98Z5V

Damn... That's big enough for a "Granny Pod" right there... This was on Drew, completely. He started The Rule sometime around 2011 or 2012... It's rarely been able to be invoked - but when it CAN be invoked, it's usually expensive... This is it: Here is THE RULE: "If you post, inquiring about a product, be it new or old, and no one responds with a review within 48 hours, you are hereby required to buy said product, and review that product, so that this rule doesn't apply to the next person with the same inquiry. "The Rule" shall not apply to the announcement of new or upcoming products, unless there is some context inquiring as to who will be the first to assume ownership of said product. At that point "The Rule" will once again apply to the poster, who will be obligated to be the first in the stated question. While this shouldn't need to be stated, pictures are required, or that s*** didn't happen."

Alright, grab the popcorn... Crimping 101. These are old pics, because I intended to do this post a long time ago. The info is pertinent, and I've been slacking for way too long. These are from early December, loading up some 6 ARC. ALL of this data is only useful if your brass is trimmed to the same length. ONLY. If your brass is shorter, you'll have less of a crimp. If your brass is longer, it will give you more of a crimp. With that, your load performance will vary, rounds will be all over due to slightly different pressures, and you hate yourself when you can't or don't figure it out - brass that's the exact same length is the key to running a batch of loaded ammo through your crimp die. If your brass isn't the same length, you're just pissing into the wind making test rounds... Okay, now that the Public Service Announcement is out of the way, let's look at it... Here's the 6 ARC Lee Factory Crimp Die just making contact with the brass case. This is how far it's open, which is standard, just what it looks like. It's just barely screwed down to touch the brass... Now, here's where I have it set to, what I like to crimp to in order to run loaded rounds through a gas gun. This is dialed down to where I like it, and the ram handle is all the way down - this is the crimp I like, with these dies - almost touching, not quite, just enough to prevent bullet setback, every single time: Here's that crimped round, from above, compared to an uncrimped round: Here's a little closer view - notice that there are no 4-corner marks from the Lee Factory Crimp Die - I'll have an example of "too much crimp" in a second. This is just a better view of those same two rounds above: Now, here's that round on the left above (uncrimped) after I crimped it, and set it back beside the round on the right that was already crimped: NOW... we have a 3rd round - far right in the pic. IMHO, this is too much crimp. You can see that it's pressed in there pretty far, and this would deform the projectile's copper jacket, if you pulled it and looked at it. Now, what effect would that have on the loaded ammo? Too much crimp WILL change your chamber pressure, very slightly. It's not anywhere close enough to blow up your gun, or anything that serious. BUT - that round above that's crimped tighter than the rest - it's gonna have a higher chamber pressure, and it's gonna fly somewhere else on the intended target. It's gonna be "that flier" in your group that you were shooting. It doesn't mean you're gonna blow your gun up, and it doesn't mean that your loads suck. It just has a different crimp on it, it's tighter, and it's gonna have a different (higher) chamber pressure, and you'd see a higher velocity from it if it was going through a chronograph. And, it's gonna land on that load-development zero target in a different place. That one is one of your "fliers." #1 reason that you'll think your loads suck, even when you're doing everything "right?" - you didn't trim your brass to the same length, and when you crimped those loads, they all got a different crimp. Of course they're gonna be all over, and not give you tight groups... Glad I found these pics. Thus Endeth the Crimping Sermon...

I have another one of his that I'll start a separate topic on, you'll see why. It's pretty fucking good.

Holy Shiit!!! That has to be about $3k in wood!!! How big is the Chicken Mansion gonna be?!!? Dusty is like...

Yep, its completely true. When you're on the gun, the primary thing you need to deal with is breaking an accurate shot, and THEN, trying to keep the target in your scope, THROUGH recoil. Distance determines how well you can do that, primarily, and magnification that you have dialed comes in second. The spotter never has to deal with that, and has solid eyes-on all the way through the shot, and either hit or miss - and makes calls after that. So, explanation - Distance is #1 for managing the shot. The further it is, the more you'll be off target through the scope - and hopefully you can get back on target through the recoil impulse and spot your own shots. The further the target is, the harder that is to do. SO... Too much magnification will hinder you. Your field of view is smaller the higher you're dialed, you shoot, come off target through the recoil impulse, and you can't get back on target when your body settles - and see your own shots. Simple answer? Dial down your magnification, give yourself a wider field of view, and you'll get back on target easier after the recoil impulse. Example, that might counter what I'm saying: Mile Shot with the Win Mag. I have a 6x24 scope on that thing. IPSC target at 1760 yards. I have to have that scope on 24x just to be able to see that thing, and make the shot. Distance helps, in that instance, because the flight time is about 3 seconds. I can get through the recoil impulse, back on glass, and watch my impact, be it hit or miss. Now, if I was running a 34x scope dialed to 34x - my field of view is WAY smaller, and I might not be able to spot my own shots...

I must admit, Todd is getting pretty good at this, with the topic creation entrapment. I still need a vote on my "The Rule" proposal. If you can pull off an entrapment topic, intentionally, and someone takes the bait, calls you on "The Rule..." Then that sucker should have to buy one, too, and test it, and report back... "The Rule" is serious business...

This will be great for @DNP's commute - this is almost 7 hours long. I started it yesterday, and just finished it. It's an unreal interview.

^^^ That does happen, and you'll see the ring on the projo when you pull loads. Pulled projectiles, for me, turn into training rounds, when I reload/reuse the projos. So, neck tension. IMHO, that's a bolt gun term, not a gas gun term. PRS guys and benchrest competitors are into the "proper amount of neck tension" for their loads, but those guys are running bolt guns. They're not "measuring neck tension" in any kind of "measurement" way - they're using a bushing to downsize the mouth of the brass by the thou - until they like their group size, and chrono numbers. There are true methods for measuring neck tension, in real numbers, but that's some labratory-grade equipment to be able to translate the chamber pressures into numbers that you can compare. Again, IMHO, I wouldn't worry about a number, or spiking a pressure on a loaded round - just crimp them until you like the crimp, and test the loads. All the increased pressure you're going to see, based on the amount of crimp that you apply - will show in the brass you're shooting for testing those loads. I'll get some comparison pics in here today of uncrimped loads vs. what I like for my proper crimp, with the Lee Factory Crimp Die.

I love success on a project, and I love a running gun. Great job on making that thing run, man - FINE work!

Thank God she found someone to marry her...

I don't know what I'd do with a giant tub of mac and cheese like that, but watching that sure makes me want to cook it up.

My dumb phone doesn't do that to me... I'm just sayin'...

Hell yeah!!!! I love it!!! One of my favorite movies, brother! That Cerakote color is pretty badass - very well done. I might grab 4oz of that just to paint something with it.

.243 Win is just a necked-down-to-6mm .308 Win case. You can run anything that .308 rounds will fit in, and they'll work fine for the .243.

I have an Oly AR from the Ban Days - one of the most accurate barrels I've ever owned. Have the AR-45 upper, too. People that hated on Oly never owned one - OR - they owned that cast aluminum lower receiver. That thing wasn't very "long-term" but it was cheap. What alot of people don't know is that they were THE ONLY company back then that made 100% of their own parts, right in house, by themselves. And, they made parts for other well-known companies, too.

Like everybody, they got the AR15 stuff right. Everybody has that stuff right, with very, very few exceptions, ever. Because there's a standard, and it's been leaked, and everyone knows the prints. Hardly anyone fuks up the AR15 platform in 5.56/.223 Rem. If someone DOES fuk it up, it's because they're only a dealer in blem parts, or they TRIED to not pay attention to standards. Having a 5.56 PSA gun run shouldn't be a surprise. The Dagger. That's just a Glock. There are 34 parts to a Glock. Change the poly frame a little bit in it's configuration, change some of the angles on the slide - it's still just a Glock 19 that they're making. It's pretty hard to fuk that up, if you buy one, reverse engineer it, change a few of the things I mentioned, and then declare it as a revolutionary pistol. It's still just a Glock. It's the AK of the pistol world - the thing is gonna run, no matter what you do to it. So, for PSA being at the leading edge of technology, and making great guns - I'd buy that line, if they only did the AR15s and the Glock-Copies. But, they can't figure out the .308 Large Frame to save their lives. They're either stubborn, or stupid. Everything is out there, has been for over 10 years now - and they still won't make it right. Because... Money. $$$. Profit margins. Make a cheap gun, that works for some of the people, some of the time, with some of the ammo, call it a "Lifetime Guarantee" and hope nobody smart take you up on that - because those guns don't work. That's my soapbox for tonight...

Good shiit, ain't it?...

Good lookin' out, brother. I forgot about that part of it.

So, I knew right away that port diameter was way low. After running and looking at numbers, it ended up going 0.090" port diameter before the upper was ever built. It went out, was shot with that 0.090" port, and had a very first round, single round lockback, with light lube on the BCG and upper, buffer, spring, internal lube on the receiver extension. Not with normal lube, with the special stuff. Bottom line - the math works. The gun runs, and runs well. Now, the load needs the work, and that one could be a winner...

Awesome deal, brother - glad the pup is healing up. Pets are family members, just like your own kids, or best friends...

@Robocop1051 surprised me with one of those several years ago, out here at the SDTF. As an old M203 gunner - I went apeshiit with it...

I'd add one to the parts list of something new I'm brewing up, but that thing will eventually run an A2 stock. I don't know if I'm ready to add another 1.5" to the LOP on an A2 stock, just yet. I'll check this out, and definitely report back. Might be a few weeks before I can coordinate with the local dude that getting one of these, and get out in the dirt when he's out in the dirt. I'll for sure report back once that happens. This thing looks pretty solid, and pretty slick for packing up, making a lower profile in a smaller gun case.

Yes, but... see later down here... ^^^ Exactly. So, in the Mk11 build thread that I have, I added my old Tubb CWS to it, on a rifle recoil system with a rifle buffer of 5.4oz. That Tubb CWS with tungsten insert adds 3.95oz to the reciprocating mass. I detailed the results in the build thread, after adding, literally, a Quarter Pounder to the reciprocating mass. It was amazing. I don't think this little length-adaptor is gonna affect your rifle's function - if your rifle is built right from the beginning. My $0.02.

The Stern Defense RAB-AD rapid attach buttstock adapter. That's the acronym. Pretty damn smart. I know someone locally that has one of these things coming already, so I'll get to look at it pretty soon. I'll keep you updated on what I think - but I already think it's pretty cool. Final determination later, after that guy gets it in, messes with it, and I get to look at it. Here's the product on the Stern Defense website: https://getstern.com/rab-ad-rapid-attach-buttstock-adapter/ FWIW - prices aren't better anywhere else, looks like MAP is set at a tick under $140, so just get it from Stern Defense, and support the company directly. Here's the MAC view on it, and why it makes so much sense... This is Rumble - so hit the link to watch the vid... https://rumble.com/v26algy-stern-defense-rab-ad-quick-detach-stock-the-accessory-youtube-doesnt-want-y.html For those that love pics, and hate links - here's what it looks like:

Must be the cooler - this one is friendly, too.