Robocop1051

I've been on assignments where I've had to carry a rifle for HOURS on end... No thanks. I'll keep it in the car till needed. It doesn't matter if it's held, slung, carried, 3pt, or 1pt. They all get heavy after a while.

This topic has been moved to Introductions. [iurl]http://308ar.com/forum/index.php?topic=4156.0[/iurl]

Let me be one of the first then! Troy Industries makes a phenomenal lightweight free float tube. The Troy MRF (13.8") is a good quad rail system. If you want something more modular the TRX (13.8") is an awesome choice! I'll be dimes to dollars that the "Alpha" mounting system (since it is so much better than the original) will eventually be available for the .308 as well. Apex CNC Machine makes a very customizable free float tube (12.5" and 15"). Just be cautious that the price climbs very quickly as you add more rails to the tube. SWS makes one of the finest (12.89" and 15") quad rail systems available. Unfortunately, they are priced appropriately for their exceptional quality.

"Those that bleed with me and will forever be my brothers" It's a cool sig, but the fact that it's written in Arabic is a little unsettling. It comes from the play "Henry V" by Shakespeare, but it is misquoted/modified.

Welcome RobRob and Joel, There are pages and pages and PAGES of resources on this forum to assist you. The most important factor to building/assembling/customizing the 308AR is that there are two major families of rifle... The DPMS/KAC family and the Armalite family... There are also the G3 and the FAL styles, but they are like bastard step-cousins that no one talks about. Lol. You will only get into one of those if you are looking into them specifically. The DPMS LR-308 and the KAC SR-25 use a compatible format. Parts designed for these rifles can be interchanged. The Armalite AR-10 is another breed of rifle. Not all their parts are interchangeable with their 308AR brethren. It's best to remain to one format (one family) when building/assembling/customizing so as not to run into performance and reliability issues in the future. Trying to force incompatible parts can result in HUGE safety concerns down the road.

No worries TFG, we're here to help. I think Edge misunderstood your first comment, and what exactly you were trying to unscrew. The swivel stud should be screwed directly into the rail. If not, then it is screwed into a plate on the inside of the rail. In the past, I put a roll pin punch or an allen key through the hole in the swivel stud for the leverage to twist. It shouldn't be much more than "hand-tight". If you have any difficulties it may be secured with LocTite. Don't go overboard heating it up. It's a very small part, and a butane lighter should suffice for adequate heat. DON'T LOSE THAT STUD. In the future, you may decide that a bipod would be a nice addition to your rifle. I believe there are more bipods designed to attach to a swivel stud than there are to attach to a picatinny rail (they're usually less expensive too <thumbsup> ). Having that stud in your parts box may come in real handy during that time.

Rule breaker! :pics-stfu:

Yes, a slightly heavier buffer or even a better buffer spring will do you well. An Armalite AR10 spring is an inexpensive upgrade from the standard LR308 spring, and fully compatible.

You'd be surprised at the accuracy difference between a fluted bull 20" vs a standard bull 24". Unless you are going to spend a lot of time at 1000 yards, the extra 4" are a waste. Spiral flutes, golf ball dimpling, and honeycomb are all gimmicks. Stick to the standard flutes. They are significantly less expensive and proven technology. With a decent barrel maker, you should be shooting sub MOA all day.

Have you seen this yet? (stolen picture)

Maybe AFTER my federal lawsuit, lol. Sorry, gag order. I can't share much more.

I point my gun at people all the time (L.E.O.), for various reasons and situations. If i were placed in your situation, I don't think the outcome would've been the same. You have amazing restraint.

Does Rainier actually make their billet, or is it a rebrand? I forgot about LaRue. Another great company. Good luck finding their uppers. The LaRue "Stealth" upper is sold out everywhere I looked. LaRue is a top tier company. Their products are always in high demand.

VLTOR, Mega Arms (make sure you get the one that matches your lower), JP Rifle and LMT all make great billet parts. There are good forged uppers out there too. Noveske chainsaw's are affordable. Armalite and Colt started the AR revolution with forged rifle parts. A good forged upper will cost nearly as much as a billet. Some are going to poopoo me for being elitist here, but if you want to stay away from "run of the mill" parts, steer away from Stag, BCM, Spikes, YHM, and CMMG. Yes, they are all decent companies that make fine parts. They are not considered top of the line by any stretch. Their errors are masked by massive volumes of product at low prices.

For all standard forged receivers, and even some billet, I only ever use this upper receiver clamp vise block. The clamp on block and the insert prevent any twisting, or crushing, of the upper receiver. I do NOT trust the simple insert vise blocks that pin in.

Only you can really answer that "?" How light do you want your rifle? Are you willing to spend the money to make it as light as possible? I doubt you'll even notice the extra ounce or two... Just be aware that if you make that same allowance 5 or 6 more times, you can quickly add up to a pound.

Spray some lube (breakfree or WD-40) on it, and allow it to soak over night.

Barrel and extension only. <thumbsup>

Edge would know. I'm not sure whats going to kill him first, poverty or his girl. If you're crafty you'll order when companies are offering clothes for swag. Then you kill two birds with one stone. No more worrying about the dilemma of dressing yourself vs buying a new gun.

There's a third option, have the custom rifle built for you. Companies like GAP, JP and Proof Research build rifles exactly how you order them. I was all set to finish my 308 build when I ordered my barrel. Then the barrel company offered to assemble the upper with the guarantee of sub 1/2 MOA. I couldn't pass that up. Building a rifle has the satisfaction of building something that isn't sold on a shelf... Or building something special for a lot less. Example: you can build a replica M110 for a LOT less than what it costs to buy one. The 308 rifles are not "plug and play" like their smaller AR15 counter parts. Some fitting may be required. A few examples on mine; the hammer didn't have enough clearance inside the lower. I had to relieve some metal with a rotary tool. Also, the BADASS ambi safety whacked a corner on the outside of my rifle when it was used. I have to relieve a portion of the safety selector for proper clearance. The build will not be without stress. While your rifle won't have the same guarantee as a mass produced one, all the individual parts generally do. You will have to diagnose the issue, then send the individual part out for repair. I'm not going to lie and say its easy work, but it's no more difficult than working on a car.

Wow! Thanks, but I took care of this already. I appreciate you looking out for me.

I was a little bummed too

I did a search for deviants, miscreants, addicts and enablers... Now I'm going to AZ...

Fat thumbs <thumbsup> and trying to type on an iPhone.

I remember the Spaniards saying that the straight wall pistol cartridges were all they could make. They said the cost was about 1/10th that of brass, and the ease and speed of production was incomparable. They were experimenting with +P at the beginning of the year. I look forward to an affordable .308. What would be really nice, is if they sold just the casings for hand loads. Then we could mix and match casings to make 300 Blk too! I think the price of the PCP is based solely on the quality of the bullets being used.