98Z5V

This post validates my sig quote... <lmao>

Alot goes into this, besides the 20MOA base. Total adjustability of the scope is enhanced by a larger tube - and it's limited as such, by a smaller tube. That 20MOA base might have you ringing steel at 900 with a 1" tube, and in turn you might not be able to even shoot anything at 200 and less, based on the adjustability of that 1" tube. You can zero for any yardage that's within the adjustability of your scope, but that might render it useless at other ranges. Depends on the scope (total adjustability), the mounts (height over bore), the base (inclination), and the shooter's ability - and that combo has to work together for the overall "goal." Hitting anything approaching 1k yards involves a decent amout of "serious poop," but several things needs to be working together already. You might already know all that, and I'm not meaning to insult in anyway - I'm just tossing this out there for others that read it at a later date. Please take no offense, 'cause I didn't mean any. ;D

DPMS bolt matched to your barrel already, and does it fit in your Young carrier? Run it. DPMS bolt matched to your barrel already, and doesn't fit in your Young carrier? Have them fit it. JP bolt fits in the Young carrier, but not matched to your Barrel? Run the gauges in it, and if it clears your barrel extension, then it's good to go. They mentioned the 30 x DPMS bolts, but have they measured 30 x Armalite bolts? What were the findings of that? Your DPMS bolt fits into the carrier, but it's tight - run it first for a hundred rounds or so and it should loosen up. That's not out of the ordinary. If it doesn't loosen up, but still functions, you might want to consider further testing - like checking the fit with the gas rings totally removed. If it binds like that, with no gas rings - then there's an issue. It's not even worth stretching the gas rings for removal just to test that before you fire it - it goes into the front of the carrier, and if it goes "lock-to-lock" then that's full-cycle for it. You are "Grizzly" on ARFCOM, I take it? If that's not you, then the dude is stalking you and reading your mind/stealing your brainwaves... <laughs>

0.002"... That's a pretty bad interference fit - that is usually intentionally done at a 0.001" clearance for engine parts, and even into the "slightly-over-ten-thou" arena for some things. I've got all the tools to measure something like that, but I never thought of that as a problem for CNC machining - boring that hole on a CNC machine shouldn't be a problem, over such a short distance (as the barrel extension seating area) for such a great taper. That's a serious issue in the programming, or a serious issue in the hardware used. I don't know which scenario would be worse here - 0.002" interference in the bore for the barrel extension fitment, or a 0.002" interference in the slot that the barrel index pin goes in. Probably be worse for the slot and index pin. <dontknow> That's effed up, from a machining standpoint. I'd like to see IRA get in here on this and provide some follow-up on what they've found.

Hell, I told him that he could be a Hand Model... <thumbsup>

Uh huh... Big hands mean... I need big gloves. <laughs> I've got ugly, nasty caveman hands, brother - why do you think I comment when I see nice hands, like Matt Cross has?... ;D

Maaaaaan, if these were XL I'd be all over this deal. :o

Sure it does, brother - those long and short roll pins that are included with the Gen 1 are exactly for locking the post into position once you get it set. <thumbsup>

I'd think that the barrel not being seated fully in the upper would be next to impossible. Just tightening the barrel nut to spec would seat the two, even if they were just started, with the index pin barely in the slot. Machining the threaded front of the upper receiver too long would do it, though, as well as just machining the upper receiver too long at the back - anything that would keep the BCG from pushing the buffer off it's pin. Even machining the buffer retaining pin hole too far back by a few thousandths of an inch would do it, with everything else being "correct."

I know you were asking earlier about the BM Vista Hunter - I think you'll have a few troubles getting any BM for a little while, just due to the primary Bushmaster factory in Windham, Maine shutting down. They'll be available again when everything gets sorted out, but I still think that's the reason you're having the problems that you are. Moving to RRA is definitely NOT a good choice recently. I'm talking "recently" as in this year, or last year. They might improve, but it doesn't look like that will happen anytime soon. Bushmaster could build a new factory from the ground up in a completely different state, and probably ship you a rifle - before you'd get something you ordered from Rock River. Take that for what it's worth. That's only my $0.02, but I'd make a wager on it being an accurate guess-timation.

Weights, homey... ;D

I only did the removal and comparison just to see if DPMS had a different catch for their .308 kit. They don't.

The really jacked-up part of this whole purchase-frenzy is that I currently have 5 gas tube roll pins in "inventory..." :o The stripped lowers won't be stripped for long. <dontknow> The Mega billet will be my 300BLK gun - with the Mono upper... ;D

No problem, brother. <thumbsup> In theory, these things are somewhere around 40% larger than their little AR brothers, but some of the things with them feel like they're 200% more difficult. Pain in the ass, sometimes... ;D Soaked with lube is alot more important on these things, even more so than the 15s, especially during break-in.

Right there. You can make your own vise jaws with a section of 90 degree angle aluminum - bulk piece at any hardware store in 4-foot lengths, usually. Cut sections as long as your vise jaws, lay them in there when you start the squeeze, and they're smooth - no marring what you're squeezing. <thumbsup>

Just transfered a Mega GTR-3H lower today, and it's set-screwed in the same location as Robo's pic. Drew, the only other tip I can think of for this specific pin is the "Taped Plier Jaws" trick - tape the jaws on a set of pliers so you don't damage the protruding ears that the roll pin slides into - start the pin, then use the plier's squeeze to set the pin in place - one jaw on the pin itself, the other jaw on the opposite ear that the pin gets pushed into. I'll see if I can find a pic. Since 4 lowers came in today, I've already built one - I should have grabbed pics myself, but didn't.

It'll need to be shot to seat/break in those gas rings. They're stiff when the go together initially, but they'll break in well. Run that thing WET with lube, especially all over those gas rings and bolt tail area for the rings.

I think there would be - the screws wouldn't have to be large in diameter to securely attach a Pic rail. The machinist option would be better, but maybe just to duplicate the strike plate with a longer (towards bottom) flat surface (but otherwise identical). Attach the Pic rails section yourself. The Pic rail doesn't have to be perfect, just to attach a monopod, but I don't know if I'd want to pay a machinist to replicate one when they're everywhere, cheap. That's alot of cuts. Machinists have a basic set of rules that MUST be adhered to, additionally... <laughs> You can have it Fast, you can have it Cheap, and you can have it High Quality - Pick two... * If you want it Fast and Cheap, it won't be High Quality. * If you want it Fast and High Quality, it won't be Cheap. * If you want it High Quality and Cheap, it won't be Fast. Pick what 2 you want...

So, here's what happened, and why I made that comment. Got the transfer done this afternoon, even though other parts came in before this batch. That weekend was HELL on me... :o <dontknow> What I've learned: It sucks to have to come to grips with the fact that what you purchased qualifies you for "your own group buy..." :o July 4th weekend yielded all this: 3 Surplus Ammo & Arms branded stripped lowers (Aero Precision made stuff), all sequentially numbered, plus one Mega billet GTR-3H stripped ambi lower from Dave (branson, here): 4 more BADASS safety selectors, and some schwag from Roger: One "most superior" MechArmor TAC OPS 1 sweet-ass charging handle for the .308 AR (seen here with the BCM Large - Thanks, Van!): Painful weekend... :-[

I'm curious about this as well. I used a DPMS LR308-specific lower parts kit on my gun, and I'm going to removed the mag catch and compare it do a brand new DPMS AR-15 mag catch. If anything is different, I'll post a pic - if it's the same part, I'll just come back in here and say it. Back in a few... Back - There is ZERO difference in the DPMS LR308-specific mag catch that comes in their LR308 LPK, and the DPMS AR-15 mag catch. Nothing different.

I was thinking about a more solid mounting base for the piece of Pic rail. As far as losing features, I'd think you would do just as much damage to someone by hitting them with a piece of Pic rail as with the strike plate's original base. <dontknow> Don't think it would ever come to that, but if it did the Pic rail would be just as effective.

Welcome aboard, Sonny. <thumbsup> What did you just call me?... <laughs>

Brother, have you considered doing something other than 'glassing in a piece of rail? Reason I ask is because I thought about doing the same thing to the one UBR'd gun I have. What I wanted to do was use the aluminum UBR strike plate, grind the bottom flat(er), then drill/tap it and screw in a bolt-on piece of rail. Alot more solid that way, in my twisted thinking. :o ;D Available here, MagPul Part # MAG331 (for searching purposes): http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG331/34

From the sound of it, I might actually have a chance, then! ;D 3? <dontknow> Run a 762SD on your 5.56 guns, brother. I see you have that one selected in another thread. <thumbsup> The sucky thing about that is paying for them, then they get shipped to your FFL, THEN you get the serial numbers and send in your paperwork. They sit in the FFLs safe until the paperwork comes back. I'm AD/HD bad enough that the wait would make me bonkers. :o I'm crying over here... <lmao>

That's one slick setup! <thumbsup> I'll be spending alot of money in the not-so-distant future... >:( Great job, Robo.