Matt.Cross

I'll bet he has a ground wire in one of his legs to keep the voltage from arcing out his rectum when those big brass balls rub together. That is freakin' INSANE!

I will have 50 lbs coming just before halloween! <laughs> <lmao> "Don't worry maam, they are sugar free, and if you want I'll give you a sealed bag of them to take home."

I'm not getting "all high on the mountain" with you, I'm actually just a staff member tasked with keeping the forums a pleasant place to be. Thankfully these types of situations resolve themselves pretty quickly as a general rule. Bottom line, I have no wish to change your opinion. Simply put, if you cannot express your differences of opinion in a respectful manner, it's best not to post it. Otherwise, have a great time here and carry on. Thank you.

I can't believe you typed it either. It doesn't seem like the fact that we are discussing the AR platform and not benchrest can seem to be impressed upon you, so I'm switching tactics here. Noone is expected to see eye to eye with all the other members of this forum, but everyone is expected to treat everyone else with respect. Taking the initial points out of context and exaggerating them into senselessness is disrespectful and rude, and that won't fly. Your perspective won't benefit anyone if your attitude keeps them from paying it any attention.

The irony! I laughed so hard I nearly soiled myself.... this deserves to be stickied.

I'm eager to see the results, I've personally experienced gains in accuracy going to a lighter shorter profile, but I don't compete in bench rest so what do I know? ;)

Lets not throw the baby out with the bath water, nobody has suggested that the shorter your barrel is, the better off you are at the 1k mark. In terms of rigidity, and maintaining the mobility of the AR platform, it makes sense that a shorter barrel has more rigidity given the same diameter, but with the tradeoff of less velocity. Trying to make comparisons between the benchrest world and what can feasibly be accomplished with an AR is just foolish, it's apples and oranges. The real test of your theory (as applies to an AR anyway) would be in testing the accuracy of a long barrel at distance vs. the same diameter barrel in a shorter length on the AR platform.

Why'd you do it? Now I HAVE to buy one... I mean, the ^&*(#&% thing literally has my name on it.... Yeesh!

Nice. I've actually had the same idea, but keep running into how to keep the magazine feed lips out of the way of the bolt lugs.

I have personally had trouble with them, to put it VERY briefly. There are others on this site who bought off-the-shelf LW barrels and like them very much. My decision to avoid them is on principle, not on their product. CMMG would be 2nd to last choice, with LW being the last. ;)

Welcome to the forums! We're glad to have you.

It was a low blow for sure... So much for "what happens in LA stays in LA"...

My only suggestion regarding this post is that you shop with CMMG before you shop with Lothar Walther.... <laughs>

Today's mail contained the 29th edition of "Machinery's Handbook", HOLY COW THIS THING IS DENSE! It's like every bit of accumulated machining technology knowledge all focused into a single book. 2700 pages of machining expertise!

With a new or unfamiliar pistol, I usually start by using my support hand to place the pistol in my firing hand with the barrel as directly aligned to the line of my forearm between elbow and wrist as possible. Then I raise the pistol to my firing stance, applying only minimal muscle tension. I look at my sight picture, and if the sights don't naturally align, I will rotate my grip counter-clockwise or clockwise and repeat the process until the sights align automatically and naturally. Then I practice addressing my grip in that orientation when drawing and presenting to the firing stance. The other factor you might need to assess, is your trigger pull. The 1911 takes all the work out of pressing straight to the rear for you. Most polymer pistols have the "hinged" trigger that pivots around a pin, so achieving a straight trigger pull means overcoming the tendency to "torque" the pistol while you are effectively moving pressure around a hinge on a lever. Again, I'm no expert, this is just my good 'ol boy $.02, but hopefully it gives you food for thought.

OMG It's the feared, dreaded, non-metal undetectable unregistered BLACK "ghost rock"! You better take that picture off the internet before the Federal Mineral Bureau comes by wanting to look in your safe and making sure you have the correct mineral rights. I've heard of people getting arrested just for having antlers and flint and stone chips found in their garage.... ;)

I have a theory that the 1911 is the most naturally aimed handgun in existence, but that's just my $.02, so take it for what it's worth. I'm just curious, how do you address your grip to the pistol? What firing stance do you typically use?

Follow through is pressing straight to the rear and holding focus on the point of aim until the sight picture returns post-recoil, to the best of my knowledge. Some of the more experienced shooters here can probably give you better advice or more detail.

Being broke is no excuse, but nice try anyways. I suggest switching from ramen noodles and generic soda, to soda crackers and tap water, a savings of approximately 35% overall. You'll be posting pics of that bipod in short order!

WHOA! Leave mom outta this, I swear she's a saint...

... and if you haven't, shame on you! Pics within 4 weeks or more warnings will follow! :D

Tase 'em boys, he just communicated a threat!!! >:D

The critical question is, will it do what you need it to do, every time? If the answer to that question is yes, it doesn't matter if your weapon is Taiwanese silly putty, nobody can ask for more than that. :)

I'll just throw this in there, while it's a hot topic. When they were still selling their Monolithic platform, I bought and built a SR-25/style .308 off of the Mega Arms MA TEN platform, based on using DPMS compatible parts. Here's the final rundown of the parts list: Mega MA TEN Monolithic Rifle Length chassis (upper & lower) Fulton Armory 18.5 Mid-weight Rifle length gas system Fulton Armory Titan bolt assy. FA low pro aluminum gas block SI Defense Nickel Boron bolt carrier PACT SR Gold trigger Battle Arms BADASS (saftey lever) CAA G17 Grip Magpul PRS stock, Magpul rail covers, Magpul mags Bobro/GG&G Bipod Ops Inc. 12th Model muzzle brake and suppressor combo LaRue Tactical QD 10MOA single piece scope mount The only custom work that this rifle has ever seen, was the tapered collar for sealing the rear of the suppressor, which I machined myself and was only an additional component for assembly. All I did was put all that together, basic assembly required, and no fitting of any parts with the exception of the aforementioned collar. The beast easily shoots .75MOA with sub grade match ammo, and .5MOA with FGMM and comparable ammo. The total price tag for all that comes up to the $4k mark. Would I do it again? You bet! I know my rifle inside and out, and I can't reasonably ask it to perform any better.The OBR is a fantastic piece of gear, but had I built my same design off that platform, I would easily be at the $6k investment mark. The short answer is that a Franken-rifle CAN meet or exceed it, but you have to buy premium components to do so, and while you might end up coming out cheaper still, the margin won't be exceedingly wide.

I heard he bought the "do it yourself" kit and threw away the instructions.... <munch>