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Addressing PA-10 issues


Bluedog225

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3 hours ago, DNP said:

What he said^^^^
 

wooden dowel gives you something to bounce off of when you push through and protects the other side of the barrel. A lot of guys on here have drilled this on their own and been happy with the results. Don’t forget to clean the barrel up well when you’re done. 

Yup wooden dowel prob have a burr inside that will need removed when done. Just don’t damage rifling when removing burr. My barrel was surprisingly easy to drill larger

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2 hours ago, Radioactive said:

Yup wooden dowel prob have a burr inside that will need removed when done.

Don't worry about a burr through the drilled hole.  If you go slow, it probably won't happen.  Even if there is a burr, that first projectile down the pipe is gonna remove any/all burrs present.  Nothing to worry about, in the grand scheme of things. 

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I’ve watched a few videos of this being done freehand.  I was thinking that putting it in the vice might be a mistake as the existing hole is going to guide the bit anyway.  While a press might force it down at the wrong angle.  Thoughts?  Is a press necessary or a bad idea?

 

Thanks

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I may be full of shiit, but I don’t think you can have a bad angle. As long as the top hole is in the right spot, you should be good to go. The gas block is quite a bit larger than the gas port anyways.  Also, with a pilot hole already there for you, it seems like it would take some work to change the path. I am not a machinist, take my thoughts with an extra large grain of salt. 

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When I have to punch a gas port, I do it free-hand, with a hand-held drill.  Either a Makita or Milwaukee, but the drill brand doesn't matter, as long as it's variable speed trigger on that thing.  Keep the speed slow, and light pressure - don't push it hard - let the bit eat. 

This is determining how you affect an explosion, mere inches from your own face when you pull the trigger - but it isn't Rocket Science.  It's just drilling a hole in a piece of metal, larger, where there's already a hole to base this from.  It's easy to do, and you don't need specialized equipment to pull this off.  Under-paid workers and trained monkeys could do this all day long, and PSA proves this every single day. 

Don't over-think it. It's a simple operation. You already have the pilot hole, right there in front of you.

Edited by 98Z5V
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Just now, DNP said:

I never thought someone could have a bigger hard on for a company than @Robocop1051 and CMMG....I was mistaken. 

He's TAME with them, compared to me and this group of "lifetime warranty" shiit-exporters.  They do fine with 5.56, but who doesn't?  They can't make a fully functional .308AR to save their lives, and their Gen 3 proves this in spades - the changes they made in order to make and push that Gen 3 are bullshiit - relieve the ears on the lower, so you can't see the impact marks on the ears on the lower, because of a bad recoil system?  SERIOUSLY?!!?  Yeah, they did it.  Just so they could keep selling shiit recoil systems on their .308ARs, and the GenPop wouldn't notice the MAJOR problems in the recoil system.

Oh, don't get me started, Mister...   :bat:

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  • 2 months later...

Ok.  Long hiatus.  The port is drilled and the buffer is replaced.  Armalite got the gas tube back in stock and I got it yesterday.  

Time to reassemble.  Looks pretty straight forward.  A couple of newbie questions.  

-What is the proper torque on the set screws?  Or do they just get snugged down good?

-Blue locktite, something else, or nothing?  

-Can I reuse the roll pin?  Any tricks to getting that thing set?

-Would someone recommend a brand of headspace gauges?

 

Thanks

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I dimpled the barrel for the gas block then just snugged up the set screws. If you want a thread locker on the gas block use Rock Set. Locktite will loosen with heat and the gas block gets hot.I have reused gas tube pins getting them out just requires the proper roll pin punch.

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2 hours ago, Bluedog225 said:

Thinking about ordering an adjustable gas block while I keep looking for my center punch.

Lots of information across the World Wide Web about the PSA Fan-Bois saying you need an adjustable gas block - because they don't know how to fix the Recoil System, nor their Gas System.  You don't need an adjustable gas block - unless you'll supress it, like Rex stated.  Adjustable gas blocks are Band-Aids for fucked up Recoil Systems and Gas Systems, in non-suppressed guns. Or, strictly for use in Race Guns, to tune a specific custom load for competition.  Otherwise, they're just a Band-Aid for wrong shiit in your gun.  No suppressor?  No Race Gun that you're making money with?   Waste of time AND money.

Don't Complicate Shiit, with Complicated Shiit... 

Edited by 98Z5V
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Works for me.  Thanks everyone.

Before I sign out, would anyone recommend a good, mid-level platform?  The one I should have bought.  I might be interested in another while I still can. Maybe one of the site sponsors.  I’m willing to put the order in and wait.

Thanks again.

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Had the chance to go out and test my work today. 

Got about 12 rounds off total.  4 of them failed to eject properly.  Ended up with the primer end of the brass stuck in the action and jammed up with the fresh round.

I’ll go back and verify all my work.  

The extractor looks fine and moves fine.  Firm pressure from spring and two o-rings.  Freshly cleaned.  Fair amount of chewed up brass from the 12 rounds.

The ejector moves freely and gives firm pressure.

Previously, it worked with no issues for 30-40 rounds fresh out of the box from the factory. 

I’ll need to go back and check for the specific measurements.  At a high level, my work consisted of:

-Heavy buffer and spring from Clint

-verified depth of buffer tube

-drilled gas port to recommended size

-replaced gas tube with Armalite carbine length tube

If there is anything specific I need to look at, I’d appreciate the advice.

Thanks

Tom

PS-Federal XM80C

 

 

 

Edited by Bluedog225
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I’ve got a spare bolt carrier group.  It’s been years since I picked it up (paperwork mia) but pretty sure it is DPMS pattern.  Looks identical to the PSA BCG.  

Is headspace the critical measurement to determine whether it is safe to switch it out as part of diagnosing my failure to eject issue?

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

MY PSA supplied bolt would NOT headspace with 2 different barrels. The original PSA stainless barrel AND the Faxon pencil barrel I installed later. Kept having case head separations on starting-level loads. The bolt would go into full battery on a NOGO gage. Replaced the bolt and fixed instantly. When you check the headspace be sure to remove the ejector. I also removed the extractor to be doubly sure that all I could "feel" would be actual headspace.

Also to those who come along and read this later, if Armalite is out of stock on the 12 1/16" gas tubes, do a search for LBE Unlimited gas tubes. I found plenty of those in stock at various places when Armalite tubes were unobtanium.

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1 hour ago, mtrmn said:

Also to those who come along and read this later, if Armalite is out of stock on the 12 1/16" gas tubes, do a search for LBE Unlimited gas tubes. I found plenty of those in stock at various places when Armalite tubes were unobtanium.

This right here is EXCELLENT information - I've used LBE before, when I couldn't get the AR-10 Carbine gas tube - and the LBE part is Dead Nuts ON...  the money.  :thumbup:

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