whatever else you want to know. I can walk you through, not hard to do, a little more work than glassing a bolt gun.

Anyone shooting a 260 rem (not a bolt gun) and if so, what loads are you using? I'm working on 142MK with H4350 at 41.0g and 9 1/2 rem primmer. About .015 off the lands (single firing, not from the mag). Need to test it yet, but thats where I'm at right now. I have settled on 123Mk mag length, 42.5g H4350 and 9 1/2 primmer. Just curious what loads you are using, thats all.

I have a used 26 inch in a 6mm wildcat that was on my LR. One can make into a 243, the gas port is moved fwd 2 inches as well. Send it you for 50 bucks.

No need to move the knobs until your ready to bore sight it. I do it all the time. Pick something out about 100yds away through the bore of the rifle, tail light, something on on a roof, light pole. Anyway, just line up the bore on it, and without moving the upper, look through the scope and see where it is. Adj the scope is backwars, turning the knob to the left moves the cross hair to the right same for vertical up is moving cross hair is down. Repeat until the cross hair lines up in the center of what you see in the bore, then go shoot. Have fun.

Is it possible that the brass is not new but has been reloaded several times at max loads? If so the primmer pocket gets bigger over reloading of hot loads and eventually the primers will seat very easy without much effort at all.

The tipped 168 went from .463 to 535 BC, so I would think they would be good for 1,000 yds when in the past they were not. They also very close to the 175 tipped bullet. Probably shove the 168 down the barrel a little quicker than the 175 as well. The LR M118 is pretty warm load and will cycle the BCG very fast. I bent my bolt stop when shooting them. The reason why they are so hot is because the LC puts a tar like glue on the bullet sealing it into the neck of the case. This makes the powder burn more and produce more pressure to break the seal. The pressure curve goes up very quickly. One way to prevent this and help lower the pressure is to place the round in a bullet seatter and break the seal, just seat the bullet a little deeper, say .015

I would think that a slower cycling BCG would be more accurate in the long run. I have a new 260 cal and 26 inch barrel with a std gas port opening. Right now the BCG cycles so fast it can catch the empty as it goes fwd. I put the upper on hold until after the holidays is over. I plan on getting a hyd buffer and an adjustable gas block. I already have a std buffer spring, heavy, and an light one from a AR 15. I was thinking of the AR 15 spring, hyd buffer, and turn the gas off and slowly open it until the BCG cycles, plus a half turn. Then shoot groups again.

In Fargo, there is not any snow so far and the temp was eight at 35 today. I can;t complain. going to build a 10/22 this week. Glass bed a rifle next week. If you r tange isn't to far away, I could help you with it.

Don't worry about it. Just start a new question or thought.

Sir, 50 to 1000 yds, sounds so cool! Love to be able to shoot sometime in the future ths summer. I sent you a private messgae with my email address. Neil

I might not live in Min, but in Fargo on the western side. 600yd range in Grand Forks. Neil

Funny, I was thinking the same thing.

I was considering of trying to put together a M110 copy on a DPMS upper and lower. A3 upper and lower Krieger Barrel A-1 Stock with A2 butplate (non adjustable but is the right length) 2 stage trigger Question is on the following parts, best parts to get. 4 rail hand guard to buy, I believe it should be 12 inches long. Gas block Front sight Detachable carrying handle Goal is either having it capable to shoot with a scope or with iron sights and be legal for NRA High power matches. Any ideas would be great.

Can't go wrong with a 30-06, from 1906 to present, to include WW I, WW II, Korea, and into Vietnam. Chambered in semi auto, full Auto and bolt action rifles, famous rifles like the 1903 Springfield, the M1, and the BAR. Probably has killed more animals and people than anything other cartridge ever in the free world. Having a 30-06 is like owning history, everyone has one, everyone has ammo for one, and every store has for sale or has the ammo for it. Just how could there be question on this!! 30-06 is the king. Neil

I had mine what seems like forever, I put it into a McMillan stock 2004 or so. It's a double lugged M1A with torque screws for the action. The double lug and McMillan stock was highlight and final development for accuracy in HP matches. I have glass bedded standard receivers, rear lugged and rear lug with torque screw and double lugged. When properly done, they all shoot about the same, barrel choices is about the only thing that makes one better than the other. The rear sight being absolutely tight without any play and still move is the most important accuracy improvement over anything else besides a good bedding job. If you can see play, any at all is like putting on a minute or more of sight adjustment without turning the knobs. Once built correctly they shoot very well long time.