Another "+1" for the GG&G bipod (I use an XDS-2 QD). Funny, how I was just telling Robo that I got an Atlas in today and I'm super unimpressed compared to the GG&G I already had (much slower to deploy, some rough edges that really cut into your fingers, less ergonomic, and the pan and tilt aren't very functional due to too much resistance).
IIRC a couple folks here have JP barrels and like them. Hopefully they drop in soon.
I'd avoid the LMOS carrier unless you're building a system specifically tuned for it (including adjustable gas block).
"The Rule" states that if you ask about a product for more info and nobody has experience with it, you have to buy it and then report back about it. We've been known to be lenient with newer members though :).
What kind of heat gun did you use? If it's not a hot enough one, sometimes a propane torch is necessary (such as with loc-tited gas blocks)... Don't be afraid to tap the barrel into the upper either after heating the receiver.
Does the gas tube protrude far enough into the upper receiver? Lately I've been seeing more and more posts about undergassed builds where they needed an AR-10 pattern gas tube instead of AR-15/LR308. JP is known as a quality manufacturer, but it'd be easy to check anyways.
Heavy Buffers' LR-308 carbine action spring (modified AR-10 spring) is about the best spring you can get.
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Yup, SCS is the silent capture spring.
I really like SLR Sentry adjustable gas blocks. It's light-weight, durable, only requires one tool, and there's plenty of anecdotal evidence out there now that shows that they don't lock up after lots of rounds dirty (suppressed). I have one on my AR pistol.
Rest assured, my Shibi-blaster is running great. Soon after I broke it in, I was shooting steel out to 250yds with it no problem at my buddy's ranch (silly people think a short barrel can't reach out that far...).
Vickers said on another site (either M4C or SSD, don't remember which) that the round into the ground was intentional (almost like a warning shot or something).
An MWS BCG is compatible with an SR-25 one. Barrels aren't interchangeable since the MWS uses a proprietary mounting/quick change system. Rails aren't compatible either since the MWS has a single piece upper chassis.
If you look carefully, the carrier was probably getting caught on the bolt catch instead of the bolt itself. This is also what can happen when you have a short stroke after firing the last round in a mag.
Welcome! First off, what are your goals and requirements for this rifle (use cases, aesthetics, characteristics, and performance)? For instance, is weight a concern, do you want to emulate an SR-25ER or EMC build, ect.
Unless the barrel was dimpled wrong (rare on a known brand barrel), it'll line up. You can always check by taking out the rear set screw and looking through it to make sure the gas port at the top of the gas block aligns with it and then measuring the distance on the barrel from the shoulder to the center of the gas port and shoulder to center of the dimple to make sure they're the same. I've dimpled my own barrels by just using the gas block as a measuring device.
I've used my Pelican 1700 case as a suitcase when travelling on business a few times (internationally). Every time it comes out of the baggage claim it's either put behind the counter where the attendants are or with the oversized baggage (even though it's not oversized), also with attendants.
I think there will be fouling till it reaches some equilibrium (where the gasses moving through stop or deposit very little). You probably won't have to clean it after that (or a VERY long time after).
My guess would be you'd have to open it up a bit more due to some fouling (and for colder weather). I broke my Shibi-blaster's adjustable gas block in with about 60 rounds of cheap and dirty russian ammo before adjusting the gas block from full closed to where it needed to be. I then made sure it locked back 20 consecutive times with the russian ammo (so I know it'd work with the weaker stuff) before I called it good.