Gray05 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 http://www.henkelna.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797952638977 I've read conflicting information on using red loctite on the gas block set screws. Some say it works great, while others say a gas block is way too hot for red (262) loctite. The data sheet on that web page seems to show that strength declines after reaching about 40°C. Which is pretty low. Am I reading that right? Anyway. Any wisdom on the topic would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaRKle! Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) Red (271) or blue (242) loctite will be just fine on low-pro gas block screws. Both of their spec sheets state to heat to 250C for removal if you can't do it by hand at first. It doesn't take that much to hold a gas block screw from backing out, and from my own experience if you degrease the screw and block and put a good coat of blue 242 on the screw, you'll still need a torch to heat it up enough to remove it.BCM uses Red 271 on their gas blocks and I've never heard of any issues with them coming loose. Edited March 19, 2014 by FaRKle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 The way I understand it red for 3/16" and up blue for smaller.Red on smaller hardware will be tough to remove if you had to.I would be concerned with the amount of heat needed to remove small hardware put on with red.But that is just me.I have broken a 3/8" allen that was put on with red.I wasn't able to get alot of heat on it either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texas30cal Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Don't use the 262, it states on the bottle " heat and or special tools needed for removal" , it's waayyy too much!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Go to your local Suzuki motorcycle dealer, and pick up some Suzuki green loctite. It's Suzuki 1303. Thats the schit they use for safety items, like footpeg bolts. Heat IS required for that schit. The Loc-Tite brand equivalent is 290. Other than that, the only other product I use is RockSett. RockSett is used on flash suppressors that are suppressor hosts. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/thread-locking-liquids/rocksett-prod54624.aspx As far as heating to remove small screws, that EASY. Stick the end of your cheapo soldering iron on the exposed tip of the screw for about 30 seconds, the loctite or RockSett isn't a problem. The screws can be removed easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Great idea with the soldering iron...never thought of that.That what happens when you "roam the world". <thumbsup> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texas30cal Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Never thought of that either, I always use fire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 It's brilliant,don't have to worry about burning up the finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray05 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Good info guys. I assume all of this applies equally to installing a flash suppressor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Armory Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Heat gun / very powerful hair dryer ! Use them in the shop and at home. Harbor freight $12.99. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Good info guys. I assume all of this applies equally to installing a flash suppressor? No need for it on a muzzle device, unless that muzzle device is a suppressor host. On a standard muzzle device, that's what the crush washer or peel washer is for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaRKle! Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 No need for it on a muzzle device, unless that muzzle device is a suppressor host. On a standard muzzle device, that's what the crush washer or peel washer is for.Seconded, although some muzzle devices do come with some sort of thread-locker (my MAMS came with Rocksett), I haven't seen a need for it if you torque the device down accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I had to use loc-tite on my PRI brake , no crush washer or locking nut . I had them special make one the same dia. as my 20" HB & only needed a .002" shim ( I made )to index it correctly, you can hardly tell its not part of the barrel . It would loosen every range trip . I called them & they said use blue loc-tite on it , which I was going to do any way, but I had to ask what they used & its been on there for years with out loosening . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsquared Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 I'm with 98 on this one (shocker) Rocksett is the way to go. You don't need much though. Like with KY.....just a dab will do ya (unless suppressor host's). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cantshootafish Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Lacquer thinner will also dissolve loctite red if you want to clean everything before reassembling or put it on the threads before you take it apart to make it easier. A big soldering iron really sounds ideal for disassembly after using the red though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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