survivalshop

Send in back for a full refund if possible & start over . If not, there are plenty of ideas in this thread to help you make the rifle work reliably . We are here to help fellow 308AR owners & builders .

I don't care , I do not take what Snopes says as fact, I don't trust them .

Ordered, Thanks

I sent you a PM.

You have to try them , I have not heard of anyone mating those two Receiver Brands together . Might not have any issues , you won't know till you the safety checks to see if any initial issues . My Experience & a lot of it from here, is, just because a manufacturer makes a specific pattern Receiver, doesn't mean it will be of the same spec's as the one its copying & sometimes they don't play well together .

I would get a PMag , less expensive than a AR 10 Mag & as said is used with that Lower Receiver ( unless the Receiver you have is actually set up as the AR 10 ), that being said , its all experimental , might work with out a issue , ya never know .

Disclaimer :The strap wrench is a good idea , I was joking about the Chain type , just so every one knows.?

Naw , you need the one with a chain ?

If you use quality components there should be no issues . I will only use same manufacturers Receivers set , we see problems with tolerance stacking issues when using different manufacturers Upper & Lower Receivers . When you do its a crap shoot , some work & mate well some don't . I have had good experiences with using DPMS manufactured Lowers & Tactical Machining Upper Receivers , but had issues with what Magazine was used in an early CMMG Lower & SI Defense Upper receiver , which since has been alleviated by MagPul coming out with the Gen 3 Mags for the 308AR , the combo will not function reliably with the first Gen PMag. Some BCG's are also causing some issues , the NIB coatings on some manufacturers BCG's are too thick or out of spec. & can cause issues before breaking in with round count . You have to realize there is no MilSpec on the 308AR's out there , so no spec's on how each component is manufactured like the AR 15 . Some manufacturers make their products proprietary , so you need their components to have the rifle function correctly or its fitment . Buffer assembly is also something you want to pay attention to , stick with the same group of components , DPMS or AR 10 , keep the system components all one or the other & you will be good , mix & match can cause issues. Since you are building a Rifle , from various manufacturers components , some fitment may be needed , you don't have the luxury of a Manufactured rifle that the manufacturer has spent $$ on R&D to make sure all the Components fit & fiction together , so a production line worker can assemble & it goes out the door a somewhat flawlessly working rifle . You are basically a custom gunsmith making a custom rifle & experience is what will make a reliable rifle . If you read the build section , you will see a lot of issues that come up & most are easily remedied & some are not .

Well, worse case , you have good brass to reload , as you said . Have you tried any of this fodder , how unstable can the Bullet get after it leaves the Barrel & passes through the Suppressor ? Your Suppressor is, how long ? I don't buy that it will be that unstable , Call or Email Remington & have the Box of Ammo Handy for any details they ( Remington ) may require . They should say if its OK the Shoot it through a Suppressor or not .

That does sound like a good deal .

What its say on the Base of the case ? Those Bullets look like they have been Swaged to make the pointy end . I have some Nosler 155 gr. Match bullets that show signs of it , but nothing like that . Also looks like a Lee Factory Crimp on them , but I have seen MilSpec with the same crimp markings.

If you ordered a true Nato HS Gage , yes . The issue we have discussed here is, it depends on who made your barrel . As Mrraley points out in his Technical thread for Armalite HS , Armalite uses actual 7.62x51 Chamber spec's . a lot of the other Barrel manufacturers use hybrid Chambers for their marked 7.62x51 Barrels & unless you get their spec's for a HS Gage , no HS Gage will be perfectly correct for their Chambers. Its why I use a 308 HS Gage's for testing , because basically the 7.62x51 is a 308 chamber . Just look at the differences in the two & where they are different dimension wise . Now if I was going check a AR 10's, HS , I would use a Nato 7.62x51 HS Gage set , because I know its what is used to finish the chamber. Winchester introduced the .308 cartridge to the sporting world in 1952, and was adopted as the official U.S. Military cartridge in 1954, even though there were, at that time, no suitable military weapon adopted nor chambered for the round. The early military nomenclature was T-65, which was still technically an ‘experimental’ cartridge and rifle, having not yet been adopted. When the trials finally came to a halt, the .308 Winchester was adopted into the U.S. Military as the 7.62x51mm, later accepted by NATO, and known as the 7.62x51mm NATO. The external dimensions of the .308 Winchester and the 7.60x51 NATO cartridge are identical in every way, and completely interchangeable, the differences being the web of the military cartridge is thicker near the base, creating a lower internal capacity, thus necessitating a smaller powder charge to achieve identical ballistics, and a slightly larger chamber dimension, due to the nature of military use; dirt, dust, mud, and sand inevitably being ever-present on the battlefield.

I would like to know if an AR 10 Upper receiver mate ok with a Matrix Lower . The Lower Receiver will determine which Mag. is used , but I wonder if the two different manufacturers may have some tolerance stacking & cause issues . I have a Early CMMG Lower that doesn't function reliably with first PMags , it will with any other Mag & it works with the new Gen 3 Pmags , they sit a little higher in the Mag Well . Let us know how it turns out .

I know where your coming from on that one , I was an Admiral once, I was paying two boat payments till I sold the smaller one .??

https://dsgarms.com

I Crimp on a separate operation from seating the Bullet , I have seen issues where crimping & seating can cause issues . Also Case length has to be uniform from case to case for a traditional roll crimp to set correctly , a Taper crimp doesn't have that same issue , you will feel it more or less stop, its like putting a wedge into the Die. Case brand has a lot to do with it also , case thickness can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer & sometimes even with the same manufacturer . All Crimping should be done using feel more than mechanical stop . The Collet type Lee factory crimp , crimps in a different way then a Roll crimp & the way you set it up is how it sets max crimp . I have nothing against the Lee , it puts a good crimp & if set right , is uniform . My concern is that looking at cases that were crimped on non- cannelure Bullets is I can actually see a line where the crimp was after resizing , on the inside of the case & to me that may have weakened the case . Case mouth separation will ruin your range day . I have tested many different crimps & non crimped cases & found the Taper Crimp gives me the most uniform Ballistics then other crimping methods . With an auto fed firearm I want some kind of crimp , just neck tension , to me is not enough . How do you know any Bullet stays where you set it at when fed & fired , well , you don't , but having a Crimp will at least add to the safety factor that the Bullet won't be set back , more so than just Neck Tension .

I raised my daughter when she was just a little thing & used to help me clean my firearms & took her hunting & was some of the best memories I have of her , then I sent her to Collage & the POS Commie's turned her with their Brain washing system . I still believe I raised her right & she will eventually come back around . ?? She was going to get all mine , but now I think my Nephews are going to get some each , of course that will be up to the wife , I won't be here any more , so really won't care .?

Thats a great offer , no shims or washers, makes for a very clean & functional look.

Hunting ammo , I always put a crimp on it , I went back to a Taper Crimp ( with or with out a Cannelure), I was noticing case neck damage with the Lee Factory crimp , it leaves a ring around it & IMO would shorten an already short case length . Taper crime is hard to screw up a case , only a light crimp is required to press the case mouth uniformity around the Bullet , another benefit of a Taper Crimp is Bullet alignment with the case . Problem with crushing the shoulder of the case when crimping is all operator error . I did it a lot when I first started reloading for the .223 , till I went to Taper Crimp , but I guess you can set back the shoulder if you crimp too much on that also .

DPMS type Upper ? DPMS Has some good shooting barrels , but I would go with a custom built barrel for long range & I wouldn't skimp on it , You get what you pay for , lot of Barrel makers who are on they sight , Criterion ( my flavor ) Faxon firearms ,Ballistic Advantage , just to name a few . I see a guy with a review on Fulton Armory's web sight that had a 3" group @ 1K yards with one of their Titian rifles with a 24"Barrel http://www.fulton-armory.com

A back nut or jam nut might work also , that way you can put it where you want & lock it down with the nut .

Now there's a warranty !

You should not have an issue if you keep all Buffer assembly components ( Receiver Extension ,Buffer & Spring , all the same group , be it a DPMS or an AR10 set up . Some here like the longer AR 10 system , but the DPMS system works also. There are other Buffers & Buffer Springs out there if you want to custom tune the Action , not to mention , Adjustable Gas Blocks .