98Z5V

That's not it at all, man. From your posts, it just seemed like you were posting alot of information about the rifle, kinda like from the manufacturer's point of view, but trying to sound like a customer. Almost like an advertisement. That's not a problem, had you been the manufacturer, even. It just looked fishy, and has a "fake" feel to it. Hey, I like the rifle. I almost wish you were the manufacturer. Get the rapport going, get the testing going, we're all in. We welcome people we don't know, all the time here. You are very welcomed here.

I remember watching that one. I think it was on History Channel. Awesome human being, right there. <thumbsup> <thumbsup>

Just copy the link, and paste it directly into the post, man. Should work just fine.

You're right - I was thinking PRS, with it's cheekpiece. :hunter: EDIT - schit, I even looked up the PRS... The UBR is $215 from them.

It's a different part number on the MP website, too, man. Check closely. The cheekpiece on the 308 stock is shorter, so it'll clear the longer charging handle when you pull it back. Cheekpiece is longer on the 5.56 version. DSG will set you up with discounts for FF and EMS, but you'll have to call them to set it up. Register an account with them first, before you call. Then make the call, give them whatever proof they need, and they'll convert the account. Next time you sign in, you'll see the new pricing.

That was funny as hell!!! <lmao>

Damn, I was laughing before, without checking out that link Rob posted. They've got 1,128 of these things in stock. I might pick up several, just because. Won't matter that the logo has been milled out, because they'll all get painted anyways.

Before you purchase, check out Badger Ordnance, too.

That means you got the Barrett!!! :hethan:

Yep - Rob is an addict. <lmao> He's got the automatic order setup for the BADASS for any rifle build, but he neglected to update it to include the new pins. I'll bet he's got it fixed by now...

Exact same one that I have, brother. I love that tool. I like that you can stuff everything inside it, and never lose the little parts. I use that bit to remove military crimps, and it works great. Had a batch that had some weird corrosion in the primer pockets - no idea what the powder was, but it was factory ammo. That primer pocket cleaner made short work of them. That's a great tool. <thumbsup>

Damn, I love that rifle.

When I heard it start to go, I just pushed the pedal down more. <laughs> Figured I might be able to calm it down some, might have been RPM-dependant. Nope. I was about 70-something miles from home, too. Pulling the trailer. I ratchet-strapped that bastard together as tight as I could, topped it off with more ATF, and took off. Couldn't go over 35mph, the noise was just unbearable... <lmao> When in doubt, throttle out! <thumbsup>

$187 from DSG Arms, if you're registered as MIL/LEO with them. That's for the .308AR variant.

Damnit. <laughs>

Seeing how there's a standard AR15 trigger setup in yours, that means the width of the lower is the same width of other lowers, in that area. Based on that, standard safety levers work. Honestly, I'd tell him not to bother with an ambi safety. The universal, proven Go-To on that one is the Battle Arms Development Ambidextrous Safety Selector - the BADASS. Another "honesty" here - even if he spends the time developing an ambi safety, I'll take it out and install a BADASS. Most people will. Do you work for the company? It sure seems like it. Please define your relationship. Not trying to piss in your Cheerios, but it seems like you're pitching alot. If you work for them, just say it. Doesn't change anything with your posts, nothing bad will happen. If you do work for them, and you're hiding that, then it seems rather "Obama" to me.

That broken output housing seats the output bearing. Slightly bent mainshaft that wasn't running straight, mangled that housing. I was shocked - it didn't just crack, it was broken a full 360*. Only thing keeping it on there was a snap ring at the end of the housing.

Well, the "downstream damage" was discovered. When I broke the overdrive housing, and the transfer case almost fell OUT of the truck - going 80, for those that forget... <lmao> Looks like I bent the mainshaft in the transfer case. It finally decided that it didn't want to work well and play well with others, and it fractured the output bearing housing. Just a little crack... I'm a very firm believer that God hates lazy people, so I never try to do schit half-assed. I put everything I have into it. 100% and then some. So, that little crack wouldn't be an easy thing to fix, not at all. I started shopping for boneyard transfer cases, and they were around $500~$750, in some places they wanted "exchange" too - give them my broken stuff AND pay them a hefty sum. I found a pick-a-part place, located a HD version of this t-case from a '99 V8 Durango, and had it out in about an hour. Cost = $173. Cleaned it up, swapped it in, and hoped for the best. Took it on another 80-mph-bombing run. Sum'bitch leaked at all the sealing surfaces. Removed it, tore it all down, resealed everything. The sealant is drying now. We'll see what happens. Might need to get the driveshaft rebalanced...

The thread was 1/2 a year old, and you awakened it... <lmao> :eek:

^^^ What about the pins? Not automatic by now? Just wonderin'... <dontknow>

CACI... Tell us more about YOU. <thumbsup> With the glowing reviews, it MUCH more to your benefit. I'm just sayin...

^^^ Has to piss in someone's Cheerios... <lmao>

Okay, I'm waiting... <thumbsup> :drool:

Yep. Ill lube the pad for the outside of the brass, roll it, then roll that brush in the lube and hit the inside of the necks. They all go into hot water washing after that, and back into the tumbler for Round 2 of the tumbling. <thumbsup>

Are you putting lube on the cases themselves? That needs to be done.