Robocop1051

:laughing4:

I have a floor littered with little yellow plastic baggies.

Rainier Arms also has a Thunder BCG. Both standard and chrome. The price seems fair for a BCG. I may look into one of those for my 300blk, if I don't do the Osprey piston.

Welcome! The .308 is a great choice. You mainly have to decide if you want a plinker, a combat piece or a long range bell ringer. Plinkers can be built for around $1000. The other two are limitless on their price ceiling. If you want the Armalite, I suggest the newest model they just released. It accepts the vastly inexpensive Magpul LR20 magazine. Although any Armalite is of quality design. DPMS has a bit more availability for parts, and those parts generally run a little bit cheaper. All the hogwash about DPMS problems can usually be pointed back at the builder. Either route you have the beginnings of a very decent rifle. As for the stripped receiver you found for $250. I say that's a fair price to get started. If you can stay around $500 for a complete receiver set, you off to a good start. Check out our FOR SALE page too. Plenty of guys off loading gear here for decent prices.

I'm not 100% saavy on the pistol caliber AR's, so please correct me if I'm wrong. Aren't the STRIPPED upper receivers the exact same for the pistol calibers as they are for standard builds? I know for a fact that Ron Williams (Godfather of the DI .45ACP AR-15) uses standard AR-15 uppers for his builds. Does the Spikes version have something different on it from the standard AR15?

LWD says they are back ordering their 9mm lowers. Call them or check them out HERE.

I'm not an expert on the round, but I believe the .40S&W and the .357Sig both came from the 10mm Auto. I would expect almost all their measurements to be the same, minus case length. An impressive bullet. The .357 Sig fills the gap between the .38 +P+ and the .357 Magnum... And it does it in an automatic casing! It's too bad that it's popularity didn't take better. It might be that it doesn't really surpass the performance of the 9mm by much, and you lose the ammo capacity of the 9mm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=1ETJK6_S-c8#!

How long did you knock on the door and peek through the windows before you realized no one was there?

agreed...

I have seen the Sig P226 swapped from .40 to .357 with just a a barrel swap, and the same mags used. I think Glock is the same too. I don't see any reason why XD's would be different. I'm sure that the different model numbers is because of labeling/engraving of the caliber on the mag.

If that handguard were another 2"-3" longer, and had modular side/bottom rails, I would rank it as one of the better off-the-shelf rifles+ available.

This model just doesn't get enough recognition.

The .308 Recon delivers accuracy without the weight of a full size precision rifle. We equipped the Recon with Magpul® MOE® stock and grip and back-up iron sights. The AAC® BLACKOUT® suppressor adapter eliminates muzzle flash without affecting accuracy, optimized by the stainless steel mid-length barrel, and free float 4 rail handguard. MSRP: $1,559.00 RFLR-REC Caliber Weight (lbs) Length Barrel Twist 308 Win 8.95 35”-38.75” 16” Mid. Hbar Bead Blasted 416 Stainless Steel 1 x 10

Wow, that really pulled at my heart strings. I hate hearing about people's bad experiences like this. I pray CMMG makes right with you. I'd send that post as an email to every gun mag, website and newsletter I could think of.

That's the ticket right there!!! I like your style <thumbsup> <thumbsup>

TELL ME ABOUT IT!!!!

LOKI Weapons Systems, .300 Blackout, 14.5", double-fluted, carbine barrel... Lands on my doorstep 06/06!!! [move]:banana:[/move]

Looks like I may have found a solution HERE if MGI fails to help me out in a decent amount of time.

932heminut is right, it's the material. The A2 front sight gas block and many name brand low profile gas blocks are made from steel. Picatinny style gas blocks are generally made from aluminum. There are even some that are part steel and part aluminum, like the flip up sight gas blocks. I have both steel and aluminum in my inventory, and can't say I really appreciate one more than the other. Like SS, I'm not a big fan of the idea behind adjustable gas block's. All that extra gas can be used to control the barrel through proper muzzle devices. If your cyclic rate is too fast there are other remedies that are proven to be more reliable, ie; the Tubb CWS or one of Slash's Heavy Buffers. I believe a majority of the gas problems come from companies putting carbine length gas tubes on barrels long enough to accept a longer gas system. I argue this point with both .308 and .223 rifles. My belief is that any barrel longer than 12" should have at least a mid length gas system, and any barrel longer than 16" should have a rifle length gas system. Only SBR's should be using carbine gas. **Disclaimer: My opinion in no way should be taken as gospel. It is completely the biased opinion of gun-snob, who is admittedly prejudice against all guns and gun parts he deems unworthy, with absolutely no factual grounds on which to base his opinions. <thumbsup>

M27 IAR

Horrible day shooting AGAIN!!! Took this little hottie out for her virgin run. I bought a box of Herter's 122gr FMJ and a box of Herter's 154gr SP... I know this is garbage ammo, but I want this gun to be able to handle cheap garbage or it defeats the purpose of the rifle. First few rounds of 122gr went fine. Only doing one or two rounds in the mag at a time to check the lockback. Everything seems semi normal. I'm not locking after every shot, but these parts might need to wear in a bit better too. She is running pretty damn wet at this time. I finish my 20 rounds of the 122gr and move over to the 154gr. She doesn't like the SP's at all. The soft lead tip just gets mashed in the chamber. I get 2 or 3 to finally chamber and they are binding up super fierce. At one point I started using the forward assist to seat the rounds. Even once they were seated I wasn't getting any ignition from the primer. I looked at the ejected cartridges and saw that there were no marks on the primer at all. Back to the truck to play doctor. I remove the BCG and tear it down to pieces. The first thing I notice it that it is REALLY dirty. For only 20 rounds of ammo, it was REALLY REALLY dirty. I noticed several very small brass circles falling out of the bolt and carrier as I continued my field strip. I stole this next picture from the web, but it shows exactly what came out of my BCG; Next I removed my firing pin. At first I saw the retaining pin was bent, but I thought nothing of it. Then I saw that my brand new firing pin looked like it had been in the gun for years. It was totally burnt and blackened. I immediately noticed it was bent and the tip was crushed. I then noticed that the retaining rim was also crushed; More of the little brass dots kept falling out. I think I had near 15 at one point. I went back to where I was shooting and located some spent casings. That was when I found the root of my problem. Almost all of my primers had popped and I was having a severe blow back from the cartridge. The little "dots" were like cookie cut outs from the firing pin. When I got home I took the bolt apart and found more of the "dots" crushed under the extractor, freezing it into position. One of the "dots" worked its way into the extractor spring and destroyed it. Luckily I have a LOT of those little buggers, and it was easily replaced I broke out the Simple Green and cleaned all the salvageable parts really good. The bolt appeared to be OK still, the carrier was fine too. The extractor got a new spring and everything was reassembled. The parts are soaking in their full synthetic bath now, waiting for the proper firing pin. I have already shot out an email to MGI regarding their "Enhanced Bolt and Firing Pin". To be continued...

I feel they have the same reputation on the AR15 :strokin:

Did you buy your "Never Back Down" target yet?

Welcome... Watch out for those walking dead, and remember to guard your face!