Robocop1051

Don't hold your breath... I pre-ordered the same thing in May, and they told me 1-2 months then too. I'm also still waiting on my s/s barrel extension ordered on the same date.

PRI, JD Machine and MI all have a gas block the same height as the upper rail. Just make sure you get the .308 specific one. I have the PRI in 5.56 and 7.62, there's a sizable difference between the two.

Hmm, I have the same combo and mine wiggled in like normal. That was on a SI-D lower.

Not sure if anyone here needs anything like this. It was kind of an impulsive buy for myself in the first place. I'll sell these here for the same price I got them, $75 shipped. I have them auctioned at a few other places, but for a little to a lot more. These are the newest Oakley tactical gloves on the market. Can't really find these anywhere for less than $100 (MSRP $110). I just got this pair and they were too big for me. My hands are just in between MED and LRG. These gloves are a true size LRG. SIZE: LARGE COLOR: BLK Specs are as follows: Military protective gloves have special requirements and the Oakley SI Tactical FR Glove is no exception. These gloves feature rugged Pittards Fire Resistant leather palm and topside reinforcements, anatomical protective knuckle plating covered with FR leather and two layers of 180g Nomex protect back of hand and fingers. Single Velcro® closure at the wrist provides secure and easy closure. The SI Tactical FR Glove complies with the ASTM D6413 and NFPA 1971 Section 7.7.3 testing standards for flame resistance.

well I'll be damned... <thumbsup> I learn something new every day... Always wondered what went in that little hole.

Just a heads up... I was looking at the design of the Trijicon and the differences between gen1 and gen2 MBUS's. The Trijicon post won't work as well in a gen1. The post is actually two pieces. The bottom screws down to the level you need to sight in, then the top part spins freely to align the tritium. The gen1 MBUS doesn't have a front sight lock. Without that little plunger, the top may spin after each shot. If anyone plans on doing this modification, I strongly recommend the gen2 MBUS as a base.

I'm finding very quickly that my SI-D is very temperamental with parts. Everything has had to be hand fit so far.

I bought this trigger in July 2011 from Brownells. I tried putting this trigger in my SI Defense .308, but the housing is just a micro-hair too long to get the trigger pins to line up. I own this same trigger in my Mega AR15 and I love it. I'm actually a little upset I have to give this up. This is an unused, never "completely" installed trigger. If a member here wants it, I'll let it go for $150 shipped on a discreet PP ($160 on reg PP) If I don't hear anything in a few days I'll probably try to return it.

Just a heads up... CMC drop in flat trigger works great in my Mega AR15... Same trigger does NOT fit in my SI Defense 308. I love the trigger, so I bought two. Now I have an extra one without a home.

Here's my little review so far. I ordered the BADASS short throw painted in stainless. The kit came with two short levers and one long lever. Since I don't have properly marked lower, the unit wouldnt fit unless a minor modification was made. After a quick zap with my dremmel tool I was back in business. I had originally looked forward to the double short levers. I dropped in the two levers and immediately knew I was going to need a long lever on my thumb side. There just wasn't enough leverage with the short lever. Quick replacement, and I found I was right. Much easier function. I had a brand new detent put in. The switch wobbled a quite a bit when it was installed. I worried that I had a defective part. Had an extra detent pin in my box-o-stuff and the swap took just seconds. New pin tightened everything up. I'm loving this so far. Small problem arose. This unit is installed on my SI Defense .308. The lower has a raised rim around the take down pin. The long lever reaches just far enough to clip this raised area. At first I thought nothing of it. After a dozen flicks of the BADASS I saw that the sharp edge had cut through the finish of my lower. I removed the long lever and hit it with a dremmel. Shaved off a very small corner to relieve the impact of metal against metal. You can't even see that I made the modifications. The long lever on the thumb side flicks very easy. The short lever at 45 degrees no longer touches my trigger finger. All in all, I am very satisfied. I'm looking to replace my first BADASS (on my Mega AR15) with the newer short throw as soon as possible. Much respect to the BAD Inc team for a great product. Here's a small peak of my rifle. Just a peak though! The levers match up great with my "Fail Zero" upper

Welcome Rick.... Now only if there were a way to mount that Praetorian Turret on a Jeep Wrangler...

Please, allow me... This is the billet AR15 lower.

I had this same thought when I read 49's post... If the strike plate were steel I would have thought about a weld. Grinding the strike plate flat would be the easy route. Although, milling a shallow groove down the length of the rail and then inserting the strike plate would make it "modular" and give it a tad bit more sturdiness. Drill and tap the strike plate as planned, but without grinding the "strike" feature down. Then you can switch back and forth from standard to rail, and not lose any features.

Mega Arms stainless steel "threaded" bolt catch pin! Gotta love it!!

I spun the sight post 180 degrees and turned down the light. Here's the tritium MBUS mounted on a PRI gas block.

It doesn't get any easier than this! Just got the parts in from Brownells. Magpul front sight $30 Trijicon front sight post $50 First one to post pictures $Priceless. It took only seconds to replace. Zero complications.

- Magpul OD MBUS set - Trijicon front sight post (yes, I'm going there! I'm making a tritium MBUS set) - another CMC flat trigger (They were on sale) - DPMS "tactical" bolt catch for my Mega AR15 Brownells says they should be here tomorrow!!

Jense Precision / XPA are the ones building my barrel. Mike is very personable and knowledgeable.

My upper is coated in Fail Zero. Very VERY smooth. I'm excited to get my BCG in FZ so I can see the two parts together. I think rainier has 5.56 BCG's in FZ

Are you aware that JP rifles use heat sinked barrels? My purpose for a CF barrel wasn't so much for barrel life. I wanted a heavy (or larger) contour barrel that wasn't going to weigh 60% of the rifle. CF is also stiffer than steel. By shortening my barrel to 17" I cut vibration, by making it a .875 contour I cut more vibration, by wrapping it in CF I have taken care of nearly all the vibration possible. I just wanted a <8# semi auto 308 that shot sub-moa.

It depends on the length of your gas system. Normally one would only use the handguard that measures the length from receiver to gasblock. Roughly it's 7" for carbine and 9" for mid length, and 12" for rifle... Then there is the "Dissipator" style. That's when you hide a carbine low profile gas block inside a rifle length handguard and then install a mock gasblock at the rifle length position. RayGun is the only person I know to do this so far... And he's being shy about posting pictures. The problem is that most barrels aren't contoured to accept a gasblock any where except where it belongs.

I suggest PRI also. They come in more diameters than the VLTOR/Noveske. PRI also makes their low pro GB adjustable. You can also youtube on how to cut and file a front sight GB into a low pro GB. Cheap and easy. I know plenty of guys who have done it.

I love it! <thumbsup> Although I'm still holding my breath for a stainless steel short throw BADASS. ;)

@JGshooter The way your rifle is built right now, you have one very simple option that would require ZERO gunsmithing. Get the Magpul MOE handguard, and install the alum/poly rails to it. It takes rails at the 1, 6, and 11 o'clock positions (12 too, but the Magpul 12 is the wrong height to match a receiver). The Magpul MOE handguard should be a direct replacement for the handguard you have on your AR10 now. Looks like you'll need the Mid length HG. Total cost maybe $50 For any decent rail system, you can expect a $200+ bill. MI makes some cheap ones, but they are just that... cheap. You didn't spend all that money on an Armalite just to start cutting corners now, did you?

:o :o :o I have near the same set-up, minus the PRS (it was too heavy for my build). I went with an ARFX instead. As for the "other" springs... You'd be better off with a whole new trigger than just swapping the trigger/hammer spring. The extractor/ejector springs really only have one function, that can't really be improved upon. I only see a need to change them out, if you start having FTE's. Some people try to attribute the angle/direction of spent casing to a bad extractor/ejector. I find that the common factor is a rifle being under/over gassed. A carrier weight or a heavy buffer would help with that problem more than a extractor/ejector spring. Do the buffer spring and buffer modification first. If you feel that the Bushmaster trigger isn't what you thought it would be, take a look at something like a CMC drop in trigger, a JP EZ trigger or a Giesselle later down the road. Remember we charge for our information, payment can be sent in the form of copious pictures and product reviews.