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Everything posted by 98Z5V
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It's Nut'Scaping, brother. Have you heard of this yet? It's trending now, apparently. Rob is Nut'Scaping us with this stuff. That's where you take pics pf beautiful landscape - but there's a ballsack hanging in the pic... We're being Nut'Scaped...
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Fuckin' NERD MAGIC is what I call it. Math is the greatest weapon that we have. You just need to know the math to use, for the application that you're trying to do. That's the truth that I try to spread, everytime we all get together...
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You were Jameson (and that's alright) and you were Krakken... We loved through that, at your direct responsibility. JBMatt was that sweet, sexy Salted Caramel Crown - and we lived through that. The guy that brought the Hennessey to the party was Mike. All this lies at his feet... Just like when he brought that Chinese rice-wine to the party a few years ago... It smelled like perfume, and it tasted like old gym socks...
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Help! Front detent stuck in lower receiver
98Z5V replied to Andy's topic in DPMS LR-308 General, Technical Discussion
It definitely will - we prove that daily by taping receivers for the takedown detent, and cutting the spring by the length that the 4-40 set screw is. It works. That receiver is gonna be tough, and I wouldn't want to drill into it,after looking at it - that's a sexy receiver. I'd measure a detent, cut that much spring length off it, and just go to it from there. Detent springs are cheap,in the larger picture here. Cut a spring down, insert it, put that new detent on top, and pin the pivot pin. If it feels too strong, take the pivot pin back out and cut another coil or two off the spring. That's gonna be the safest bet, with this receiver. That's what I'd do, if I were in these shoes... Just cut springs... -
Why don't you just post something about guns, on a gun board, William. Why don't you try that for once? Or, maybe just point me to where you've already done that here, on this board... Link the threads,if you can find them. There aren't many. Here.
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Help! Front detent stuck in lower receiver
98Z5V replied to Andy's topic in DPMS LR-308 General, Technical Discussion
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Help! Front detent stuck in lower receiver
98Z5V replied to Andy's topic in DPMS LR-308 General, Technical Discussion
You're stuck, man. Would you consider drilling a hole, if I told you how far back it had to be, and how large it needed to be? I can run the numbers, and you can drill a vent hole - that should have been there in the first place... You drill that hole, and you can blow that stuck-chunk right out of there, and start over. Birchwood Casey Permablack will get you by covering it, and no one will ever know it was done. -
Help! Front detent stuck in lower receiver
98Z5V replied to Andy's topic in DPMS LR-308 General, Technical Discussion
If he has the vent hole in the side of his lower receiver - he can hit that vent hole with compressed air, and it'll blow that detent right out of there, right out the front. That's why I asked for a pic of the right side of his receiver, Jim. If the vent hole is there, this is already a done deal. It's simple. This is the solution: -
He can post that pic in whatever thread he wants to... Doesn't matter what thread it is...
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Help! Front detent stuck in lower receiver
98Z5V replied to Andy's topic in DPMS LR-308 General, Technical Discussion
Oh, by the way, @Andy, go hit the Intro Section and tell us about yourself. https://forum.308ar.com/forum/22-introductions/ -
Help! Front detent stuck in lower receiver
98Z5V replied to Andy's topic in DPMS LR-308 General, Technical Discussion
That's gonna be a rough one. Decades ago, if I would have invented the aluminum-magnet that I tried to do, it would be your rescue here, and I'll be a millionaire now. Sadly, I never followed through with that, as I couldn't figure it all out. Post a pic of the right side of your lower receiver. Up close pic, around the upper right side of your lower receiver. -
Oh, it's nothing to do with beer, no matter WHAT the Beer-Octane rating is. It's about mixing the Krakken spiced rum, Salted Caramel Crown (pure candy), the Jameson's (gotta START with that), and then... THEN... some fucker brings out Hennessey Congac... THAT is when you're fucked. I'm just sayin'...
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You're gawd dayum right it is... NOBODY catches that, even when you give them the hint! You done well, brother...
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There are no nazis like that here - that's the proper way to carry a 1911, right there. That's the condition that a 1911 needs to be in, all the time.
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Nope. Gators are fucking gay, and worthless. For 10 years now, @edgecrusher and I have EXTENSIVELY DISCUSSED this very topic, in excruciating detail. #1 - you NEED a moat around your compound. #2 - you fill that fucker with HIPPOS. I shiit you not. You DO NOT FUK WITH A HIPPO, IN WATER. You fill your moat with Hippos. /Done. Even baby Hippos don't even give a shiit about a Lion... Here's what happens with Hippos and Crocs - Alligators would be even easier for a Hippo - Alligators don't have any idea WTF just happened, where Crocs might be "aware that I might get my ass kicked..." You got a bunch of THESE GUYS in your moat, you have zero to worry about... Fill your moat with Hippos, brother. Greg and I have spent the better part of the last 10 years trying to come up with something better to fill a moat with. We can't come up with anything better than a Hippo... We've seriously tried to come up with something better - there is nothing better... Finally, a tribute to our decade of brain-storming, @edgecrusher...
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I like that every one of those are in proper carry-configuration, for a 1911 - chambered, hammer cocked, safety on. You're one down-click with your draw thumb away from instant single-action Perfection.
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Let's separate proper cycling of the gun, and non-damaged primers, from locking back. Those are two separate issues here. Gas pressure, OR recoil system weight, is causing that gun to unlock early and bulge the hell out of those primers. When the buffer weight is correct to lock the gun back, it bulges primers - is that correct? Once you ADD WEIGHT to the buffer, you slow down the carrier and cyclic speed, the primer issues go away - but it won't lock back anymore... Do I have that right? First, verify the recoil system, make sure it's right. Length of buffer, good (appropriate) buffer spring, internal depth of receiver extension, measure at the top of the receiver extension. This gas port is too small (surprise, for a PSA large-frame gun, total shocker...). Receiver extension depths,and buffer lengths, SHOULD be one of these combos below. No other way around it, and "close" won't cut it. If your receiver extension is "close" but a little longer than what I'm listing below, you WILL crash the BCG into the ears on the lower receiver - that will completely fuk your entire recoil impulse up, and it WILL affect the cycling of the gun... 1. Rifle receiver extension - 9 11/16" internal depth, with a buffer that's 5.200" long. Weight should be 5.4 oz. 2. AR-10 Carbine receiver extension - 7 5/8" internal depth, with a buffer that's 3.250" long. Buffer weight can be anything from 3.8oz to 5.4oz, but you WANT 5.4oz for proper operation on a large-frame AR. 3. AR15 Carbine receiver extension - 7.000" internal depth. True Armalite depth is 6 15/16" internal. That has to run a Shorty 308 buffer in it, and it's 2.500" long. Weight can only be (max) 3.8oz, if it's an aluminum-bodied buffer. You have to go to the aftermarket to get a 2.500" buffer up to 5.4 or 5.3oz, proper weight, and they're going to have stainless bodies to achieve that weight. Aluminum bodies will never get you there. ^^^ That gun has one of those combinations. Chances are very, very high, that the receiver extension is NOT the correct internal depth. You must start there, and have a proper recoil system, before you can get into the gas port info for the barrel...
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Hold on before you return that gun! What I highlighted in red above is usually a gas port issue. You have one example that does this to primers - and one that doesn't. PERFECT! That gives you a great example, for specs, to find the differences in the one that's giving that owner issues... I'd pull the bolts of both those and measure the firing pin holes in the bolt faces, first. Then, I'd pull the gasblocks, and measure gas port diameters in both. I'd start with those two things, right off the bat. Don't forget to check the length of the gas tubes in both - those gas tubes should end right in the center of the cam pin cutout in the upper receivers.
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You would be static when using that, but it's worth it's weight in gold, for what is does. Turns night time into daylight for you, to 600~800 yards. You wouldn't patrol with that beast - you'd use goggles. Put that on when you're in position for the night.
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You better haul ass, brother... Lesson 65B. You snooze, you lose.
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You crushed that deal, brother - you did well.
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Eugene Stoner was a Genius. He really was. There's no other way to explain it. He's on Level Ground with John By-God Moses Browning.
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Will do, brother. I'll snag doubles and triples. Shiit,I still have some from last year that I'll kick your way - if I can find them... That Ballistic Advantage Tank - with the AR barrel and gas tube and A2 on the end... That one is fucking priceless... To understand this one a little better, other people, I had this BA patch on my sleeve at the last Fall Shoot... Mike lost it when he saw this one...
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That holster wear won't matter - if you didn't PUT some holster wear on it, I'd be disappointed... I have one Safe Queen 1911, and I'll show it to you next time you're over here. There's a reason behind that one. Oh, it gets shot - it'll never be abused or worn daily. That one is very special to me, for very special reasons. I'll still let you put your dikbeaters all over it and shoot it, though...
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Our detailed responses, as you posted those entries - are not posted in that recap. In order for others to see that, and see what was told to you, they'll need to go back to Page 2 (on a computer - might be different on a phone), and look at your first post in this thread. Maybe this collection of posts will help with a diagnosis. My first recommendation is to shoot different ammo - S&B ammo can SUCK, lot by lot. Shoot something different, something quality, and see what the rifle does. If all you've been shooting is S&B, you're flying blind here, on your side of diagnosis. See is some Federal Gold Medal Match ammo does the same thing. Shelf-Ammo for 6.5 Creedmoor is everywhere. All your pics are with S&B ammo here.









