weird hand-guard deal

[xxlfitness@yahoo.com]

So I just bought a handguard for my build, 16 1/2" add its seems very unstable at the front.

Not sure how I could ever mount a bipod on it and have it be stable. Does anyone make a filler or doughnut that can slip over the barrel and fill in the gap between the handguard and barrel so its not just hanging unsupported in free air>

Heres the one I bought:

https://www.cobratac.com/products/cts-ultra-lite-308-series-handguards

[blue109]

You have 16" of very thin lightweight aluminum with only a small contact patch and a couple screws at one end to secure it...wouldnt really expect any other result. Adding something to brace the tube against the barrel pretty much negates the whole point of a free floated handguard. 

[xxlfitness@yahoo.com]

yea, all true and all good but guys, how do people mount bipods to what and how and where, this is not cool, 

[jtallen83]

8 minutes ago, xxlfitness@yahoo.com said:

yea, all true and all good but guys, how do people mount bipods to what and how and where, this is not cool, 

Use bipods on Midwest Industries and Matrix free float tubes, mounted bottom front. Never had an issue loading them up, there may be a little flex on the longer ones but nothing I worry about.

[blue109]

Not really understanding the question? The "how" part is determined by the bipod. I have QD bipods that are attached to rail sections mounted to the bottom of the muzzle end of the tube. 

[xxlfitness@yahoo.com]

copy that brother. thank you

[xxlfitness@yahoo.com]

i know HOW to mount it. There are many way depending upon mlock, keymod, picatinney, or the funky single swivel ear like on a rem 700.

I'm talking about how sturdy it is after its mounted. Sounds like I have my answer. Im just going to mount it and run with it. I think the one thing that is throwing me off a bit is that its a 24" barrel and 16 1/2" keymod and a bit longer than most. The longer they get, the more unsupported length there is and the more flex it seems like

[sketch]

not sure if it helps but looks like you could mount it further back on the hg, say mid way and not have as much flex as putting it at the end? you might just have to try it in a few different positions.

[survivalshop]

1 hour ago, sketch said:

not sure if it helps but looks like you could mount it further back on the hg, say mid way and not have as much flex as putting it at the end? you might just have to try it in a few different positions.

 Ya beat me to it .

[xxlfitness@yahoo.com]

Thanks guys. Ya... Hunan try it

12 minutes ago, survivalshop said:

 Ya beat me to it .

Ya. Hunan try it

[98Z5V]

I'm gonna be honest here.

XXL, I keep seeing you post about the cheapest parts that are out there.  Continually. With your incessant bargain shopping, and finding the cheapest parts that are out there, you have to expect some things.

This falls in line with the "Machinist's Rules..."

 

Don't expect your parts to perform like higher priced, high quality parts.  That's just a sad fact of gun-world reality. It really is.  Don't expect your 16.5" $100 rail to perform like Daniel Defense rail.  It just won't, most times.

This is continually a thing with you, posting up super-cheap parts, and asking questions about them afterwards, and sometimes even beforehand.  We can't predict how your inexpensive, no-name part will perform, and we can only shake our heads when that same part doesn't perform like higher quality parts do...

If you want predictability based on past recommendations...  "This part does this..."   ...then stop buying the cheapest, closest copy you can. 

I hope you don't take this wrong, but I may be wrong on that...  If you want your rifle to perform, then you need to toss some proven performance parts at it.  Don't expect anything different, when you're doing what you are doing...

Edited December 7, 2017 by 98Z5V

[shepp]

On 12/6/2017 at 11:04 PM, 98Z5V said:

I'm gonna be honest here.

XXL, I keep seeing you post about the cheapest parts that are out there.  Continually. With your incessant bargain shopping, and finding the cheapest parts that are out there, you have to expect some things.

This falls in line with the "Machinist's Rules..."

 

Don't expect your parts to perform like higher priced, high quality parts.  That's just a sad fact of gun-world reality. It really is.  Don't expect your 16.5" $100 rail to perform like Daniel Defense rail.  It just won't, most times.

This is continually a thing with you, posting up super-cheap parts, and asking questions about them afterwards, and sometimes even beforehand.  We can't predict how your inexpensive, no-name part will perform, and we can only shake our heads when that same part doesn't perform like higher quality parts do...

If you want predictability based on past recommendations...  "This part does this..."   ...then stop buying the cheapest, closest copy you can. 

I hope you don't take this wrong, but I may be wrong on that...  If you want your rifle to perform, then you need to toss some proven performance parts at it.  Don't expect anything different, when you're doing what you are doing...

 

On 12/5/2017 at 6:45 PM, xxlfitness@yahoo.com said:

i know HOW to mount it. There are many way depending upon mlock, keymod, picatinney, or the funky single swivel ear like on a rem 700.

I'm talking about how sturdy it is after its mounted. Sounds like I have my answer. Im just going to mount it and run with it. I think the one thing that is throwing me off a bit is that its a 24" barrel and 16 1/2" keymod and a bit longer than most. The longer they get, the more unsupported length there is and the more flex it seems like

Agreed 100$ for a 16” ff, I really wouldn’t expect much from it no offense