survivalshop

The 65 Motor ready to go back into the frame . & the 48 Motor almost all together .

And photo's will follow , I'm sure . right ?

I believe most Companies & individuals use the term AR 10 when talking about a 308AR , because it represents the big bore AR ,differentiates it from its little brother , yes there are differences & is why most like to define which 308AR you have because of the components differences , but its an easy term to use & you know right off the bat , if someone says AR10 , its a big bore . Armalite AR 10 owner's , I believe, are a little snobby about the use of the term & actually should be proud of the term being used in reference to their rifle's . There are many 308AR's made by many Manufacturers & to say this one or that one is better , no matter where their name came from , is lost at the gun range .?

Here's a video on Receiver strengths , read the comments section. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Zzw7XaBZM Here is one on broach cutting the Mag well .https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CY9Cb9YqOR4&app=desktop

I think you may find that the Gap in the Hand Guard/Upper Receiver ,is all about how their Barrel Nut is made . You could alter their Barrel Nut , to take up the Gap , but may make the Nut lose some integrity. You would have to take material off the inside seating flange & as much off the the end of Nut , so it would not bind up against the Upper Receiver, before it Torqued the Barrel down. There are , as I brought up before , some reasons why they made it that way . I like my Midwest , ALG , & JP hand Guards & both my JP's have a slight gap , but the Rails are add on's & the holes for the screws are oblong , so as to make minor Rail adj. , for the rail to butt up to the Upper's Rail .

My 16" HB & my 20" HB , shoot almost the same out to 200 yards , all the range I have , the 20" is more consistent , but that's to be expected , its made for a bench , more or less . My 18" is a lighter Barrel & is still under testing & as soon as I get these two Harley's together , I will have a shoot out with all three. All three are 308 Criterion Barrels .

Ya ,what he said . I have both types & which ever you get , try to buy the same Upper Receiver to match .

As far as the Gap , my JP hand guards all have a gap , other brands of Hand Guards I have , do not & as you said , its not much of a gap , some want them to butt up the the Upper Receiver rail ( looks ? ), I guess they should look into another rail system . There is probably a reason for the Fortis rail system , not butting up with the Upper . The Barrel Nut torquing , some use a Torque wrench & some don't . With the type of barrel nut used by Fortis , there is nothing to keep the Barrel Nut from backing off , like notches in the Barrel Nut for the Gas Tube to pass through . If torqued properly , it should not move , I say shouldn't , but we all know $hit happens & if Barrel Nut not tight enough , its possible it may back off , but you should see the Hand Guard twist out of alignment , because its clamped to the Barrel Nut.

We have had some that say theirs , do not meet & there's a gap . Interesting .

The Hand Guard is basically the Barrel Nut & it will screw off the same way , but I'll be willing to bet it is loctited on in some way , which is why heat was mentioned to help remove it . Or there may be a cinch nut holding the actual hand guard on & by removing it & the Hand Guard , the Barrel Nut can be seen & Removed . There isn't much on that Hand Guard , any where I looked , but my guess is its a one piece Hand Guard / Barrel nut .

To me , it was all about Superman tasting some humble pie , the arrogant POS. The game was great !

Denver Defense ? I think I saw SuperMan cry .?

That type of Hand Guard is meant to be semi permanent, meaning not normally removed for normal cleaning of the Rifle . The Hand Guard & Barrel Nut look like they are one piece , the slots you see on the side of the nut are what appears to be for a Spanner Wrench , for removal/install . Why remove it if not needed , unless you want to replace it . That hand Guard looks real close to being able to pass that Gas Block , may not have to remove it .

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You have various attachment points on the stock , those slots in the stock are for the sling strap . Just thread the strap through one as you would a sling swivel .

Clearly the Cartridge is not seating in the Bolt Face , Too stiff of an Ejector or Extractor will not let the Cartridge Base seat into the Bolt Face or as said above about the Ejector . I agree , the JP SB is not on my list of Buffer assemblies to use .

You could have started a new thread on this if you wanted too , this one is a little old , but resurrecting old threads don't bother me at all . What stock system are you running , a Carbine or Rifle stock ? If your Buffer is sticking in the Receiver Extension ( Buffer tube ) it may just as simple as needing more Lubricant . Is your 7 3/4" measurement on the inside of the Receiver Extension or outside measurement ? Your Buffer is the length for a DPMS type 308AR carbine , how long is your spring & how many coils in it ?

One is still mine , the other is the one I sold & he wanted to have the Tins repainted & while he was at it wanted an Upper end job , so I pulled the upper end & sent it to Kirby at V-Twin performance down here . ( Deland,Fl. , same town as Tactical Machining , but they have nothing in stock ) The Lower end is from my 65 & I had a Valve Guide leaking also & come to find the bottom end was gone also , so I took the whole Motor to him for refreshing , New Valves ,Guides , Springs ( was getting coil bind with this Cam ) , .30 over breather , S&S connecting rods & Pistons ( to go along with the S&S stroker fly wheels ), all new lower end bearings. I was getting odd oil pressure readings & changed to a new Billet S&S oil Pump , but it was too late , evidently I already lost the Pump & it did a nice job on ruining a motor that only had 350 miles on the clock . Not sure what is bad on the original pump ( cast Iron ) but I should have upgraded when I had the motor done years ago . All new again , I may just keep this one . & no , its not stock !

Looks like I have to take a break from building rifles , for a bit .

Nice looking rifle . I would replace the Bolts Extractor & Ejector assemblies ( springs also) first or one assem. at a time ,or just a complete bolt , depends on what you want to spend or have available . Too slippery , not sure on that one , I would think it would help. I can see a too tight or binding Extractor or Ejector , keeping the cartridge base from seating correctly , more than too slick , but you never know , we have seen a lot of issues with NIB Bolts here , some just need time to seat them selfs . The above has a good suggestion , because I have a new Bolt that will not function properly in one 308AR , the one it was built with ,but two other Bolts work fine with the Rifle .

Thats good to hear , now you have to take care of it . ?

I got my AR 15 Bro Upper Receiver to go with my Lower Receiver that I have had for a couple of years ( both Billet ) & the fit & finish on the Receiver is the best I have ever seen the ,way the lines & features flow from the Upper to the Lower are just stunning . Hard to believe these were made almost three years apart , because they match up so beautiful, shows there QC is spot on . I will start a build thread some where when I decide what barrel to use .

Ya , I remember them guys walk back ten feet to set them off too .?

Am I to understand that you load a 50 cal. cartridge into the chamber & screw a cap on it , to contain it ? May be I'm to careful & I know some Muzzle loader rifle use a Breach Plug , but I find it kinda scary .