survivalshop

The jam nut serves two purposes , 1- to align the gas ports in the comp/brake , 2- to lock the comp/brake in place . Do not be afraid to use a small amount of loc tite on the threads . I have a custom PRI brake that is shimmed with shim stock ,0.002 " is all it took to index it on the barrel & no matter how I tightened it , it would loosen up at the end of each range session . I called PRI & they said to use a small amount of loc tite & its been several years & still tight today. I thought the same thing about loc tite & heat , until then .

If not impressed , send it back to Geissele & they will make it better . Or send it back to Mid way. I would not compare an AR trigger to any other rifle trigger . Totally different configurations .

That's no moon , I mean screw. Its the end of the split pin for the firing pin ( firing pin retaining pin ). The end that you show that looks like a screw head is side where where you push that pin out from & when pin is removed the firing pin can be removed & then the cam pin comes straight out & then you can remove the bolt assem.

Yep , first I noticed it . I used M 16 surplus BCG's, on all my builds back then .

Six month's ? Man have things changed or is this more of BO's influence.

Is this a side charger BCG ? :wwop:

I took one of the TM uppers & replaced the A2 on my preban Oly. . That A2 upper was on this 24" barreled 5.56 with one of first FF hands guards that came out of Olympic Arms & it came right off with no problem .Been one there at least twenty years, came right off . I have to find a scope for my new Varmint rifle . This is new territory for me & this rifle ,one of my first builds. Check the markings on that bolt , if you can see them .

I use Dillon spay lube , but they will all work , if used correctly. If not using case lubricant, you will wear out your die faster & don't kid your self , you can get a stuck case even just neck sizing .

Mine too, 0.277" smallest I got with my dig. calipers.

In the old days , I used to smack the FA every time I chambered the first round of a new mag. , but haven't done that in a very long time . My 308's , I have never used one . I have one with & one with out & the one I'm building now , will not have one.

Is that an "H" ?

The camo was the first thing that I noticed , why ? The other thing is , you don't need to dump the mag all the time to clear jams . This is set up just for the timed matches & as said above ,most of us would have to de-train our self's to work the new system . Sorry , I put this in "I'm an old dog & don't need a new trick " category.

There will come a time , when we will have to fight for our freedom again . These people can't take the truth & will do every thing they can to suppress it . I do not trust most politicians ,no matter what party they say they belong to . Case in point , "Only an idiot would raise the dept ceiling , insted of stopping & cutting spending ", do I need to say more ?

If you want , PRI will machine a brake to fit your barrel contour . I had them make me one up , just call them . I think it makes for a cleaner look on my 20" HB.

Not sure about it being oil based , I have some old RCBS case lube & it will wash off with just water . The dents in the case are from a build up of lube in the sizing die . You should clean your die often . I now use Dillon spray on lube & will not go back to the pad any time soon , but I have no problems with the pad method . This thread should be moved to the reloading section .

I got two Tactical Machining uppers in yesterday & campared them to the DSA one I got a couple of weeks ago & can't really tell much difference , except the TM has white numbers on the top rail & the DSA doesn't have them colored & the DSA has a six ( 6) or nine ( 9) depends on how you look at the upper , on the lug for the disassembly pin . The TM looks like it has the lube on the inside of the upper , can't tell if the DSA upper does . They are both nice uppers ,but if I ordered another it would be the TM , because of the whited numbers . Could not find any marks or machine work on them , they look nice . They make a 300 Blackout marked lower , that I want & will get shortly , when I can find time to drive the hour or so down there & may ask for a tour . I mentioned the lower in the 300BLK section .

Most use Flitz metal polish on the chambers & as said above , do it sparingly , It takes a lot of polishing with Flitz to take material off , but still have to be careful .

Nothing wrong with DPMS BCG's , any DPMS type will work , there are a other manufacturers out there making bolts & carriers. Any time you change to a new barrel , it will need a new bolt or one that was broken in with it & always check head space, even when replacing the bolt for repair.

I never used a two stage until I installed a Geissele SSA in my 20' & am sold on them for target or hunting . The first stage gives you a more precise second stage or sear disengagement. I plan on installing more of them in my AR's . There are good ,less expensive ones out there , I just have no experience with them , others here do . Hand guards , any DPMS type I believe. As said you may be impressed with a 16" bbl..

<thumbsup>

Socket set screw in that gas block , no head. How offten does one remove the gas block ? The red will come off ,because of the heat cycles it goes through. Blue might work ,but its holding power with the heat cycles would be questionable. I have a PRI brake on my 20 " & only used 0.002 shim stock to alien the brake & I got it tight as I could , but after a range session , I would find it loose . I called PRI & they said to use red, not blue loc tite on the threads & it won't move . Sure enough ,its been on for years & is still tight. I always thought , that thread locker would just fry away( what I was always told ) , but ya learn some thing new every day. Ya know ,I 've been told not to use red loc tite on aluminium , so maybe blue might be better , that is an alum. block . Ya just can't go crazy on the loc tite ,no matter which you use. Its good CMMG will take care of jlaw

I just picked up the new " reloader magazine" ,I think it may be put out by Hodgdon , but the guy doing the tests on the new CFE powder was impressed with it & there are a bunch of loadings for it , even 308 . This mag. also has an article on the 300BLK loads & H110 for 44 mag.. I will try to post them or they can probably be seen on the Hodgdon web sight , I will look tomorrow .

That's entirely possable . The measurements are close to a couple of cartridges , but close just doesn't make it . Interesting though , isn't it ? I say wild cat of some sort & it may be a parent 7.62x51 case .

Lets see , where to start ? Jlaw , You could send the rifle back , that's a good optsion ,. I would make sure the gas block is aliened( and that means right on top of the gas port in the barrel ) & use some red loc tite on the set screws & let them sit for 24 hrs.. This is a new rifle & once that gas block seals , it will not move or should I say shouldn't , because I have no idea how it is fitted by the factory. It really should not take long to seat , couple of hundred rounds , maybe more maybe less . The gas block may or may not be the whole problem with the FTF . texas30cal Is this a factory rifle or build ? Problems as you describe can be a couple of things , rough chamber (DPMS rifles ), wrong ammo ( putting 7.62x51 into a tight .308 chamber ,steel cased into a hot chamber ,will stick if left alone for a min. ), not enough lube on the BCG. & or dirty chamber or head spacing . The mark you are seeing on the brass, is from the bolt face ( around the ejector ) & can be dressed to make the face flush from a burr from manufacturing the bolt .

That would depend on, if you think you can do the head spacing yourself. If you think its above your skill level , take it to a smith . Its not a hard process ,but can be read incorrectly . Read up on the procedure & make the call , the gages them self's are not overly expensive & can be used in the future.