Robocop1051

http://308ar.com/forum/general-discussion/muzzle-device-comparison/ Check that one out!

... but it looks cool :cookoo: :o <dontknow> http://militarytimes.com/blogs/gearscout/2012/09/17/tango-down-flip-grip-is-ready-to-go-short-or-long/

If you know what to look for, you'll see it! BAD Inc. is becoming mainstream!

I'm making a "special" phone call tomorrow. I'll make sure to let you all know.

A close friend of mine is an aspiring professional MMA fighter. I need your help promoting his career so he can get some air time and have his fights put out there for all to see. I grew up with Kito Andrews and want to help out as much as I can. He had a shot at the UFC, but was recovering from an injury during his tryouts and had to remove himself from the running. Now after a long recovery, he is fighting again... and WINNING!! http://mmainsidethecagetv.com/2012/09/episode112/ please vote for #4 – West Coast FC – Kito Andrews d. Justin Baesman

Pictures are worth a thousand words.... Very few items for the .308 are "plug and play" unless your bought them from the same manufacturer. Some fitting my be required.

Mathews Bows! Build one for exactly what you need HERE

:ugone2far:

I hate you right now.... You're as bad as those "other" guys <lmao> (Just trying to find one for sale that isn't going to RAPE me in shipping)

IF I had the same issue as you... AND they were available... Then, YES, I would buy one.

I understand that the AR-10 uses modified magazine and bolt catches, made specifically to enhance the operation with the larger .308 parts. I saw from one of Imschur's previous post that there are some minor differences in the AR-10A and the AR-10B. I currently have an AR-15 mag catch in my SI-D lower (LR-308 compatible). I'm wondering if the AR-10A would be a compatible upgrade for my rifle? Especially since the AR-10A is Magpul LR20 friendly, and that is all I own!

That is really good news! It wouldn't be all that hard to create. Just mill a sleeve around the barrel to go over the GB shoulder. ABSOLUTELY! <thumbsup> If you use a DPMS gas tube, your gas key will not fully engage the gas tube. This could cause a light cycle on your Bolt Carrier Group. This will also cause excess gas/carbon to be released into your receiver, rather than out the ports on the side of the BCG.

Jeb, Let me know about these part numbers when you can. We have a bunch of G36k's that need to be updated. We were going to go with the G36c top rail and open sights, but I like the KAC versions better. A decent price on these sights might spur the higher-ups to make a decision.

Oh poop! You're not making this easy for me are you <laughs>. The .936 is going to be hard to shop for. I think the cleanest look will be the handguard cap, with a bull barrel gasblock... Like this one

@usspfnorman: I have a simple remedy for that gap. It will only cost $5-$15. Hell, you might already have the part in your gear box and didn't realize it.... Round Handguard Cap I still think the flip sight is a good idea! <thumbsup> Re: the LMT vs "Anyone with a mono upper" issue There was no lawsuit. LMT just got the patent for their mono upper before anyone else. Mega cancelled their line so as not to compete in court at a later date. Plenty of other companies still make mono uppers. The largest being Colt. I doubt we'll be seeing LMT lawyers trying to stare down 200 years of Colt history in a courtroom. Canceling the Mono upper was a publicity stunt. Now everyone feels bad for the small guy and hates on the evil corporation. It was a very smart business decision on Mega's behalf. Now when they release their new product (which I'm sure was already in the works) they won't be competing against their own product.

I really hate being the bearer of bad news. I hope that someone here will have a differing answer for you. Since you bought the Monolithic upper, you are stuck with the one single length of rail system. The Mega is (for whatever reason) just a hair shorter than a standard Rifle Length Gas System. If you see the picture below, you will see a shoulder is cut on your barrel. The gas block comes right up to that shoulder and does not go over it (at least I have never seen one that went over it). They make longer gas blocks, but they extend in the direction of the muzzle, not towards the rail. The only way to conceal the gas block, would have been to get the mid-length gas system. There is a small amount of hope... BUT there are a few $$$$ involved... Check out the VLTOR Tower Sights and the PRI Flip Sight gas Block . These sights won't fix or cure your issue, but they will obfuscate the situation a bit.

Hollywood is running our of ideas.... and apparently props!

That's the old Dredd... The "New" Dredd is pretty respectable in comparison. At the very least, they stayed somewhat true to the comic!

Pictures will work best... What "rail" did you get? **Nevermind, I missed the title From the way you are describing your rifle I think I understand what you are trying to do. Take a look at the pictures I put together for you, and tell me if I'm close. The top picture should be similar to what your rifle looks like now. The second and third pictures are what you would like your rifle to look like??

After the "Saturday Night Special" law came through, The California DOJ came up with their safe weapon guarantee. Now all handguns must pass their test before they are allowed to be sold in California. Each variation/model of a handgun must pass. So if a company makes a blued version of a pistol, and the exact same model in stainless, then both types must pass the safety test. The TEST: Along with an application fee of $500, a company must submit THREE handguns of the desired make/model/caliber they wish to test. Those three handguns are then cocked and dropped at several different angles from a moderate height. If the hammer on the gun drops and engages the firing pin, the gun fails the test. Those that pass get to be on the California DOJ "Roster of Handguns Certified for Sale". There are a bit more details and such, but this is the gist of it.... It's all bullcrap no matter how you look at it. The major issue with all this is, how many handguns does a company have to sell to make its money back? This is why companies like STI and Caspian are now extinct in Cali. Other high end manufacturers only submit 1 of X models they release each year. There are a lot of handguns that are near unobtainable in Cali. I know some don't agree with this, but LEO are allowed to purchase handguns NOT on the "list". In fact, I am a gross violator of this fact. My current duty .45 is not on the "list".

Have it welded on, then smoothed out on a lathe. It'll look clean, with continuous lines and curves... Or get lazy and shim it ;D <thumbsup>

I'm going to hold the majority of my opinions for now. I'll wait for more info before I start ranting... I hate that new suit! Robocop was more than a movie. It was a comic franchise too! His look, his helmet, they are his signature! I understand upgrading him, but they took too many creative liberties. His gun better be badass!

Redirect any questions you get to me. I still have a bunch of Airsoft stuff, although I haven't "played" for several months. I spent over $1k on my last Airsoft rifle. That was also my big drive to buy tactical gear/accessories.

Don't do a standard A2 with taper pins. The project will cost more than the parts you are installing. Personally, I like the A2 style flip up sight Why put on a fixed sight? Especially when there are such high quality flip sights available. I'd get the A2 above and switch out the front sight post. I just did this exact task for my 300blk. The difference between .750 and .730 is considerable. The beer can shim worked for me, but I was able to hide the shim under the gasblock and inside the handguard. Here is the plan I had if the shim didn't work: 1. Get a 3/4" wooden or metal dowel from the hardware store. 2. Buy a clamp on style gas block. 3. Remove the tightening screws from the GB. 4. Place the dowel in the GB, then tighten the GB onto the dowel in a bench vise. 5. Use a metal saw or rotary tool, and saw a 1/32" gap (about the with of the blade) where the two halves meet. 6. Check for fit, repeat if necessary.