98Z5V

^^^ It's funny how many times they use "AR-10" in their description, and there's NOTHING about that upper receiver that would work right on an AR-10... Terminology is important. Very important. That manufacturer doesn't know what the hell they're talking about... In light of that - think about what you'll buy from them.

Ed. Love you, man. Please explain what's one thousand dollars about this pistol. M&P. Apex trigger. Magwell. Help me understand here.

Just so you know, Ed, this FallShoot this year, there's a special 880 yard target, with your name on it. It's Mr. 800 Meters, in your honor.

what is being sold? The magwell? For sale price? Damn, Eddie...

That's all me, brother... right there...

I'm getting the feeling that they decided to jump into the .308AR market, and they don't know the first thing about it. We can solve the issues they created, no worries. AR15 bolt catch has to go - but the bad thing is, what do you use? You need a .308 bolt catch, no questions about that. I'd just try a DPMS LR308 bolt catch to start. Seems to be the platform they tried to copy. After that, we might need to work in AR-10A, AR-10B, whatever. It's up in the air. You literally are that guinea pig on this platform, here. Congrats! Have no fears, though - it's 100% mechanical, and it can't out-think us. We can defeat it. It will run, whether it's got design problems or not... We will "redesign" it,and make it function... Get that gas block off and measure that gas port in the barrel...

Yeah, a huge reason. You don't have a Rifle Length Gas System. You have a Midlength Gas System. You need the Armalite AR-10 Carbine Gas Tube. Not an imitation, the real one. AR15 Midlength gas tube: Overall Length: 11-3/4" Armalite AR-10 Carbine Gas tube: Overall Length 12 1/16" That right there fixes your short gas tube. I think you have a gas port problem in your barrel. You need to remove your gas block, and measure the gas port size. All the specs for what you need are in the thread I linked above. We will get you running, and running right. Start with the steps I've listed above. I'm crossing Anderson off my list for .308ARs. They can't figure it out, either...

We'll get this thing running, man - don't worry. Check that thread I linked, and what I had to do to get that one running right. I'll bet you're in the exact same boat here.

So, you don't have a Rifle Length Gas System, then. It's Midlength Gas System. I would bet my money that you're gonna end up just like this thread, right here: You need the Armalite AR-10 Carbine Gas Tube to fix the gas tube issue (backordered everywhere, right now - get on an email notification list with someone). I'd bet your gas port is too small, so that gas block needs to come off and the gas port in the barrel needs to be measured. You'll probably have to drill it up.

In barrel manufacturing, that barrel extension installation/torqueing is on of the first operations. That's what determines barrel centerline. After that, when headspace is good, the rest of the barrel is completed (gas port drilled, etc.) It wasn't that the extension was overtorqued, not in this case. Chances are good that it's a taper-pinned FSB, and it wasn't centered on the barrel when they reamed it and pinned it. It's off center now. OP, there's not much that DPMS will be able to do for you, in that case, besides replace the barrel. The can't ream it again, and re-pin it with taper pins. That's just not possible. They would have to start with a new barrel that hasn't been reamed yet. If you want to fix this yourself, you can. Even if it's way off, is the barrel shooting well? If so, save it. Fix it at home. You could do this with it, if you wanted:

@Gopher Steve, you are WAY GOOD, brother. Way good. She runs, very well. Tested the FSB to make sure there's not a "covering of the gas port," and I'm not seeing any kind of change in the ejection pattern, at all. Here's the test-fire vid. 16 rounds. One mag with one, to test single-round lockback, then a mag of 15. Not even a hiccup in it, in the least. It just goes. I've already got it apart right now, and I chopped up the front sight base. I need to blend and smooth it, then I'll Cerakote it, and get your upper back together. There'sno reason that I can't get this back in the mail to you tomorrow (Monday). You'll be shooting without issue, next weekend - unless you want to take a day off work when it arrives...

ONe of you bastards that venture forth on the newest Fall Shoot - just remind me around that campfire... Someone shout "C4 Basketball!!!" and you'll see a reaction kinda like Doc saying, "Armadillo!!!"... I'll fucking lose it... That's like priming the fuel pump, right there. Doc SET ME ON FIRE about armadillos, with one simple comment, last year. Fuk those things. Armored Rat Motherfuckers that jump. Fuk them. Same thing will happen, and you'll trigger me. C4 Basketball is all it will take...

If you don't know who he is, look into it. If you know who he is, stay behind him. This is an old song from him. He hasn't changed.

Matt and I talked about this very thing tonight. This very thing. If your buffer face is getting chewed up, there's only ONE thing that going on with that - and in the past,with so many "billet, custom receivers" from so many companies that don't know what they're doing... it still comes down to this.. If your buffer face is chewed, your "receivers are out of spec." Period. There's only TWO things that can make that happen. ONLY TWO. If your receivers PIN together, and "mate" then nothing else, in this free world can cause a chewed buffer face. Nothing... Look at these two things, right here: #1. Your lower receiver is out of spec, and your buffer retainer hole is out of spec. It's either drilled NOT on a 6* angle, or it's drilled too far back in the lower receiver. Period. #2. Your upper is out of spec, and the THREADED area of your upper receiver is too long. Somebody jacked that up, and it's the LESS likely of the two. If your UPPER THREADED AREA is too long, it places your barrel too far forward, which locates your BCG too far forward (when assembled), and your BCG is too far forward in the upper, to... PUSH YOUR BUFFER OFF THE BUFFER RETAINER PIN, IN THE LOWER. It's REALLY that simple. It can - really - be only those two things. If you chew up a buffer face like that, your lower buffer retainer pin hole is jacked in it's spec, or your upper threaded end wasn't to spec, and it's too long. Yeah, short BCG, whatever - that shiit is a standard. Both platforms, big and small. RRA doesn't have this issue, and their BCG is another 1/4" longer, and their buffer is another 1/4" shorter - they don't chew buffer faces. Those two things are the problem. Nothing else. More often than not, it's the buffer retainer hole. I bought a Spike's Tactical Billet Receiver set before they were announced. Got one of the first ones made. It's either serial # 31 or #34 - I'd have to dig the bastard out to tell you for certain. No matter, one of the first ones out. That thing chewed the SHIIT out of my buffer face within 100 rounds. I didn't bitch, complain,demand a refund... I fixed it - with a Tubbs Carrier Weight System - which added 0.080" tothe length of the BCG. THAT pushed the buffer off it's retaining pin, in the lower. I never talked about that here by manufacturer-name, and I've even refused to state the manufacturer, when I discussed the issue I had, but what my Tubb CWS fixed. Well, it was a Spike's Tactical Billet 5.56 upper and lower set, and it was a pretty penny, back then. Something in the upper, or the lower was out of spec. It's a low-run serial number, and they didn't have it right. I fixed it. There really is only those two things, right there, that will cause you to chew up a buffer face. Only those two. Your upper threaded portion on the upper receiver is too long, or your lower receiver buffer retainer pin hole is jacked, and not to spec. Nothing else will chew a buffer face. Nothing. @308kiwi - thanks for posting what you did, brother. I've needed to vent on this subject for awhile. Years... ( I built that Spike's billet 5.56 gun in 2010....)

Get your Intro up. Are you even in the US? Post away.

You need to seriously dig into an intro thread - in the Intro Section - and tell us about yourself. What you're saying here, without an intro thread, directly dictates what kind of information you get. That's not a bad thing - how the fuk are we supposed to give you answers on your questions when you're not in the US, and asking info - from abroad?... Think about that for a minute...

@Gopher this configuration gets shot in the morning - I've had a hell of a week, brother. Provided all works out (or doesn't), I'll have pics and a shoot video up in the morning on it all. I think it will be fine, but I just want to check and make sure. Provided it's fine, the FSB gets chopped and Cerakoted, the gun gets rebuilt on your upper, and I'll get her right back to you. Watch the thread on the morning, and the results will be up - I'm going out early AM on this one, to beat the heat here.

I'm way down with using a Claymore as a rifle rest, Mack. I'll have a Fall Shoot Campfire Story about this stuff, right here... 18 Claymores in a daisy-chain. Plus ALOT more tied into that firing line... Somewhere on an old computer, I've got a team picture of us on the hill, and the mushroom cloud in the background... "The idiot with the C4 basketball" story goes along with this... and it was not funny...

@Matt.Cross make sure you tell those NC guys that are coming with you.... this...

That doesn't happen anymore. Last HS-NM I got around that price was about 189, and that was in 2010 or 2011. These days, it's all three spring packages (there's only one National Match to order, and all three spring kits come with it - National Match, DMR, and Service Rifle), and the best you'll ever see is $250 and higher. Geissele had a sale last Christmas, and I pulled one direct from them for $240. Your $200 Geisseles now are the SSAs and SSA-Es. On sale. The SSA-E is a different animal, usually around $230, with a combined pull of 3.5lbs. You go SSA for $200, and it's a combined pull of 4.5lbs. You can get into the Geissele G2S for about $160 - that's the SSA without individual testing and no laser engraving. All in all, it's the SSA, with many less QC steps. 4.5lbs combined pull weight. For that pull weight, and for a GREAT trigger, you might as well get a LaRue MBT2S, at 4.5lbs combined. What a trigger. I think I have 4 or 5 of them now, and I won't buy anything else unless it's on "experimentation" terms, or I really need a G HS-NM trigger. The LaRue is $87, from now until this Christmas.

I think you're underestimating it, but that's your call. What rail are you getting for $100? What Geissele trigger are you getting for $200? The upper, lower, BCG and barrel will be good. That DPMS parts kit won't work in the Aero M5 upper and lower, because the M5 uses longer takedown/pivot pins. Better get that from Aero, and it's just under $50. Lump it in with your Aero rifle buffer kit, and save the shipping. Gas tube requirements are gonna be based on how Brownell's has that barrel built. It'll either be AR15 rifle gas tube, or Armalite AR-10 rifle gas tube. There's a difference in the two.

Boring it at a 6* angle will place the buffer further forward, when installed. Boring it straight vertical will place it more rearward, when installed. When not installed as far forward as it's supposed to be, the BCG might not/will not kick it off the buffer retainer when you close those receivers. It's an 80% receiver, not a fully-machined lower. He chewed up his buffer face. That's the only reason I brought that up, in the very beginning. Who bored that buffer retainer hole - the owner (OP here), or was it part of the 80% that was already done when he got it? If it was already done when he got it, is it at the proper angle? My questions, and line of reasoning for asking. Here's his buffer face, all chewed to shiit. ^^^ That's his picture, from page 1 in this thread. There's only ONE thing that will cause a buffer face to get chewed up - the BCG didn't push it off the buffer retainer when the receivers close/pin together. That's the only thing. There is no other cause. Typically, that's because of uppers or lowers that are not machined correctly. His upper is AP. His lower is 80%. You check what you can, first, and inspect in the most logical manner...

Well, it's your money. I run several of those scopes I linked to you, and run them long. They don't disappoint. That's why I asked how far you think you'll practically shoot. Oh, on "reticule." The #2 definition does not negate the #1 (real) definition - it's a woman's handbag, drawstring, typically beaded... The #2 definition is only there because so many people mis-use it... "Reticle" is what you're after. FWIW, Ive been buying PA for many, many years now. I get all their sale notifications, etc. I've never seen them put their Platinum Series on sale, during a sale, or at any other time. Don't want you to hold out waiting for something that might never come. That's alot of scope, for a little money (yeah, I know, $1500, comparatively), and it's easily double what they're asking for it, if you bought that same thing from another manufacturer. If you're .mil or LEO, though, it's $150 cheaper.

Oh shiit, there it is! ret·i·cule ˈredəˌkyo͞ol/ noun noun: reticule; plural noun: reticules 1. historical a woman's small handbag, originally netted and typically having a drawstring and decorated with embroidery or beading. Okay, now that is a badass scope. No kidding, and "the woman's handbag" thing out of the way... Do you need that much scope? What kind of distance will you be shooting? This scope right here will get you to 1k yards, easy: https://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-4-14x44mm-riflescope-acss-hud-dmr-308-223-reticle-pa4-14xffp308

List those parts, if you will, please. We can collectively go over it. Right now, with the A1 stock requirement - no manufacturer can fulfill your need. Nobody puts anything out anymore with an A1. Ah, I forgot one. Fulton Armory. They make almost exactly what you're looking for, and it's already got a good 2-stage trigger, non-adjustable, set to 4.5 lbs. Pick the M110 model if you want a full quad rail, or pick the Guardian model if you only want a continuous top pic rail. Match barrel with hybrid chamber in both, and that's a damn, damn fine barrel from Fulton Armory. You cannot piece something together like this for the $1500-ish they're asking for it. Check 'em: http://www.fulton-armory.com/fariflecal556mmupruniversalprecisionrifle-3-4-2-1-1-2-1-2-2-1-4-2-5-5.aspx http://www.fulton-armory.com/fariflecal556mmupruniversalprecisionrifle-3-4-2-1-1-2-1-2-2-1-4-2-5-2-1.aspx *** That $1500-ish price I stated is because they're both on sale right now, for the exact same price... Lesson 65b - you snooze, you lose.