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Gas block will not go on barrel shoulder


BadBoyBilly

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So I finally got all the parts that I needed to build my .308 (buttstock was on backorder for 3 months).  So I started to assemble the upper and ran into an issue.  The gas block will not go onto the barrel shoulder.  I tried greasing it up but it only goes on a couple mm's and then jams up.  So I said ok maybe I ordered the wrong dimension on the gas block or barrel shoulder.  I double checked and everything is .750

 

Barrel:

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/rifle-barrels/308ar-barrels-prod69784.aspx?avs|Make_3=AR xzzx308

 

Gas Block (part # 100-011-111):

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/gas-system-parts/gas-blocks/ar-15-m16-low-profile-gas-block-prod26994.aspx

 

So I thought ok maybe when the products were packaged up with the wrong product labels.  So I had another barrel for an AR15 project that had a .750 barrel shoulder.  I took the gas block and it slid right on the barrel with little effort.  This to me proved it's not the gas block but the barrel.  I then took out a set of digital calipers and measured the barrel and the diameter of the gas block.  Both come to an exact .750

 

So now that I confirmed the parts are in fact both .750 but the barrel shoulder seems to be a little thick, what do you guys recommend?  I'm afraid if I force it on too hard it's going to get stuck because it takes a LOT of effort to get it off when it gets jammed.  I dont want to sand it because it will obviously ruin the finish of the barrel.....

Edited by BadBoyBilly
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Emery cloth

Yep...Ive had to do that on a few of them...get you some sandpaper and wrap it around your finger and go to town...sometimes the anodizing /coating inside will make it tight....back away from the barrel with anything...lol.....after sanding clean it up then grease it up

should slide on.... :) Wash

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you guys are putting way too much thought into this. It's a lot simpler than you think.

Back the screws out completely. Put a penny or a dime in the gap on the gas block. Reinstall the screws, into the coin. As you tighten the screw into the coin, the gb will expand. Slide it on,remove the coin.

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So I ended up coming across some other threads online and it looks like other people who ran into this situation bought the "clap on" style gas block with gives a little bit more clearance when installing.  I might go that route since it's a fairly inexpensive part.

I think the OP may have the "set screw" type block

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Yes correct it's the set screw type.  Ok the issue I have with the heat method is that if I ever need to take it off, I'm going to have to heat it up again to take it off.  So i'm kind of leaning towards sanding the inside of the gas block since I dont feel like buying another gas block.  Sounds like emery cloth and sand the inside of the gas block with my finger?  What grit should I use?

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I'd just tap it on with a rubber mallet.

If you have to remove it you can always re-heat it back up or remove the gas tube and tap it off from the rear. I've had to do that before. If you can get it on without sanding, do it since sanding will only make the sealing of the block to barrel worse.

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Guys I ended up finally getting it on.  Instead of using grease I used light gun oil.  Really good even wacks on both sides of the gas block, it SLOWLY went on.  I banged it back off and wiped it clean.  I got off a lot of excess coating that came off in the process and now it goes on a lot easier.

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Guys I ended up finally getting it on.  Instead of using grease I used light gun oil.  Really good even wacks on both sides of the gas block, it SLOWLY went on.  I banged it back off and wiped it clean.  I got off a lot of excess coating that came off in the process and now it goes on a lot easier.

Like I said in post #14 use some oil.....lol   good going...   :)  Wash

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