FaRKle! Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 EXACTLY or you have the same issue I did with my recent install. Even Noveske on the NSR Rail, states to use a grease on the barrel nut threads and you may need to tighten loosen.Thier brand specific Torque specs are 40-80 lbs. Mine was done at like 35 and after 100 rnds of frustration it came loose. Redone to 80 and wnd Ill be at the range this weekend. I'll post thr results on my other thread as not to thread jack ^-^My NSR installs have been on the high side of the torque range as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 My NSR installs have been on the high side of the torque range as well. Not just the high side. If I remember correctly, we maxed that rail at like 80 or 85. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaRKle! Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Not just the high side. If I remember correctly, we maxed that rail at like 80 or 85.Yup, and later when I sold that rail to Ryan it came out to 75-80 on his too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray05 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 I got a more detailed response from SI. "Sometimes it is impossible to hit the required minimum torque specification of 35lbs-ft and still have the gas tube hole line up with the clearance in the nut. Anti-seize is an alternative, however, it acts as a lubricant and the amount of torque required dry, differs from amount needed for "wet" applications. Usually you will need more torque under "lubricated" conditions." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Might I suggest a barrel nut shim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray05 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Might I suggest a barrel nut shim? I didn't know that existed but I would think that would do fine for the contingency they are describing. Now that I understand when they would use loctite, I'm definitely going with a grease or anti-seize. I don't even know if my barrel but will be the type that has the gas tube run through it or not. If alignment issues did occur I guess loctite or a shim would take care of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Here's an example of a set for an AR15. I'm sure there are 308AR ones available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebra644 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Yep it's called a trip to Home Depot / Lowes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 (edited) ^^^ Those Spikes barrel nut shims came with the Big A$s Rail when it first came out - don't know if they still do or not, but I'd be that they do still include that. You clocked your barrel nut and checked it's gas tube position without a shim - the hole had to line up about 45-degrees out from top dead center, before tightening. If I remember that right... Anyways, if it didn't, you added a shim, until you got it right. Once you had it right, at the "pre-tighten" spot, you applied torque and lined it up - perfect torque every time. I still have some of those shims left over for a 5.56 gun, and I've thought about using them on builds after that... but I just torqued those on and went with it. The shims are good stuff, though. You could have a rifle with high torque on the nut, shim it, and still line up perfectly at lower torque. <thumbsup> Edited March 11, 2014 by 98Z5V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 I'm starting to think a replaceable crush washer (aluminum or copper) would probably be better. It would start to deform at the correct torque and still give some allowance in the "crush" to allow the barrel nut to align. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaRKle! Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 I'm starting to think a replaceable crush washer (aluminum or copper) would probably be better. It would start to deform at the correct torque and still give some allowance in the "crush" to allow the barrel nut to align. I don't know about that... Crush washers don't crush very evenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnatshooter Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 Seems to my inexpert opinion that a crush washer designed to crush, such as washers made from crushable aluminum and copper, will continue to crush after torquing when they're being slammed by shooting. Leading you to replace the crushing washers. The farm boy in me says, steel washers, no crush, tight fit, tighten to spec and be careful of anything that's a casting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 hmmmm.....the barrel nut has been on the ar since like forever...why try to reinvent the wheel? its just cant be that hard to tighten down the barrel nut at a value from 40 to 80 pounds. A simple bubba fix is if you just cant get the nut to the next notch and have the torque value that you are comfortable with is to put down a piece of wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface and put the nut on it and sand a thou or so off the nut...it will then get you to where it needs to be....easy peasy :) Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 hmmmm.....the barrel nut has been on the ar since like forever...why try to reinvent the wheel? its just cant be that hard to tighten down the barrel nut at a value from 40 to 80 pounds. A simple bubba fix is if you just cant get the nut to the next notch and have the torque value that you are comfortable with is to put down a piece of wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface and put the nut on it and sand a thou or so off the nut...it will then get you to where it needs to be....easy peasy :) Wash Can't do that - the interference surface is on the inside. The lip on the barrel nut that mates up against the flange on the barrel. No sanding possible for that one. If it will not go, the answer is the indexing shims. Crush washers do crush, but they're not gonna stand up to the heat that the chamber creates. That's why you don't use a crush washer on a muzzle device that a suppressor attaches to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolndie7 Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 We could just all mix and match our nuts until everybody is happy :banana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 We could just all mix and match our nuts until everybody is happy :banana: ^^ <lmao> <laughs> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 ^^ <lmao> <laughs> mine couldnt stand the 80 lbs of torque! <laughs> Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 My ex tried it,it wasn't that bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 (edited) My ex tried it,it wasn't that bad. My ex still has mine ! :puke: Wash Edited March 11, 2014 by washguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebra644 Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 I have to get mine out of he safe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cantshootafish Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 The shims are awesome to keep your torque down to a level that does not break the upper. Just be sure to grease them first so that the barrel nut can slide over them as it rotates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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