Well, I finally scrounged up all the tools necessary to install my JP VTAC free-float tube, and with the weekend approaching I decided it was high time to get it together. So I went to the shop today, and there the adventure began. What follows is a how-to of sorts for those brave souls who dare attempt similar constructs. Be sure to lock your receiver tightly into a suitable receiver jig before commencing the following steps. I use DPMS' excellent 'Claw' device. #1. Removing the gas block. This is a really simple task on the LR-308, as there are 2 set screws that attach the gas block/gas tube assembly to the barrel. Simply loosen the 2 screws, be sure not to lose them, and remove the gas block by pulling it down the barrel. #2. FFT Removal. Removing the free float tube happens in 2 parts, removing the main tube, and removing the barrel nut. To remove the main tube, simply unscrew the main tube using a strap wrench. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install7.jpg The two parts of the FFT are now seperate, and as seen here. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install2.jpg Removing the barrel nut will mean heating it with a heat-gun for about 7-8 minutes to soften up the Lock-tite that the factory applies to it. Be careful that you try to heat evenly around the nut, as you don't want to spot-heat it and risk messing up your receiver jig. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install10.jpg Once it's hot, you're ready to remove the barrel nut with a suitable wrench. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install9.jpg Don't touch it with your bare hands, it will be hot for a while. I cooled mine off with cool running water right after removal. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install12.jpg #3. We're ready to install the VTAC!! The VTAC is composed of 3 primary parts, where the factory FFT was only 2. You have: The main FFT housing, a barrel nut, and a larger receiver nut. There are some smaller components as well but they don't play in right now. I will mention that I did not do several things that the JP manual recommends, like removing the Teflon from my receiver threads, and using lock-tite to hold the receiver nut in place. I left the Teflon on the receiver threads so that using lock-tite wouldn't be necessary. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install14.jpg Carefully lubricate the receiver threads and thread the JP receiver nut onto the receiver. This took quite some effort but the threads were well lubricated and I made sure I reversed directions frequently to avoid letting the threads bind. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install15.jpg You may have noticed that at this point in the installation, my upper is NOT in the claw, but carefully wrapped and upside-down in the vise. I did this so that when I got the gas-tube hole in the receiver nut aligned with the receiver, I could use a straight rod ( properly sized ) to maintain alignment while tightening the barrel nut (next step). #4. The barrel nut goes on quite simply. The pictures should make it self explanitory. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the barrel nut. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install16.jpg [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install17.jpg Thread the barrel nut into the receiver nut. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install18.jpg Use a suitable wrench to tighten the barrel nut, JP recommends 35 to 80 ft/lbs of torque. My boss had run off with the torque wrench so I simply tightened it 'till my neck-hair stood up and my sphincter clinched and the voices in my head screamed "STOP!". That's perfect. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install20.jpg As you tighten the barrel nut, be sure to watch the location of the recesses in the barrel nut, you don't want to tighten it up too much and block off the gas-tube hole with one of the small lugs, but if you do and it's getting in the way, you can grind off the offending lug with a dremel. #5. Now that you have your barrel nut and receiver nut properly aligned and tightened, it's all very easy from here. Check your gas-tube to be sure that it goes into the receiver properly, and that nothing is misaligned. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install21.jpg If you end up having your gas-tube in the receiver even slightly crooked, it could cause some ugly things to happen when the bolt slams home, so check it well. #6. Now that you know all is well, the only thing left is to install the main body of the tube. Slide the tube over the receiver nut, making sure the body is oriented correctly so that all the screw holes line up correctly. Screw the receiver tube into place, making sure that the 4 short screws go in the lowermost holes, and the 2 longer screws go in the top. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install22.jpg #7. Reinstall your gas block/tube, check alignment a final time, then re-tighten the GB set screws. [img width=800 height=600]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/jm_cross/FFT_Install23.jpg #8. Put the upper back on the lower, and give yourself a pat on the back. Your FFT is done! This took me about 1 1/2 hours to do, and that includes the heating time, running around looking for stuff, etc. With tools and everything in place, you can do it in 1 hour flat. How does it look?