98Z5V

It's all listed in the reloading manuals. Buy more than 1 reloading manual, and cross reference the data. The more you cross reference between different sources, the safer you'll be. The Hornady manual is always good to have (Edition 11 is the latest). Have at least one more. The Speer Manual is CCI primers and Sierra bullets - same company. That's another good one. I have alot of Barnes solid copper projectiles, so I have the Barnes load manual just for those. Just an example.

I love Donut's commentary on shiit. This is epic.

It takes $1.75 in US quarters to convert a pistol caliber carbine to a 3.250" buffer. Been proven, more than a decade ago.

No offense, but your original post in this section is the wrong place to ask it. This section is pretty clear, and it's definition is clear: Compatibility, Troubleshooting and Frequently Asked Questions. This Board is "Read Only" This section used to be Read Only, and it was much better back then. It's for published information that helps people get their gun running. It's not titled "What you need to know" - because you have a question about something that YOU want to know about. Hopefully, this whole thread gets moved someplace where it's more appropriate. Yes, the bolt dimensions are different, and I mentioned something along those lines. Find the thread here about the differences. I can't remember where it's at, but it's a goldmine of information. The search function is your friend. Thanks in advance.

Same here. I'm thinking of converting Starline 6.5 Grendel new brass, just because.

55gr. Not a good powder for the heavies. Rule of thumb - if it's a good powder for 5.56 heavies, it's a good powder for .308 Win heavies.

There's a pretty detailed thread here, with pics, of the differences in the BCGs and bolts. I just don't know where we stashed it.

10 hours ago.

Jason Everman is a badass, all the way through. Timeframe wise, I might have bumped into him in Afghanistan, but wouldn't have know it was him, then -everyone was rocking beards in that place... I'd love to talk to Mat Best. I KNOW he was one of the two guys banging a guitar, and singing a song about alien ass-rape, in a mud hut, when we were refitting after the second valley we went into... He was on that deployment from 2/75, so I know it was him...

Been looking for this one...

Best information is gonna be from Barnes, on those solid copper TSX and solid copper tipped ones, the TTSX. See what they state for minimum velocity, or minimum ft/lbs. What's the minimum for hogs, for ft/lbs of energy? Depends on what kind of hogs you're talking about in your area, more than anything else. On deer, they say it's 1000 ft/lbs of energy, but that not true. You can kill a deer DRT with half that, because it's about shot placement more than anything else. Coyotes, just hit em within what you feel comfortable shooting, and you'll kill 'em. Make a good shot. Here's an example, and how to figure it all out. 12.5" barreled 6.5 Grendel. It runs 2271fps through the chronograph with my handload, loading the Hornady 123 ELD-Match projectile. Hey, not a hunting projectile, but I'd sure pop a coyote with it, or a deer. Or a javelina if it got close enough to smell me. Here's the chart, click it a bunch of times, and it gets bigger, blows up. Now, there's a section in that chart that talks about MPBR - Maximum Point Blank Range. Hold your sights on the target, dead hold, and you can shoot something out to that distance, and get a hit inside a vital zone, PROVIDED you zero the gun for the MPBR Zero distance given. Example on that Grendel I've got is MPBR is 290 yards. MPBR Zero is 247 yards. If I zero the gun for 247 yards, I can dead-hold anything out to 290 yards, and hit it in the vital zone. Another cool thing about that, it calculates your ft/lbs of energy at MPBR. That Grendel is still getting 927 ft/lbs of energy at 290 yards. Would I hunt it and dead hold it, out to 300 yards? Damn right I would. It's math, man. Weaponize math.

It's good that it runs, for sure. Don't worry about where the brass goes, as long as it gets out of your gun, every single time. If it's picking up the next round, and locks back on an empty mag, then very well - it runs. Now, I saw 7 13/16" on your tape measure. 7 10/16" = 7 5/8". You're 3/16" too deep. You have two quarters in there. Each quarter is 0.069" thick. Quarters are hard to destroy, so they'll live happily down in the back of that extension, for just about forever. However, 1/16" - 0.0625, so 3/16" has to equal 0.1875". Those two quarters are 0.069" thick, each, so two are 0.138" overall. Add another 0.069" to that, and you'd have 0.207". Put a 3rd quarter in there. Just test it. You need to recover all of that 3/16" of that extension that you don't need. The extra "too short" of 0.0195" won't make a difference, but it's the way to meet the standard. Give it a shot, literally. Several shots. See what happens.

1hr ago - This is Cargill (bumpstocks), but it shoehorns directly into the ATF Frames and Receivers actions, and the ATF Pistol Brace actions.

Never tried any, so I can't say first-hand. Generally, on other soft point ammo through the longer guns, I have seen torn up tips. Best bet for hunting would be loading up or finding some Barnes solid coppers, either TSX loads ot the TTSX loads (tipped solid copper). Those things will feed in a gas gun no problem, and kill critters DRT. Their loaded ammo line is the VOR-TX ammo. https://www.barnesbullets.com/product/vor-tx-rifle/

I have a 12.5" and a 13.5" that only eat Hornady 150gr FMJ-BT handloads, and they're both accurate out to 400 yards. Maybe more, but that's as far as I've pushed them. Your surplus ammo should be either 147gr or 149gr, so it shouldn't be far off that, and still work.

I have GunPusher John searching for that exact gun in 50 AE for the past several months. Eventually, he'll find it.

Zero... Time for phonecalls, I guess.

That's some damn good Customer Service, right there - VERY well done!!!

^^^ This is also the only reason that I'll use Armaite AR-10 Carbine extensions, or VLTOR A5 extensions. Nothing else, just those two genuine products, and not something labeled "Like the Arma..."...

Either the extension is out of spec, or the Aero M5 lower is. It was screwed in to where it should have been, in the first 2 pics, but barely on the retainer. That doesn't really matter, as long as it catches the retainer, it doesn't matter by how much it catches it. If it keeps it in there, then it's doing it's job. In the second set of 2 pics, it's screwed in too far. So, screwed in to the proper depth, it's 7 13/16" internal depth, and that's counting a correct measurement - I saw it, I get it... That's easy then - that extension is out of spec. 3/16" is ALOT to be over by. Even if 2 quarters down the extension can make that issue go away, it's still not right. This is one of the very few things in the Large Frame World where there actually IS a spec to follow, and it's Armalite's spec for a large-frame AR-10 Carbine Receiver Extension. 7 5/8" internal depth. Not a little more, not a little less, not "close..." 7 5/8" internal.

Risk it.

Dremel chainsaw sharpening bit does a wonderful job of performing this task. Get that pic in here, of where the extension is, compared to the top of the lower receiver. That's the tell-all, right there, on whether it's in there far enough. If it's almost flush, or flush, that extension is out of spec.

Still, that's not an A5 buffer. Conflicting information. "A5 buffer" only means one thing. I run that exact same buffer in my .358 Winchester AR, straight from Clint, because that things needs that weight. Correct - and not even compatible, on a Large Frame AR. Nowhere near hoping to be compatible. It's very specific to VLTOR, and it only has a single purpose - make Marine Corps M16s with rifle stock, recoil identically when fitted with Carbine Recoil Systems. The full A5 system is No Bueno on a Large Frame AR. Every quarter is exactly 0.069" thick. You added 2, so you added 0.138". I'm seeing that measurement in the pic you posted is at 7 13/16" internal depth. That's not normal. That's 3/16" too much internal depth. NOT normal. Screw that thing in another turn - get a pic of where it's at the in the lower receiver. It should be about flush, top of extension, screwed in, to top of receiver.

Screw it in one more full turn.

Looking at the money as the first priority usually involves work - and more money, in the long run - to fix it, and make it run right. That fancy low sticker price that you see is never the bottom line. Never is. Take PSA PA-10s (all variations) for example. JMHO.