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Posted

I know there is a post to cover the first question but I cannot find it.  How much torque should I use on a DPMS Quad rail barrel nut?  I thought I read somewhere hand tight then 30 foot pounds then 40 foot pounds then adjust for the gas tube.

Second question I got the Barrel, 18.5", .308 AR, Medium Weight, 1x10, Stainless, Match Quality, FA by Criterion barrel.  While I am going to use it for target shooting I feel like I should Duracoat it flat black to make it more tactical.  What do you think?  <munch>

Posted

1. I use "hand tight", then wrench it no more than 1.5 holes. Meaning; If you are almost to the next hole, pass it up and go to the second hole. That's a fair, poor-man's, torque wrench. You can go as high as 80-90 lbs on a decent receiver, with no issues.

The problem that arises when you apply too much torque is that supposedly the pressure put on the barrel nub, from the notch in the receiver, causes the barrel to stress upwards... In theory  <dontknow> ... I would be more worried about stressing the threads too much and caused cracks (and eventually breaking) at the most important portion of the rifle. 

2. "Tactical" or "[glow=green,2,300]Tacti-Cool[/glow]"? I'm sure everyone in the world will agree that Noveske Rifleworks makes one of the most renown "tactical" rifles used today... All of their barrels are stainless. Need I say more?

If you have one of the polished stainless barrels, and you think that look is too flashy, trying dulling it up with some steel wool first. Some WD40 and a thorough rub down will put a dull sheen on that shine.

***Disclaimer: Don't let anyone here tell you how you "have" to make your rifle. In the end, none of us are shooting it and none of us are paying the bill. The reason you picked the AR format rifle is for the customization of it. Make it however you like, and be 100% satisfied with the fact that it was exactly what YOU wanted. When the time comes, Man Law requires you show us lots of pictures of your masterpiece <thumbsup>

Posted

^^^  He DEFINITELY wins this essay contest.  <thumbsup> <laughs>

I concur - with all of it.

* Footnote - torque on the barrel nut should be 30~80lb/ft.

Posted

Proper grease on the barrel nut threads & tighten ,loosen three times before the final gas tube line up .  On the third , you can line up the gas tube passage in the upper receiver.

Other than that , as said above .

Posted

***Disclaimer: Don't let anyone here tell you how you "have" to make your rifle. In the end, none of us are shooting it and none of us are paying the bill. The reason you picked the AR format rifle is for the customization of it. Make it however you like, and be 100% satisfied with the fact that it was exactly what YOU wanted. When the time comes, Man Law requires you show us lots of pictures of your masterpiece <thumbsup>

Very well put Robocop! <thumbsup>

Posted

Thanks for the great information.  The information on this site has helped a lot on this build.  Pictures will be posted when the build is complete.  I only need a muzzle break/Comp, rail mount sling adapter and a set of head space gauges.  Should have it finished some time next month.

So far the build includes:

DPMS Lower (I assembled)

DPMS Carbine Tube, spring and

Buffer Tec AR-.308 Shorty Collapsible AR-Restor

Magpul CTR® Carbine Stock – Commercial-Spec Model

DPMS Upper (Assembled)

Fuller Armory chrome Bolt Carrier Group

Barrel, 18.5", .308 AR, Medium Weight, 1x10, Stainless, Match Quality, FA by Criterion

Gas Block, f/Varmint or Match Rifle, Compression Fit and gas tube

DPMS Quad Rail

Magpul Rail Covers

Nikon ProStaff 3-9x40 Matte BDC

Leaper’s riser for the scope

Harris Bi pod

Posted

Looks like it's going to end up very similar to my build - and I love this one.  <thumbsup>

Excellent choice in components, my good man. 

308CurrentMods4.jpg

Posted

Looks good except for one thing:

Leaper’s riser for the scope

If you use a riser in conjunction with your scope mount you're going to put that scope pretty high over the bore, which could lead to some zeroing and elevation issues. You also listed a CTR buttstock. With the scope being that high off the receiver, you might have trouble gaining/maintaining a good cheek weld due to the slimness of the butt stock. Since your purpose for this rifle is target shooting, I would look at Magpul's PRS stock or as a compromise the ACS or UBR butt stocks. Plus the added weight of the butt stock will help balance out your rifle.

Posted

Thanks for the suggestions.  I will have to add a cheek riser to the list.  I have been using risers for quite a while with success.  I did not want the DPMS upper that had a riser built in though.  My build was inspired by the LMT.308 Modular Weapon System, and the SWAT article I found here on this site.  With that said, I went with the Magpul CTR stock instead of the Magpul PRS stock.  The cost savings also enabled me to buy another part .  <thumbsup>

Posted

With a 40mm bell diameter on the scope you're running, you could look into the Armalite one-piece scope mount that I'm running.  My scope is a 40mm bell, also.  Keeps it pretty close to the bore, about as close as you can get.  I still needed to get my head position up some, off the old A2 stock I was running, and that's when I went with the buttstock config in the pic above.  A1 stock from Fulton Armory, along with the Sierra Precision adjustable buttplate (also picked that up from Fulton, in the same order as the A1 stock), dropped down a little bit.  That did it for me.  The key ingredient is getting that scope as close to the bore as you can.

With the CTR, you will need to get your head up some, even if you run the Armalite mount I mentioned.  The LaRue RISR will do it.  <thumbsup>

  • 2 weeks later...

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