Robocop1051

Glad you made it over! There's pistol talk here too (i saw that wunkus is a 1911 guy too). Enjoy this place.

Lol, I had to go on their website and make double sure you weren't talking about the SH9 (double holster). Bob Mernickle is a really nice guy. I don't know him per se, but I have met him a half dozen times at the Reno NV gun show (biggest show within 500 miles of me). All his holsters are handmade to fit. I carry everyday and picking my holster/pistol is like watching my wife pick shoes for the day. Bob will make you a holster for those hard to fit guns. One of my favorites is for a .357 derringer I like to carry. I can't comment much on his shoulder holsters as I don't own any.

Mernickle Holsters out of Carson City NV. I own several of his holsters.

I'm with 98 on this. You don't put a nice upper on a cheap lower. First and foremost, LaRue makes billet parts. If you buy a forged lower, your rifle is never going to look quite "right". Check out the MA-Ten group buy in the "for sale" section. Dave Branson can get you a good deal on a Mega Arms billet lower (Mod. GTR-3S). The LaRue's are really nice too, but expect to pay near $250. It always looks and works better when your upper/lower combo is made by the same company. A standard LPK can run $45-$75 depending on when and where you buy it. Slap a standard kit in for now and upgrade as funds become available. Last thing is a stock assembly. First decide on fixed vs collapsible. You won't save much money on one vs the other. A cheap UTG set can be found for about $50, and you will hate shooting your rifle. A custom set-up can run $400. My personal preference is a cheap fixed is more comfortable than a cheap collapsible. A realistic price range should be $100-$125 for a "starter" package. Your "under $300" range isn't much of a reality if you're looking for a comparable quality to that LaRue upper. I definitely think you can stay under $400 though. I guarantee in time you'll want to upgrade that lower to take full advantage of the LaRue upper.

I guess the next debate is what kind of "hog" are you shooting? Is this just a fat dumb wild pig? Or is this a huge, hairy, bite you in the ass if you miss, wild boar? If you're planning on a big fatty, I say a 155-165 grain hollow point will do. If you're going for the tusks I say a bigger, maybe 170-175 grain, soft point.

What configuration is your AR10; Barrel? Optics? What other options do you have? For regular pigs I use my Browning model 92 in .44mag, for big boars I'll swing a Marlin .444. I'm still building a 10mm auto upper for my AR15, just to thump pigs. My math says that a 200gr bullet flys approx 1300 fps out of a 6" barrel. Add 50 fps per inch till complete burn at 10.5" and then approx 30 fps per inch to a 16" OAL. That's a .41 cal flying approx +1600 fps! Or a 165gr at near 2k fps!!!

DPMS, PRI, JD & MI (wow, we like acronyms) all make rail height gas blocks. Personally, I think PRI & JD make the better looking blocks.

Jgun, I'm pretty sure Jense Precision (also known as XPA) now owns ABS. Mike Dagerness (SP?) is their barrel maker/ carbon wrapper. He explained to me the same thing you are describing. Shoot .308 till you get sick of it or you can manage to shoot out his barrel (which he says is about 8k-10k rounds). Then for $150 he will change it over to .338 fed. He guarantees a .5 MOA with his barrels... And even tighter if you let him build the upper. Ps. Ordered my barrel 10 weeks ago... Still waiting.

Welcome Jim This all depends on your budget too. If you're trying to stay under a bar, Yankee Hill Machine are the cheapest you'll find with a decent amount of quality built into them. If you're looking for very high quality piece, Troys are nice, Daniel Defense is very nice, and Superior Weapon Systems reeaally nice. Only problem with "nice" is that it will cost $200. $300 or even $400 for a top end rail system.

Maybe Guy Savage from Sabre Defense can help kristian out? I hear he has some experience in this field. What? Too early for arms trafficing jokes? ;D

Apples to hammers!!! <laughs> <lmao> @Jgun, Kaiser was way ahead of the curve for a small company. They didnt disappear because of poor quality. They made some bad business choices with JD Machine. I read somewhere that they were selling their design to a larger company. I wish I had the foresight to buy their left side charging handle.

Yes and no. Not all calibers use the same bolt... But they do use the same carrier. I'm pretty sure the calibers I've seen are 308, 260, 338, 300wsm and 204. Hopefully some of the guys here can impart some wisdom on which use the same bolts. As far as I know they could all be the same or all be different. The charging handle is universal too.

Yeah, everything Jgun said... No comparison to dpms and Armalite?? Is that a good thing, or a bad thing? Who makes the barrel blanks? What contour is the barrel? What is the gas length? Fluted? Dimpled? Chrome? Stainless? What hider/comp/brake are you using? What trigger is being used? Who made the BCG? Chrome? CWS? Fail Zero? What kind of buffer system is being used? Heavy buffer? Flat spring? Hydraulic? Are any of the features ambidextrous? Bad A.S.S.? What kind of gas block is used? Low profile? Adjustable? Piston system? Which charging handle comes with the rifle?

I'm hoping that a 300blk build will scratch an itch I have to build a 7.62x39...

Damn it all. Now I'm even more tempted to do it. I think I read somewhere that ADCO will pin your gas block hole and relocate it. If that's true, in thinking about trying my first idea... If it doesn't work, I'll pin the mid length hole and change it to a carbine length DI. My wife is going to kill me

To me it looks like they used expensive name brand furniture to spice up some run of the mill mil-spec stuff. The forged receiver looks to be an Armalite clone. It even requires the funny grip wedge. The barrel appears to be a hbar with a standard vortex type flash hider. Judging from the lack of flare, I'm guessing this has a mil trigger too. I'm a little set off by the fact they dont put up a price??

I'm not trying to sabotage the OP, but JD doesn't accept LR-20 PMAGs. I had their receiver set and the magazine wobbled considerably front to back. This caused failures to feed unless pressure was applied to the mag while firing. This is no fault to JD, their design precedes the release of the PMAG. I, much like 98, own several LR-20 mags and eventually sold my JD for an SI-D. JD does make a very beautiful and lightweight set. Their attention to detail when mating the upper to the lower is immaculate. I have no doubt in my mind that JD makes a superior quality rifle. There are a lot of guys sporting sub-moa JD's out there.

I read my OP and I even confused myself, let me try this again. I'm at a point in my Mega Arms AR15 build where I need to decide on a caliber. I was planning on building a 5.56 using a 14.5" bbl with a mid piston system and a v1.5 Battlecomp. Now I'm thinking of a 300 blk... I want to keep the 16" OAL. I realize the v1.5 would have to be swapped with a much larger BABC. That means I can cut a little bit more off the barrel to keep that 16" OAL. So now my question is: Do you think there's enough gas in the 300 AAC Blackout to cut the barrel to about 13.9" and keep the mid piston system? I realize the "safe" route would be to use a carbine system... But that would defeat the purpose of being part of this forum! 8)

That's looks like the QD part of the brake. Pull off the Surefire brake and replace with a can.

Anyone know if the 300 AAC blackout barrels will work with Mega's MTS piston system?? I'm thinking about a 16" OAL barrel with a BABC on the end. I realize that I might have to send in a 16" mid to be cut/timed/pinned.

I absolutely LOVE that it is marked "multi". I live in Cali, so having the ambi-mag release means no bullet button. That means I'll be making a dedicated .22lr to match my new "Catch-22" bolt catch. <thumbsup> That also means that, since i havent picked a barrel yet, my Mega Ar15 might end up a 300aac instead of 5.56.

I'm jealous.

The "best" way to do iron sights would be to replace the handguard with a railed handguard. This doesnt necessarily mean a QUAD rail. Just a top rail will do. The easiest and the cheapest way would be just as 98Z5V said. As for which iron sights, that depends on fixed vs flip up. I'm a big fan of the LMT and Daniel Defense fixed sights. As for flip sights, I like the VLTOR tower sight gas blocks, Troy BUIS, and Magpul MBUS. Good sights are going to cost about $150 - $350, depending on what you like. I tricked out a set of Gen2 Magpul MBUS with Trijicon tritium inserts. I love 'em. I did get a really good deal on them though. The whole project only cost me $125.

I thought I did a write up on this... I left the receiver in the freezer over night. I even flipped a duster can upside down and got it extra cold. I then drowned the screw in WD40. The tool was simple to use. Just extend the arms, slide them down the flutes if the tap, tighten the lock and then back out the bit. It took me seconds to do. No marring and no scratches. Voila!

Woohoo! Small and lightweight! I love it. I've been holding out to respond so I would have time to write. I love this idea. Personally I say stay away from the carbon barrel. I ordered one but I'm still at 17"... Go fort a steel barrel and go for the 16" OAL or shorter. It won't be worth the money for a carbon barrel because it won't cut the weight enought to matter. I also say ditch the .308 and go for the .260 Rem! It'll be much more forgiving in the shorter barrel. Besides that, when was the last time you saw a short 260? I also suggest you take a look at those lightweight Remington R25 barrels and have one of those cut to your preferred length. If we can put a rifle length on a 16", I think a 12.5" mid length barrel would be a lot of fun. As for receivers.... AXTS's "AX762" is just begging to be made into a combat monster. If Kaiser were still around, I'd recommend mating the AX to their left-side charging SWS upper. The Noveske switch block fits well into the SWS hand guard, but a modified YHM Spectre would be sexy as sin. If Vltor would get off their asses, and make a VIS monolithic upper for the 308, I'd suggest that in the absence of the first choice. Triggers are all personal preference. A big meaty grip (MIAD?) will save some of the punishment on your hand. Top off the whole project with a Magpul ACS or VLTOR (IMOD or EMOD) stock. Bling the rifle with a T1 and a set of MBUS and you're done!