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And you certainly didn't state it, either - and it IS pertinent information, when you're looking for gun advice. Just like the Canadian guy that just came here - looking for gun advice. When asked where he was from, he stated Canada. How the hell are we supposed to advise a Canadian on gun shiit in Canada? Maybe YOU will go answer his questions, and take responsibility?... Are you seeing the pattern, or are you blind to it?...

Then buy Aero Precision M5 upper and lower, and be done with it. They'll work. They go through your FFL (the lower does). Do you want a gun that runs - or are you trying to get around Cali law, and do an 80% so you can avoid something in Cali law?...

Tired of this here... This is how we get info from people-looking-for-info...

Yeah - go hit your intro again, for a new response.

Where, in this intro, did you state that you were from California? Where? If you want honest input on gun-advice, it has to be just that - honest. Nobody here, minus a few select individuals, can properly advise anyone on anything California. I might tell you something, and you follow it - fuk, I'm in Arizona, where I can almost do what I want. Not you - you're Californian. You do what I say, you end up in JAIL because what you did it NOT LEGAL IN CALI... and you blame this place. You blame this board. You blame ME. Yeah, fuk that. Be honest, in your intro. Tell everyone where you are, what you're trying to do, etc. Where in this thread did you ever say that you're in California?... Short answer - never.

Seems to me that your primary concern is on the 80%, and you're a Californian. What are your questions on the .358 Win? I gave you my input on that, and i thought it was clear. Again, that's just my opinion, so let me know what was confusing about what part I stated on the .358 Win. Otherwise - what are you looking for? Legal advice on an 80% lower, and you're a Californian? Is that what you're after? Be clear, man, and state what it is that you're after - after all this 2-page stuff.

Show me your intro thread here, where you described all the stuff that you have going on... Just link it. I'm cool with hitting a link and looking at it.

People wonder why we harp on the "Intro Thread" so much here. THIS is why. Go to the Intro Section: https://forum.308ar.com/forum/22-introductions/ Tell us about yourself. I don't care about your long walks on the beach, and all that - but where ARE YOU FROM?! What gun experience do you already have? You, @BeeKay?... Could have saved alot of time, right up front, specifically telling us about yourself in the intro section/post about yourself, and directly stating that you're from Cali, in the middle of a nationwide gun-and-ammo panic. Saved LOTS of time that way. Bottom line for most of us here - WE don't know WHAT you can do in your state right now. YOU need to keep up on that, and all that's a'changing' daily.

That means a whole NEW thing here, with what we can recommend to you. "WE" are not Cali, nor do "we" here know the Cali laws in and out - and they're not uncomplicated. You need to hit this place for some serious - and timely - advice. So much has changed in the past Corona-Revolution, that I can't keep up on Cali Gun Laws. Hopefully, it's being kept up here: https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/index.php

Good luck. See you again when it doesn't function.

Out of respect for Eric, I swear I'm not gonna go there. I love that brother too much.

@Dabaer just so you know you listed a whole bunch of parts types - but you didn't list a SINGLE manufacturer. Not one. You need to list the people that made your parts, because we - US people - have alot of familiarity with different companies, that make parts. But... we can't guess what ones that those are, on your build. Make sense?

For me, personally, I don't give a shiit what you call your AR rifle parts, from the wrong side of the border. What I care about is WHAT YOUR RIFLE IS DOING. I don't care what your specs are, because you'll give it some Canadian bullshiit name, and it won't have a single thing to do with anything here in 'Merica, and it won't have anything to do with 'Merican specs" - you'll name it something funny, or you'll just straight call it whatever it is Canadian - and that won't mean shiit to US gun-builders. HOW IS YOUR GUN FUCKING UP?... What is your Canadian Gun doing, that it's not supposed to? What is your Canadian Gun doing wrong, that it shouldn't? we either have a language barrier or a Canadian Barrier, and the only one that can help us here is @Cunuckgaucho

Yep, hear ya. These days are chaos. Do what you can, when you can...

@BeeKay - what state do you live in?... Has a direct impact on "gun-info" that you're recommended, here on this board.

That is false. Very, very false. You don't just "retime" a barrel extension. That is complete bullshiit, by whoever it was that told you that. You need a set of .358 Win headspace gauges, that at least include the GO and NO-GO gauges. You check your headspace on your barrel and bolt, with those gauges, and you buy parts from reputable manufacturers, and you should be good. If it's off... there's no adjusting it.

I have a .308 Win AR with a 13.5" barrel, and a red dot - and can hit IPSC steel plates at 400 yards. My .338 Fed AR has a 16" barrel, and a 1~6 scope, and can do the same. The .358 Win AR souldn't have any issue at all connecting with something that's "hunting vitals) sized (7" or 10", depending on what animal you're after) at 300 yards. A 19" barrel is WAY overkill for that kind of maximum distance. Accuracy is accuracy. Your barrel is either accurate, or it's not. If it's accurate - it doesn't matter how long or short it is, for what we do. This isn't Bench-Rest F-Class Competition here. If it's accurate, but it's shorter - it has less muzzle velocity. I can dial in my scope for muzzle velocity changes, at distance, and still be very accurate. At 300 yards, though, it really doesn't matter. Wind doesn't even affect your round at that distance, unless you're shooting in the middle of a tornado.

That ramp combination shouldn't cause a huge problem. Dremel Chainsaw Sharpening Bit would match that upper to the ramps in the barrel, in pretty short order, though. I think the issue is "new gun" + "mechanical engineer" = problems that aren't problems. Lube the gun up very well, shoot the hell out of it, and most of this will go away. Windham Weaponry = Bustmaster. Once Freedom Group and Remington bought out Bushmaster (the new BM stuff is based on the DPMS LR-308 platform, and good)... Once bought out, Freedom Group closed the factory, pissed on all the workers, and relocated Bushmaster to another state. The old Bushmaster workers got involved, bought the old factory back, and resumed business as usual, under the new company name - Windham Weaponry, in Windham, Maine. Here's their history: https://www.windhamweaponry.com/about-us/company-history/

Almost all of us here are from the US - so we might not be able to help with your problem. Depends on what it is. We have a few Canadian members here that are VERY WELL versed on Canadian specifics, though. Welcome aboard.

@BeeKay - what are you going to use this gun for? I'm not dogging your barrel choice, not at all - please don't think that. I'm just asking questions here. The .358 Win is not a long-range cartridge. It's a hunting caliber. I'm going to make mine with a 16" Wilson Combat Ranger barrel, weighing in at 34.1oz. That's great for hunting - shorter, and way lighter than the barrel you're going with. 19" barrel and 44-ish oz - that's alot of swing weight. FWIW, barrels don't care what upper and lower you use. Just don't care. If they're made right, all barrels will work. The 80% lower might be the only issue that you run into - and you must find a compatible upper for it.

I haven't read any accuracy reviews on KAK barrels, but maybe that's because I haven't looked. But the Wilson Combat Match Grade barrels hae reviews everywhere, and I've written my own about them. Match polished chamber, final lapped barrels... You'll be hard-pressed to find a better production barrel in hunting-calibers, than the ones that Wilson Combat makes. I just asked a question, on why you went that way, over the Wilson Combat. You answer was "I don't know that it is better." I'll bet it is, hands down, but that's just me speaking on my experience with two WC barrels. It's just the quality that WC puts into their own barrels, that they make in-house. They really are Match Grade barrels - and they're not that expensive, for what you get. That's just my opinion, on my own experience.

Sorry, @CorpsTex, but your information is not correct. We've come a loooong way in buffer-work on this board since 2015, when this thread was started, and finished. He clearly stated that he had a 7.000" internal depth receiver extension, so that's an AR15 Carbine Receiver Extension. To function on a .308AR, that extension must use a 2.500" long buffer. Buffer weight is another matter that we've gone through here, through the years. Now, if he was using a Rifle Recoil System, that receiver extension would have an internal depth of 9 11/16" (both .308AR and AR15, and both varients of AR15, being A1 and A2 stocks - exact same Rifle receiver extension), and he'd have to use a buffer length of 5.200" long - not the 5.300" long, that you stated - that extra 0.100" makes a BIG difference on alot of these builds, believe it or not. That extra 0.100" (depends where you put it) can make your gun run like a dream, or completely fornicate-up. Having it in buffer length, when it's supposed to be 5.200" long - is not a great idea. .308AR Rifle Buffers are 5.200" long. AR15 Rifle Buffers are 5.900" long. If your buffer is different from that - then who made it?... It's not what it's supposed to be, I'll tell you that much... But that doesn't matter - he had a Carbine Recoil System. You're referencing (loosely) a Rifle Recoil System. Now, on that Rifle Recoil System, you're telling him that he needs to have a spring length of 12.50". What's the wire diameter of that spring, and the coil count? The best spring to run on a .308AR Rifle Recoil System is the Armalite EA1095 - they pioneered it, they make it the exact same every single time, and they QC it. It's the best "factory" spring that you can possible buy. And it measures: 34 coils at 0.072" wire diameter, 13.750" long, relaxed length. So, I have to ask - who made your spring, and do you really know it's right? It's nowhere close to what the original designer of this rifle made, and stated was "correct" for a Rifle Recoil System. I'll agree with your assessment that his buffer was too long - it was probable an AR15 Carbine buffer, at 3.250" long, and not a DPMS LR-308 CARBINE buffer, that should have been 2.500" long. That was probably it. The rest of your data is off, and I don't want to see others here (new people) repeating it, and stating it as fact. Hope you understand that.

That statement is completely false. You can't adjust the headspace on an AR barrel - that has to be precision machined, and performed, when building the barrel - by the barrel maker.

Which KAK barrel are you buying, and why is that better than a Wilson Combat barrel? I will eventually build a 7mm-08 AR and a .358 Win AR, and Wilson Combat will be the barrels I'll use - based off my past experience with the Wilson Combat .260 Rem and .338 Fed AR barrels.

.358 Winchester?