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survivalshop

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Everything posted by survivalshop

  1. DPMS type , steel mag , I believe . I personally have never had one in my hand , so that's from what I have read.
  2. What bothers me is they worked in the 38 special , why not two different 9 MM 's . I did get the primers to go off , but it took a small hammer & punch . I know they are not in the primer pocket to contain the primer when I put them on my vice to pop them ,but still seemed to take a lot & they had already been hit several times with a firing pin in the primer pocket . At least I know they are not contaminated & that would have been me or some thing I did . I have always used WW or CCI primers & it looks like these are staying with the 38 special . Just means I have to get more primers now , may be a good thing .
  3. survivalshop

    BCG

    Home > FAR-308 "Titan" > FAR-308 Upper Parts > Bolt Carrier, Titan, Chrome, with Chrome Key Bolt Carrier, Titan, Chrome, with Chrome Key Loading zoom.. Price: $179.95 Part #: FA-TU-017k In Stock Quantity: * Whole number only Here's the carrier , look to others for the bolt . Do I need to find that for ya also <laughs>
  4. Not sure if you would really want to take the finish off that area (steel against aluminum ) I use a different method of checking to make sure the face is square , ya just want to make sure it has no imperfections in the finish. This method has been around a while & I have not seen any scientific data of it to say it does any thing to the accuracy of the rifle . The only thing I have seen is some one saying how much better the rifle shoots after pulling the bbl. off & doing it , hardly scientific. If you think the rifle will shoot better doing it , go for it . Kinda makes ya wonder what effects this procedure has on Head spacing . Not to mention getting lapping compound in the upper receiver's barrel extension area. I liked the one person here that used a sanding disk , cut to the face dia. of the tool . No way you can get the wrong area lapped , that way.
  5. I went by Tactical Machining & picked up a 300BLK lower to replace the POF multi cal I have . Nice place ,very busy & I didn't stay long , only long enough to fill out the ATF forms . They are going larger , with a show rm & were under construction, so I will go back in a month or so to take some when they are settled in. The lower is very nicely done ,. like there uppers . It did have a red sheen to it & they said to oil it before taking a photo & when I put the lower on one of there uppers , it was like night & day until I oiled it & that nice satin black came out & matched the upper perfectly in color. I have another TM upper I put on my Org. preban Oly. lower & its is tight , not so with the TM upper & lower , while I would not call them loose , they fit good. Check the photo's ,very well put together lower, no marks or imperfections I can see. If ya need photo's of the inside ,let me know I already installed a trigger group in & will be assembling the rest this week & also notice It came with a free winter trigger guard ,made of aluminum.
  6. I went to Dayton for the weekend & on the way down there ,I stopped in at TM & would have taken photo's ,but they are in the midst of remodeling , going bigger with a show rm . They said call back in a month to see if construction is done . I could have taken photos of the machine shop , but said I wanted it all ,including staff , so we will have to wait. He did say they just got there 308 upper back from the finisher to check it out & they should be available this spring for sale . I did pick up a 300BLK lower to change my POF Multi cal out , photo's in the 300BLK section.
  7. I got this from some where else . I hope it shows up.
  8. Not sure how to start , but all you mention is normal . If the rifle is 100% reliable , whats to fix , brass was never meant to be used again , so it only would matter to those of us who reload & I have not seen any thing yet to stop me from reloading any of it. I had some from my 16" that were bent from the BCG smashing them up against the feed ramp & just pulled the bullet , removed the powder & re-sized ,put the powder back in & bullet & the case was like new when fired .This from a CMMG lower that will not feed with P-mags , no problem with any steel mag , just Pmags . If you want to put a heavy buffer in , well that's up to you . It may or may not help with normal wear of the components. Some say it will help in reducing recoil , not sure about that one . The marks on the case are normal , from the barrel extension locking lugs .
  9. I'm going to let you guy's try them first . They do look appealing . <laughs>
  10. Make sure of your rail heights match the hand guards . The newer DPMS rail heights on there 308's uppers were lowered a few years ago & some hand guard rails heights are not compatible .(looks or BUIS ) Just ask JD if they match the newer 308 DPMS uppers.(If you plan on using rails that is )
  11. The DPMS 308's bolt stops are much larger than a std AR 15's. I think the Armalite firing pin is spring loaded & might make a difference in what Hammer you use .
  12. Until I get my other trigger pull gage back , all I can say is its over 4#. Nice trigger set though . The photo's were taken last night @ 0100 hrs & they don't do the finish any justice.
  13. Why wouldn't the lower DPMS parts group be compatible with an Armilite BCG ? Or for that matter Ma-ten.
  14. I just got a Nickel Boron trigger set from spikes & put it in my 16" AR308 & since my trigger scale doesn't got high enough to compare both the STD set up or the spikes set , all I can say is they are nicely done & it does feel much smoother . Notice there are some differences between the triggers & hammers , disconnect & also the pins .
  15. I have been having problems with some Rem. sp primers in my 9mm pistols . They had no problem firing in my wifes 38+P rounds , just my 9's that I took to the range yesterday & it has not been just yesterday . I have had problems with them before & just thought it was some thing I was doing . I did find out before , that reloading & priming on my Dillon , some of the primers on a certain brand of 9mm , was not depriming & when I thought I was priming , I was just pushing the spent primer back into the case . Extending the decaping pin , made no difference after I found what was going on by pulling the bullets & finding a spent primer in there (a good reason why I hand prime my cases ) The ones I pulled yesterday had a perfectly good Rem. primer in there (except for the firing pin dent )I used two different 9mm pistols to see if they would ignite , but they wouldn't . Any one else have any problems with these primers ? I got them last year , I have twenty year old primers & have no problems with & I have Rem. bench rest sm rifle primers I use & work fine . Why did I not have problems with the 38's ? This is a head scratcher , I see no difference in reloading technique , I make sure I don't ever touch a primer with my hand/fingers. They go from the box to the hand primer & into the case , no touching !
  16. Did you check head space to actually see if it is affecting it ? . If you were using an AR 15 Spring & Buffer , I can see that making abnormal wear on the bolt & the bolt is a wear item .It should be replaced if showing abnormal wear or damage.
  17. They also have a light weight barrel , chrome lined & blackened or phosphate with a RL gas system . I have another 308 build going on now & I will be putting the S/S 18.5 barrel on ,as in the above post. I just like S/S Mid wt. barrels.
  18. They sell the tapered reamers at Midway ,now finding a jig or making one will be a challenge, but doable.
  19. Its all about chamber dimensions & unless you really have a tight 308 chamber (some DPMS ) some milspec from other countries may be tight in the chamber , but it doesn't mean a hill of beans . The commercial 308 in some cases is loaded to a higher chamber pressure , but all modern barrel steels will take the small chamber pressure difference, be it 308 Or 7.62x51 . I put only 7.62 chambered barrels on my AR 308's & they shoot sub moa with out a problem . I was just out today & all who shot my 20" couldn't believe how accurate it was .( with my hand loads , of course )
  20. Exactly how did he not tell any one about your barrel ? What kind of outfit doesn't make order forms or work orders for production ? That has some smell to it . Hope they do better now ,but you get to start the wait all over again & that sucks .
  21. Photo's of complete build ? Stop teasing us .
  22. Damn it, it didn't go through . I had to order it all again & of course ,I had to add to it . I e-mailed them & they said there was no order from me , so I did it again last night & only one item was not in stock ,but no big deal on that one. I got a confirm right away & also e-mailed them , so should be GTG. This is like four years ago with ammo & components.
  23. I also like Nikon scopes & the new ones coming out for 308's are nice , but to keep to your list . I have a Millet TRS 1 on my 20" & I like it . Clear optics & built like a tank ( weighs as much as one also)
  24. The only place I would be worried about getting any lubricant is in the chamber . You shouldn't pack it like a wheel bearing any way , so a little grease on the locking lugs is your friend , maybe not in all environments or temperature ranges ,but a good thing when breaking in a new rifle . I've been using Gun Slick grease for a long time & no problems .
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