seasprite

Oh how true, I'd rather be doing about anything besides humping boxes at work. <laughs> By the way I changed out 14 quarts of trany fluid from my truck without a single problem figures those little gremlins :leghump: would show up when working on the rifle. Not a 100% sure what your saying on the taper pin slots, my OE gas block had 2 set screws screwed into a couple of shallow holes drilled into the barrel holding the gas block in place along with a roll pin holding the gas tube to the block. One of the shallow holes lined up with the PRI set screws plus the gas port was lined up too used compressed air to confirm this. The other set screw was in front of the other shallow hole not lined up should I make an indentation for this one or is one set screw in the mounting hole good enough to hold in place? I have more to say but I have to run off to a birthday lunch so I'll finish when I get back. Well I'm back now the only other thing I had to say was I don't think this gas block was designed to hold the retainer like you said the gas port wouldn't line up if I did. Its a lot smaller than the OE gas block in about every dimension I can think of thats why I was thinking of putting a spacer between the gas block and the retainer until I get my free float rail.

Well I installed my PRI gas block today and almost screwed the pooch :o. The instructions said that I might have to fit the gas tube to the block and I had to, so I was sanding and test fitting the gas tube got stuck in the block. I was like well its part way in maybe I can tap it in the rest of the way :hornet: wrong. After wedging it in tighter than a frogs butt I realized I was in trouble. (hate that feeling that you get when you really screwed up) After my senses came back to me I inserted a drill bit just slightly smaller than the hole for gas tube the in the opposite end and drove the gas tube out problem averted :-[ . Finished fitting the gas tube to the block with out any other problems. When I installed the gas block on the barrel only one of the set screw holes lined up and the hand guard retainer has some play in it since the block didn't push up against the retainer. Thought about putting a spacer in there but I plan on putting a free float rail on sometime this winter so I left it be for now I don't see it causing any problems. So thats how my day went how was yours?

I'll be watching to see how your development on the .308 goes with the CFE 223 NoFail and I have been developing the A-max bullets from Horndy. I have been testing the 168gr and NoFail seems to be liking the 178's. Its going to be 2-3 weeks before I can start again going to put an adjustable gas block on the rifle and tune it and I need to pick up some more bullets. You can check out my progress here: http://308ar.com/forum/index.php?topic=3563.0 Have you decided on what you want to run with on the .308 and CFE 223? Sorry for the tread jack Mikedaddyh

Its an 16" 1-10 twist DPMS barrel. Won't get back to testing for 2-3 weeks because I'm going to install the PRI low profile adjustable gas block and set it to cycle the 175gr Privi ammo that I have. I also need to pick up some more bullets. Last time at the range I couldn't believe my luck and scored around 150 pieces of .308 brass mainly Remington and Winchester along with some Lake City. Normaly the only thing I find in the range buckets is steel cases for the .308 so I'll probably be processing this brass for a few days to. Later NoFail

All I can tell you is that my chrony read 2640 fps below 80* and 2660 above 90* with the 168's. I'm still working on the lower node of 47.1gr so no numbers yet. Just curious is this the upper accuracy node or lower? (I don't load the 5.56 so if this seems like a silly question sorry) The reason I asked is, this is where I found pressure signs when the temp. got up over 100* for the .308 loads but to be honest I was running them kinda short on the length that seems to be where my rifle likes them. Good luck MikedaddyH even though I don't reload for this cartridge I'm going to pay attention. <munch>

You know the old saying if it doesn't work right get a bigger hammer. <laughs>

Kansas City MO. <thumbsup> Hope you keep us posted of your build.

Now thats a good idea putting a longer adjustment screw with a lock nut thanks Jgun <thumbsup>

Had a gun show come into town today and they had alot of AR parts for sale at this one. I decided to see if I could find an adjustable gas block and one of the vendors had the PRI 0.750" ID adjustable gas block for $75.00 so I took a chance on it. Do any of you guy's use the PRI hows it run? I plan on using it on my DPMS Oracle LR-308 with an 16" barrel and carbine gas system. Any tips on how to install, looks pretty straight forward as far as that goes or is there anything I need to look out for?

Thanks 98Z5V, helped me decide on testing the 2.795" again. I'm going with the nut behind the trigger excuse. 3 of the shots were under an inch along with one wide right and one wide left. I know the one the went left was me just wasn't sure of the one that went right.

+1 <thumbsup> <thumbsup>

Looks like you used one big target with some sticker targets for your individual groups so take a look at the target as whole and look for groups with the same point of impact. You might want to figure the center point of each group to help pin point the point of impact in relation to your other groups. You should find 2 or 3 groups that have the same or close to the same point of impact. Choose a charge weight right in the middle of those groups you found the same POI and that will be your OCW and can work on seating depth to tighten up your groups. To help with the math on the groups I use the On Target software its a free download for their early version or you can buy the updated one. http://ontargetshooting.com/download.html I like the speeds your getting I'm going to have to try this load when I'm done with the 168's <thumbsup>

Got to finish up my testing on Sat. and lets say my results were less than what I expected but part of that might of been I couldn't hold the gun stable no matter what I did I'm going to retest the 2.815" and the 2.795". I have question on horizontal stringing is that caused by trigger control basically operator error and not the load itself?

Far as I know the chamber is fine from what I can actually see. Is there a way to tell if the chamber is gripping the brass to much? I'm hoping this isn't a common problem with the extractor does anybody make one thats of better quality? Plus I would also like to put together an emegancy spare part kit wich will include an extractor plus what other parts would you include in a kit? <dontknow> As far as the set back goes thats from the broken extractor. The spent brass was left in the chamber when the bolt cycled, so the new round had no place to go but right into the back of the previous fired round. I imagine that when the bolt comes forward it has some force behind it with the mass and spring tension pushing it.

I really enjoy my DPMS Oracle the rifle is defiantly more accurate than me with my hand loads I've been able to shoot a .62 MOA (1.29")at 200 yards with it and I think the rifle can do better just the nut behind the trigger can't keep it tight. The only thing I didn't like was the stock trigger the pull was long creepy and gritty and about 10lbs. Thanks to Survialshop on this site recommended the Giessel SSA and boy what an improvement I know there are cheaper triggers out there but I'm glad I went with Giessel. The only problem I've had with my rifle is an broken extractor I called DPMS and they had one mailed to me in about weeks time so there customer service seems to be good if you need to use it. The reason I believe that my extractor broke was the rifle seems to be overgased (ejection at 1:00 to 2:00 o'clock)along with some of my reloads being on the warm side caused the bolt to try to unlock to early. I plan getting a heavy buffer and see how this does and later on getting an adjustable gas block when I decide to put a free float rail on this rifle. I did the DPMS barel brake in procedure as well it was listed in the back of your owners manual. It was a long and boring process :cookoo: Did it help with accuracy who knows but I wanted my rifle to be as accurate as possable so I did as the manufacture recomended and like I said earlier the rifle shoots better than me. Would like to find sombody that can drive these rifles better than me to find out how accurate it really is. Good luck with the new rifle I expect a detailed range report when you shoot it (with pics) <thumbsup>

I'm glad you didn't have to take it to the next level. Because the antis will come out and sue saying you have no right to life just the bad guy's because there misunderstood. :cookoo: Then you spend your life savings trying to convince 12 liberals that good is good and bad is bad.

Man what a beautiful pair of rifles <thumbsup> :strokin: Now I have to clean my computer screen off. The M1 garand has been on my need to get list for a while but I decided to get the .308 AR instead this time because the antis are always wanting to ban the evil black rifles.

<thumbsup> Good luck brother. Going to try this coming weekend my self. I repaired the rounds that had set back. I'm hoping the three remaining 2.800 rounds continue where the other 2 shots did when I had the malfunction.

Well I finally received my extractor from DPMS and installed it now I have to find time to finish my seating depth test. I have to give DPMS <thumbsup> on there customer service told them what happened and they said they would send one out to me.

Kind of like an old buck marking his territory just don't forget to scrape <laughs> <lmao>

<lmao> Thats where I read mine the only thing I hate is when my legs go numb then I try to stand up only to find out that besides the pins & needles the brown concrete has set up making things worse :o

I've been wanting to try the 178s thanks for heads up NoFail, I'm going to continue testing and developing the 168 for now but I'll probably stay with the 47.1 charge weight just to keep from beating things up but man that 47.9 showed real good accuracy out at 200 yards so I might use it in limited circumstances and cooler weather. Thanks for the load with IMR4064 that is some impressive sd numbers there. I just might have to try that powder <thumbsup>

Thanks MikedaddyH, from the reserch that I've done so far the Armalite spring is a must. Now I'm woundering if I can get the tungsten weights instead of the whole buffer to save a little money since things are a little tight right now. Thanks Robocop1051, I guess if I could only have small piece of the sun core 150,000 kg/m³ <lmao> :o crooks will try anything won't they.

Sorry to hear about your job Nofail hope another door opens up for you.