survivalshop

I haven't got a confirmation e-mail yet , but holding my breath to see if all is in stock as it read on the web sight .

Having marks on or near the ejection port is nothing to worry about , they are hitting the brass deflector ,just not leaving a mark, yet. I would look into the extractor for burr's or weak spring or some thing may have gotten into that area , also check the ejector & make sure its free to move with out hanging up . It looks like the fired case is late being ejected .( dent in mid section of case, not unusual ) Where are your ejected cases landing ? What buffer & spring are your using , std DPMS ? How are the spring tensions for the extractor & ejector ? easy , heavy ?

I finally found them all at the same place . I just had to pay state tax on them , but that's OK with me .

All I have to say is , any body but BO in 2012 !

Well that would suck . Wonder if a good strong magnet would help in that case. Yes , Photo's.

Now that's different , I kinda like the idea of a pin with a set screw as a keeper. There are a few manufacturers using a short spring & set screw for the safety detent & disassembly pin, good ideas also.

<munch>

That's why they stamp the info on the bbl.. <laughs> Mine is also S/S ,but its also phosphate or some thing to make it black & no flutes . Olympic Arms bbl. 24" & 1-10 twist . Its my pre-ban & I just put a flat top TM upper & a Burris scope on the top & can't wait to see how it shoots with optics on it , its had A2 irons on it for over twenty five years.

You asked & received & nothing about the front pin. He did say that the Army team went to the wedges because they switch from 22lr uppers for practice . I think you will find that the tightest matched uppers & lowers , will loosen up when round count gets higher . They set them selfs when broken in . Bedding the rear lug almost stops this movement, it gives another anchor point to absorb recoil . The accuwedge works in the same way , just not as precise.

Nice rifle , what's the twist rate ? I assume its 223/5.56 cal.

I was wrong about the gunsmith , he doesn't do work for the Army shooting team ,but has worked with them . He is building a rifle (Colt base ) for a service member going back to Afghanistan. The Gunsmith , Phil Arrington I think the area he is referring to is right behind the rear lug on the upper , where it meets the lower . The epoxy will fill the void & tighten the receivers up . When removing the shims , you get the necessary amount gap to open & close the upper & lower. The shims are in placed in front of the lug , when you start placing the shims , you will see where they make a difference & where they do not . I have been planing to do this with a DPMS upper & lower 308 I have ,but want to shoot a before & after to see what results I get . Use this method at your own risk . I say that because I have gotten rifles where those who thought they could do a bedding job only to find out they didn't put release agent in all the right places. Hate to see that in an AR . Good luck , it will be a couple of weeks before I have time to play with bedding .

You will find that POF rifles have the smaller size also . Just to clarify , its the same threading into the receiver ,but where the pin part of the screw goes into the far side of the pin/screw hole, for the bolt catch , the DPMS is larger. I turned down one to fit until I got a pin/screw from POF w/ an extra pin. I have both pins & can get measurements & photos later.

Use re loadable brass (boxer primed ), so if you are or ever will get into reloading , you have the brass to do it , no pun intended. <thumbsup>

They are std SAE 5/8 threads (if 308 ), if you think they are tight , just dress them up with a die & tap. My PRI went on no problem ,but on bare S/S bbl. threads .The PRI brakes are very well done ,It may well be your bbl. threads that need cleaning up . Are you using a crush washer or going the shim route for the brake ? If shimming , You can use blue loc-tite on the threads to keep the brake tight. I used a 0.002 shim to line my custom made one up , but it looks like its part of the barrel.

I have an article from Shot Gun News , where a very well named gunsmith goes over how they bed the AR's for the Army's shooting team . Give me a while , so I can find it & reprint it here as a post. I would only use at the least , full length sizing die for reloading for an AR . Some say you never need it , but I use small base dies for all my reloading for AR's in 5.56/223 & 7.62/308, because my ammo goes into more than one AR .

Yes it is , nice barrels . Of course when I built mine, there not as many choices as now a days . This can only be good for us who own an AR in that cal..

Not at all , I wasn't sure what it was , I couldn't hear it . <lmao>

More than likely not , but the stuff they are made of can be fitted if there is a fitment problem .(Dremel tool rules ) No doubt , DPMS did some copying from the AR 10 . I kinda like the idea of that type of vice block , its like the clam shell one I have from Brownells ( that I had to modify to use on flat tops ,many years ago) .

Nice work . Is that a miniature fountain ?

I have been checking on small parts to replenish my stock & going to my favorite place , a lot of them were out of stock & I don't mean just a few things . I went to other sights for parts & kinda noticed a pattern of small parts out of stock , like dust covers , forward assists , gas tubes & pins , gas blocks , the kind I want & use, were not in stock , they had plenty of GB's ,the ones I would never put on a rifle though. Now don't get me wrong , they are out there ,but having to use five different vendors to get the parts is madness with shipping . I think you all should stop building so I can get my small parts stock back to normal <laughs>

I assume you are going for a one piece look . like mine from PRI , that I had them custom cut .I think it looks better , than a step down at the attachment point.

It is also said that the std. taper pins on an AR , also do the same .

Just use an AR10 buffer spring . I'm not an Armilite person ,but I think they use the same spring for both carbine & rifle , some one jump in who knows for sure . The buffers are all the same dia. , as is the ID. of the receiver extensions on AR 15's & AR 10's & DPMS type 308's. Its the OD. of the receiver extensions that come in two different sizes ,commercial & Mil spec. AR 15 springs do not mix well with the 308 's.

I can't help myself , but that is one ugly hand guard. Set up is for sniping wood chuck( ground Cong ) ?

The one "washguy "put up is a combo wrench for both DPMS & AR 10 barrel nuts & should work .