Robocop1051

DPMS also makes a 1" stock extention that would work. http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/stock-forend-parts/buffer-tube-parts/buffer-tube-hardware/ar-15-buttstock-extender-prod5559.aspx Add the extender and you don't have to modify the stock.

My new Nightforce, which should be called "Devourer of CR2032's"

That was the plan. I brought the cheap stuff just to get on paper. The good ammo was for bragging rights. I wish I had something more to show you guys. I still have yet to add one drop of oil to my gun. It is bone dry and still looks brand new. I cleaned my rifle with just a paper towel. I love NiB treated parts!

Harris HBLS 9"-13"

A comfortable grip is a very inexpensive modification that'll make a world of difference. I love when guys say, "I'm ok with a standard A2 grip". Then they shoot a rifle with a Falcon or MIAD and they say, "ohhhhh!"

I hate Battlecomp's!!! I really hate that they're so damned expensive.

The BADASS comes with a stainless detent pin. Definitely use that one. What grip are you using? Does the safety wobble? Or is it just loose when shifting? If it wobbles, either the safety or the lower might be out of spec. If it's just loose, stretching the spring is just a bandaid that won't last long. First make sure your current grip is tightened down really good. If it's still loose try another grip, or drop a VERY small piece of metal inside the grip as a lift for the spring. I used a piece of a wire hanger for a similar issue. The BADASS is a very tight fit. It should be just fine for your rifle (assuming the receiver is within spec).

I went out to sight in my rifle with the new NF scope on it. The day was filled with nothing but rookie mistakes. I don't even know where to start. I guess the first, but lightest blunder, was I forgot to bring good target ammo. I had loaded up a shit ton of ammo and THOUGHT I grabbed some SM 168gr.... I get to the range and all I have is 147gr NATO... Grrrrr I start at 25yrds and get my bearings. I quickly zero in and move out to 100. Within a few shots I'm right on the money.... Kinda. I can't pull my group in tighter than 4"!!! WTF!?!? In a fit of frustration I close my scope covers and the whol scope tilts.... <---- dummy forgot to tighten the scope mounts. I was so excited to hunt invisible badguys in my house that I never bothered to tighten my scope down beyond finger tight. Get up, grab a wrench out of the truck, and fix my dumbass mistake. I got back to my zero pretty quickly and soon was ringing steel with GREAT ease. Max range that day was 200, so I was having a field day. At 100 yards I was at 1moa or less. My trigger isn't really designed for target shooting, but it performed ok. I had a couple 1/2" shots that made me happy. Due to the first half of the day, and the horrible patterns on the paper, all evidence of the shooting was destroyed shortly afterwards. I'll go out again this week and shoot some good ammo. Hopefully I'll have some paper to brag about then. Guess who has a LOT to learn about illuminated scopes? There's really only one thing to learn, "turn off your effin scope!" Yup, dummy left his scope on AGAIN. That's two batteries dead already. I'm buying those POS batteries off the chinese dudes on e bay from now on. It's getting to expensive to buy them from the stores. I had a great day shooting. Gotta love rich friends who own private ranges and invite you to come out and play. My old man picked up a marlin stainless 45-70, so I plinked with that for a while too. By the end of the day he agreed to let me work on the marlin. I'm thinking some fiber optic sights would look good on there.

I never needed THAT much glass, but the glass I picked was the best I could find.... 2.5-10x36 on a (titanium/alum) Ultralite mount

This is sounding like a sweet build (and vaguely familiar, lol). Get the 20MOA mount. If you push to 1000, you'll need that +20 to adjust you scope out far enough. Otherwise you'll just be playing the hold-over game. I'm just outside of downtown Sac. I have family in Lincoln and Folsom. You have that range out by the reservoir that goes back pretty far. I don't remember exactly the distance, but I remember there was a road to the furthest targets. I only shot there once. One of our members pointed out a range in Dunnigan (about 40 mins north on I-5). He says they have a 1k. I also know that Jackson/Ione range has a 1k... If you're willing to make that drive. Here's my little teaser...

I had the ACE ARFX, and then swapped it for the ARFX-Entry. Both mine held up to the .308 just fine. I only swapped because the LOP was too long for me on the full stock. My advice... Contact both companies (Ace and Midway) and see if they'll replace the butt pad for you. Chances are, you'd end up with two!!

I have no issues with the CS spring. I recently changed from a rifle length stock to a carbine length. Previously I used a hydraulic buffer, now I have a CAR-10 heavy buffer. I was worried that my CS spring wouldn't work with the heavy buffer, based solely on Clint's recommendation. Yesterday I fired 80 rounds of 147gr NATO with flawless performance. Every shot cycled and every magazine locked back the bolt when empty. The life of the CS spring may be limited, but it works for me. I don't plan on replacing mine anytime soon. The combination of the rifle length gas system, tungsten buffer and CS spring is really sweet. I can pop that stick all day with no discomfort.

Putting away baddies always feels good

Wrist injury huh? I guess you can love yourself too hard. Take it easy on that thing, it has a shelf life. No need to hurt yourself. Lol

It's worse than California?!?!

I've done 130 on my current motorcycle. The Honda 1300cc does it without even trying. The best I ever did on a BMW 1150 was about 120. that thing was gutless. I did 140 in a patrol car (Ford Crown Vic). Lights and siren the whole way down the freeway in the middle of the night... I also did about 160 in a tricked out Mustang GT... But that was in a life before LE. ;)

Spit always worked well.... Lol Many of us soak the moving parts in full synthetic motor oil. I use some race quality Mobile1 for mine. I recently started using FrogLube on some of my guns. That stuff is really nice.... Smells good too! Fire Clean is another new one that is getting great reviews. I have yet to try it.

I say a thurough rub down on the CH with some 0000 steel wool. If you have a strong/thin tooth brush, like the old military cleaning brushes, you can use that to do the same thing to the inside of the upper receiver.

Forms and fees are exactly the same. All SBR's must be registered to be legal. If you build one, then you will have to send your lower receiver to a shop (there's only like two I know of) that will engrave your lower to be marked as an SBR. BATFE has very specific instructions on how the receiver needs to be engraved. If you buy a pre-assembled rifle, the engraving should be done already.

I like your style!

How do they say it... "A fix for a problem that didn't exist." I think if someone designed a quick release style keymod accessory, then it'd be worth it. The whole point of the concept was for easier modification of accessories.... How often do people change/swap accessories??? If the keymod feels anything like the Troy Alpha rail, I'm out for sure. I didn't care for that at all. (The Troy Alpha VTAC is a different story, and I really enjoy that piece on my 7.62x39 build)

An 18" pencil weight barrel would have been a huge contender for me, had it been available when I bought my barrel. The deciding factor for me then would have been the expected usage of my rifle. For a 1-3 shot group, I have no doubt that the pencil barrel could be a MOA shooter (maybe even sub-MOA if you're lucky). The problem for me would then be, what about the other 17 rounds in my mag? How accurate would the rest of my rounds be out of that super-hot, skinny barrel? If I were building a hunting rifle, then the pencil barrel would've been my choice, hands down! In fact, if I ever build another .308, it would be for hunting, and that might be the exact barrel choice I make. Instead, this last build was designed as mid-range (600 yrds) combat/precision rifle. I needed something a bit heavier for continuous use. Like I mentioned earlier, I get all the benefits of a bull barrel at the weight of a midweight contour. I'm not going to lie. I've heard the horror stories, and was warned by many. Each horror story had similar characteristics, and they were usually a combination of military use, rapid fire and heavy caliber. The way i see it, mil guys can break anything, the cost of .308 ammo will prevent me from too much rapid fire, and this is far from a .50 cal. The only other barrel that would've changed my mind was the FA 16" rifle length barrel. FA discontinued the barrel just before I got my rifle, and finding one for sale proved to be futile. About 2 months after I got my CF barrel, FA announced they were rereleasing the 16".... My heart sunk. To me, that is the perfect barrel. I love my CF barrel, but that 16" would've been my choice from the beginning. Oh, and since 98 brought up the topic... This video always makes me feel better.

CF barrels are lighter, but it's not like what y'all think. I have a 17" custom barrel. It is a bull barrel all the way to the .875 rifle length gas block. Then it is a heavy contour to the threads, matching the diameter of my BABC. My barrel is considerably lighter than a stainless steel barrel, but only if the SS barrel was the same contour. I had planned on a sub 10lbs rifle but my fully loaded rifle weighs in at 12.4 lbs. I estimate that my 17" custom bull/heavy barrel is near the same weight as a 18" mid weight or a 16" HBAR. It is still faaaar from being light, it's just lighter than it would've been had it been all steel. As for barrel life, the guys who made my barrel (Proof Research, out of northern Montana) advised that CF barrel owners could expect up to 15k rounds before losing their zero (depending on how you shoot). The best part is, rather than buy a new barrel, $150 and they rechamber your .308 Win to a .338 Fed. Two guns out of one barrel. A custom stainless barrel will run about $500-$600. A custom CF barrel from Proof Research will run about $950. Factor in th weight savings, and the extended life, and you almost see your money back. I know I will never outlive the life of my barrel.

That's the Wilson Combat T.R.I.M. Rail system. KAC, Noveske, Wilson Combat and Geissele all made very similar modular rail systems. Now they are all adding keymod to their rails too. I'm hard pressed about which one I like more. I'm interested to see what comes out by the end of the year.

The JP Tank brake is supposedly their best brake. The Cooley brake pulls in at a VERY close second. I too have no experience with PRI brakes, but I have to agree that ALL of their product that I do own are phenomenal.