survivalshop

Well, just put me down for two of them. Show piece ?

I polish all my std trigger groups after several hundred rds. of break in ammo . Some work out OK , some make it worse. I polish ever thing that moves or comes in contact with some thing . I have one in my 300BLK that breaks @ a hair over 5 # consistently . Bill Springfield , will do a trigger job for $ 35 + shipping & he does good work . I have found that the Spikes Tactical enhanced trigger set is not bad for the $ 59 + shipping. Its Nickel Boron coated & mine was almost 7# pull when I first put it in my 16" rifle & after a hundred rds. its down to 61/4 # & will probably get better . They say it will get between 5-6 #. I will be putting more Spikes enhanced triggers in my service or hunting AR type rifles. I have a Geissele SSA in my 20" & by far the best trigger I have ever pulled in an AR . Pricey , yes , maybe not needed for a hunting or service rifle , but every one that shoots with it says it is the nicest trigger they have ever used .That says some thing about a trigger . If you change to a good trigger , you will see your group size change & also fliers . I assume you are hand weighing your powder charges.

A good trigger will really show how you & the rifle work together . It will even make milspec ammo shine , but your hand load groups will shrink & you may lose most of your fliers. The free float hand guards do make a difference ,but nothing spectacular.I think the word we are looking for is consistency, its what a FF will do better than an A2 or M4 type & they do run much cooler , in rapid fire mode. The bi-pod putting pressure on the hand guards that are attached to the barrel , may not help in accuracy. They work much better on a FF hand guard.

Shooting down hill , there will be ground or as you said water in the way eventually, so it is safe . 15-20 should not make much difference , but there will be a little . Its the long range steep angles , where it gets tricky. I have a magazine at work ,I think its called Sniper & it has a article about extreme angle shooting ,maybe two . I will look it over & see what is says about ,what kind of angles you have to start thinking about & how to adj. & or what effects there are .

The bbl. is on a SI Defense upper ,Gen. II , I think . Mine shoots very well & the only issues I had were the , bolt catch ,in the lower & the early ,CMMG lower will not work with Magpuls . Any steel mag works fine . I have learned to live with it . The 20" barrel will not make that much difference & if you are going with the MedWT./HB version of ether barrel , there is a quite a weight difference , if your walking around with it . I'll take the short stiff one any day , ( we are talking about barrels here , put your mind where it belongs <laughs>) LTWT.,barrel 18.5" 2.4 # MEDWT.,Barrel, 18.5 , 2.9 # HB , Barrel , 20 " , 3.65 # If I remember correctly , my 16" HB came in @ 2.8 # or some thing close to that . I know it was in between the two 18.5's.

Once you get the load the rifle likes , you will see better . That's half the fun of working up loads , is to watch them get better & you get to see what works & what doesn't . When I make a powder charge for a new bullet , I switch out primer manufactures to see what changes . I will load 5-6 of each , just to see what happens I also use a Chronograph , they open your eyes ,as to what is really happening . What trigger is in your rifle ?

I've been shooting that to get reloading brass . Nice heavy brass & I have no problems with it , shoots good also . Stuff I have been getting is in a white box ,like most gov. contract fodder . Pretty much most of what is shot out of my 16" build with just MBUS . I refuse to put a scope on her.

Ya , right , that's gonna to happen . <laughs>

I have the 16"HB with rifle length gas system & a 20" HB , both 1-10 twist & they are both phenomenal barrels . The 20" is a tack driver ( of course the Geissele trigger helps ). If for hunting, I personally would go with the 18.5 " barrel ( they don't show any listing for the 16" any more ), it will make the rifle more field worthy ,compared to the 20", but that's just me & you won't see much , if any , difference in accuracy at hunting ranges between the two. The next 308 I build will have an 18.5 , FA bbl. on it .

Hay , its Hollywood , what do you expect. They live in a fantasy world.

I believe you are supposed to collapse the stock all they way before you induce that drill for clearing a stuck chambered round . Live & learn.

There is one ,not sure who makes it( might be DPMS ) ,but it will do both DPMS type & AR10 bbl. nuts . One end of the wrench for each . I will take a photo or find it on the net. some where . I don't think it was too expensive , but I have a doz. or so of wrenches for these BBl. nuts & hand guards.

Now go out & shoot with her.

WOW! Keep samples of the ammo if you send it back to WW. Take plenty of photo's of the ammo ,& any markings on the box. They should pay for repairs.

Of course you will need to close the adj. down more . Could also be return spring tension. You do want to have a usable range for adj. , including for a suppressor ? I would also make sure the gas block is aligned properly . It will seal its self will round count .

<thumbsup> That FDE would look real good on my 16" 308.

I just got an news e-mail from Wilson saying they have 220 HPBT gr. 300BLK ammo for sale .

Are you using a std. gas port in the barrel for a DI operated rifle ? Did you paint the gas block or is that all fouling from firing ? If a lot of it is fouling , could be too much bypass gas to operate piston effectively.

I would say the threaded types would not be a problem , not sure of the clamp on ones , only because I have not tried the one I have yet, I have a Troy Battle rail & I don't really see a problem with it ether . I have a JP's VTAC on my 16" 308 & since it only has had MBUS sights , I use the sling a lot when off the bench (which is most of the time ) & I feel no flexing or movement , very solid . I have one of the stove pipes you talk about from Fulton's Armory & its on my 20" & its pretty much a bench gun , so not going to try off hand much , but its solid also . Hell I have a Versa Pod attached to it & it surely doesn't move .

They probably never had them . They want to have back orders so they know they can sell them & order accordingly .

Ok , who's going to be the taste tester on this one , man up , some one has to take one for the team !

Your right ,the Sinclair , is what fits the whole scheme of the rifle ..

The ability to switch to a different cal. would be for special op's teams , sniper's & the like . I do not believe the individual troops would benefit from it ,maybe the designated rifleman, but as a whole , logistics would play a big part in what was carried by the troops. It may help the armorers though & as you said , more stuff to Carrie. Ammo would not be a factor (except for snipers ) there is usually, every thing from 5.56 to .50 cal around .

New filer from MIDWAY has 300 BLK brass for sale from ACC , Rem. head stamp. in 100's, 500's & 1000's

I would not , but you can . Its your life & its your money , spend both the way you want .