98Z5V

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VALID POINT!!!

That was a good call, long, too. Careful what you bitch about - I'll call you every single day...

That doesn't mean a single thing, until your barrel comes in, and you put the flange on that barrel right up against the upper, then screw that barrel nut down over the flange on that barrel. You are trying to figure this all out, without accounting for how thick that flange is, on your barrel, that you don't have yet.

Oh, mister... you just wait 'til you listen to that voicemail, after you didn't pick up...

Well played...

Despite all the shiit going on, across this country - Happy Easter, you group of Deplorables. Just got off the phone with Rene, and figured that posting this up is easier than calling the rest of you that I personally know. Stay with it, hang with it, deal with it - shiit is getting better...

^^^ Exactly.

Noveske KX-5. That's the Skinny Flaming Pig.

Good update, and good job, man. Yeah, those 4-40 set screws - you have to shorten the spring the same length as the screw, and if you force it all together, there will be so much spring pressure on the detent that you'll never get that takedown pin to move. Another side to that - if you feel it's really tough to get that takedown pin going - pull the spring, clip off another coil, and try it out. Still tight? Cut another coil, etc. I use 6-32 set screws, too. You just have to ream the hole size up a little, then tap it. If you have the 4-40 tap,you can just run it (tap) the standard hole straight away, no reaming required. We've been doing this for 10 years here for the takedown pin, before lowers were ever threaded for that. Aero was actually the first company to start offering that, and it was on their AR15 lowers.

Measure the length of your gas tube. That will tell you. If it's a tick over 15", then it's an AR15-based rifle gas tube. Check this section out, too - TONS of info in here: https://forum.308ar.com/forum/65-308-ar-what-you-need-to-know/

The gas block will be fine. It's already maxed out at 0.125". Stick a 1/4" wooden dowel down the barrel, so if you punch through too hard, you won't hit the rifling on the other side of the barrel. Slow drill speed, and light pressure.Let the bit eat,and do the work. You push too hard (apply too much pressure) or go too fast, you'll break the drill bit off in the barrel.

You caught that one faster than I thought you would...

I haven't tried this stuff yet, but I've researched it a few times. However... Alliant RL-15 (Reloder 15) is damn near an identical swap for Varget. Many years ago (after the Sandy Hook buying panic) Varget disappeared then, too. I switched to RL-15, and in several different loads, they were only 0.1gr apart.

On mine, it was the original Noveske KX-3, the fat one. There were zero other options back when I built this thing, just the old-school Flaming Pig. Tons of options now, seems like there are several companies making these kinds of muzzle devices. I can't see the other ones being much different, as far as what they do.

You ALWAYS take care of your customers! I'll be back whenever you're ready.

WAY happy with it, brother! I don't think it was the box-abuse that did it - it was my frenzy to get that thing open...

This was the original post from this thread, and you even quote it - you responded with the response below... The OP clearly stated that he was using a 7" receiver extension. You then proceed to tell him that he needs a 5.300" long buffer. Not to mention, this thread was started in March of 2015... Doesn't matter that you are using Rifle Recoil System Components. Doesn't matter. You used that info to correct a guy that is using Carbine Recoil System Components. Are you getting that yet? Is that sinking in? You directly told a guy with a Carbine Recoil System that he needed a Rifle buffer, which will never, ever work. And, research your numbers. This is a good place to start: http://heavybuffers.com/reference.html

He's running a Carbine Recoil System... Your other numbers above are not correct.

That's a huge difference in what it could be. Doesn't matter, though, because you'll need a gasport diameter between 0.093"~0.096" to make that run gun. That gas port diameter has to go up, or this thing is never gonna run right. Might as well put a (real, genuine) Armalite AR-10 Rifle Gas Tube in there while you're at it. Doing those two things will complete fix that gas system. The Armalite Part # that you need for the gas tube is 10007010.

I have a 7.5" 5.56 gun. Don't have the gas port diameter data on it, though. Standard gas block, non-adjustable. Standard gas tube, no pigtail. First put the A2 FH on it, and that SUCKED! The concussion you feel in/to your head rattles your teeth. I shitcanned the A2 and put a Noveske Pig on it. That tamed the blast down, and actually made it shootable. 11.5" 5.56 gun, A2 on it - no problems, that combo works, doesn't rattle your teeth.

Based on that description, your gas system isn't cycling the BCG fully/properly. Yes, that gas tube is too short, and I'll bet that your gas port diameter is too small. That combination is preventing the gun from functioning like it should. What's the brand of the barrel, what's the gas system, what's the gasport diameter... All we know right now is that it's a 20" barrel. Probably Rifle Gas, doubt it's Midlength.

VOILA!!!! So first, I get the box at work... I sneak away and cut the top open just to get a look at the goodies - and the box starts to split down one side!!! I run and grab the tape gun, tape that sucker back up, and slid it under my bench. It was a shiitshow at work, busy as hell, and after the end of the day, I'm 15 minutes away from work - and realized I forgot the damn box of brass! I got it home the next day, and got into everything - and got the smaller bags out first. They were on top. We got: .300 Win Mag, 7mm-08, 45-70, 8mm Mauser, .243 Win, and Factory .300BLK brass. Okay, so with that out of the box, it doesn't feel any lighter... I open the trash bags - and it's a PILE of LC primed .308 Win brass! I realized right away that I needed to get this into another container, so I head to the garage to get hands-on a large ammo can. It was a can for 7.62 linked, 1500-round can. One of those big ones! All this brass almost has that can half full. I don't need any .308 Win brass for a looooong time - and this stuff will rival my stash of Hornady Match brass. So, initially, when Dion posted this stuff, I fired in here right away and said "I'll take the Lake City, brother!" Then I send him a PM... "Hey man, how much do you have?..." He tells me back, "Oh, probably about 700~800." So, I'm thinking okay, that's over $100 easy, but I told him I'd take it, so I'll do it. Then he send me another PM, and says, "Hey man - I have alot more than I thought - probably about 1100 of these things..." So, I'm thinking, alright... You said you'd take it, so you're taking it... When he did the final count, I told him just to throw all the other stuff in there that he was hanging onto for me, and we'll do the biggest batch I've bought yet... Can't thank you enough, @dpete - you rock, brother!

How many rounds through them, or one, so far?

Have your ammo prices INCREASED now, with teh Corona Virus Fake-Pandemic? I just want an honest answer here. Really, a "YES!" or a "NO!" will suffice. Thanks.