98Z5V

Damn, sorry to hear that, man.

^^^ He's right. .308AR rifle buffers are 5.200" long. AR15 rifle buffers are 5.900" long. There are no uses for rifle buffers that are 5.500" long, unless that some custom stuff that someone dreamed up. Make sure your rifle receiver extension is 9 11/16" deep, internally.

Just dump the metric shiit and use numbered drill bits. This is the same chart I always use for reference, all the time, so I always stay consistent. https://littlemachineshop.com/Reference/NumberDrillSize.php

I have some of those, for the front sight bases, if you want one. Just lemme know.

That top one in the pic is a 3.8oz buffer, most. No way you can make it more, with the aluminum body it has. Only way to make a 2.500" buffer heavier than 3.8oz is with a stainless steel body. So, you're going from H1 weight for a buffer, to H3 weight (rifle buffer). If the gun ran fine with the H1 weighted buffer in it, then the gas port was too small, in order to make that "compromise of parts" work correctly. Once that rifle buffer goes in there, the gun isn't gonna run well anymore, until you drill that gas port out to the right size.

Why you selling this one, man? What did it do, what didn't it do? Not trying to ambush your sale, just want to see what you didn't like with it, or what didn't work for you, to put it up for sale now.

I have one of these bad bastards - it's a great knife, for what it was designed for. Fucking shiit up, when that's what you need to do.

That's massive success - walk away, give a mean look back at the crowd, and drop the gun on the ground - like you meant to do that. Whatever that ammo was, it worked. Buy more of it.

@WildWillie, you gotta find this info out first. Very first. This is gonna tell the story on that gun, right away. It'll tell the story on the gas port diameter, based on the buffer weight its got, and it's working fine right now.

Yes, I definitely do know what size it should be. With a proper recoil system.

They make the gas ports small, so they can ship 3.8oz carbine buffers, because that's cheaper to do. You toss a rifle buffer in there at 5.4oz - and you'll over-recoil that too-small gas port. That's specifically what you'll need to look for. If it's running fine now - weigh the buffer that's in there right now. Very cool - I know that area very well. I had an old shooting spot out there, before it got shut down due to shiitheads leaving trash...

You stud... Badass hardware, man.

Just telling you what we need to know about the gun, and that doesn't make you happy. I'll chill out, just as you've asked. Have fun with it, hope you get it running right. Adios.

You'll need to fix the gas port diameter once you install that recoil system. I highly doubt PSA got the gas port right. I'm just sayin'...

Where you at in SE AZ, Bill? Ft Huachuca and Sierra Vista were my stomping grounds for a long time. Welcome aboard, man.

Shiit, that's even before A1, brother - that's M16 upper receiver. No forward assist, no shell deflector. That's a badass historical piece of hardware, right there. I'd find a no-fence old lower, and build that thing into the XM177, with what's going on right there. Even in 9mm.

That won't imitate recoil, from a round fired. It won't imitate the amount of compression that the bumper on the end of the buffer will compress - depending on the recoil system specs, and the gas system specs. Enough Ass, for the Mass? Maybe not. This is a tough sell with you, man. You need to understand this. There IS a spec for a recoil system. There IS a spec for a gas system. Armalite designed it - Eugene Stoner designed it. It WORKS. Everything else, that every other man "Manufacturer" is doing, is whatever they want to do. Bastardize THIS to make THIS work... It's a band-aid, on the wrong cut. You're bleeding out... You've been asked for information, to help your gun run. You've been guided to threads that specify (#1) what this information is, and how to prove it - pics, measurements, etc, and (#2) why that is important for a functional gas gun rifle. You have avoided providing that information, at the least, or, you don't understand that information provided to you, and how to comply, at the most. If it's the latter, or those two, then just explain what you're not understanding here, about the information provided, and why it's necessary. If it's the former, and you just don't want to comply, think this is a stupid process - then I'm out. I'm not helping anymore, in the least. You figure this out. Everything has been laid out before you, given on a FREE INFORMATION Silver Platter to you. Give up information - we fix your gun, and make it run. At this point, it's not in our hands anymore... Hope that makes sense.

Decent information on the background - no ground gained. Just info.

Electric hand drill is perfectly fine, and easy to do. The pilot hole is already right there, just follow it. Slow speed, light pressure on the drill, and just let the bit eat - let the bit do it's work, it will, in short order. If it makes you nervous, shove a 1/4" wooden dowel down the barrel first, for protection of the other side of the barrel. If it's light pressure on the drill, and slow speed, that won't happen anyway, but it's an insurance policy against "BUCK FEVER!" and just going after it!... If you're running a 20" barrel with a rifle gas system, .308 Win caliber, and a 0.750" gas block journal size - that's perfect information. 0.093"~0.096" is exactly where you'll need to land, with a proper recoil system, and that barrel configuration. HOWEVER... You are running a barrel with a 0.936" gas block diameter. You need to target your gas port size right around 0.085", a few thou to either side should be okay. Call it 0.083"~0.087".

There are videos on the internet on how to take a gas block off. That's really the majority of the work that needs to be done. That's how you get to the gas port, and measure it's diameter. And the gas bloc journal size. Once the block is loose from the barrel, you can measure the gas tube length. We can figure out what your gas tube length needs to be, with that good pic up into the upper, showing the protrusion into the upper. Perfect looks like this: If you pay attention to the Waterboarding thread that was already link in here, it specifies what details are needed, and it includes pics, of said details. The other thread I linked in here on gas ports, buffers, etc - that's the WHY on all this stuff is important. You've been given the information. Spoonfeeding to extract information will get very old, very quick. All the info is there for you. You just need to do it, and provide that pertinent info back. Otherwise, we can guess all day. We'll come up with something - might work, might not.

You never did state how long the barrel is. You didn't state what gas system you have - just "see attached pic" that doesn't tell us. Especially when you state the gas tube length - that's not even a length for a common gas tube, unless that's some custom barrel. No gas block journal diameter, no gas port diameter. There's a ton of things going wrong with this gun, but we'll never be able to guess our way through it without accurate information from you... If you want to make this gun run, reliably - then we'll need ALL the information from the Waterboarding thread that was posted. Answers of "see attached pic" don't work. Numbers, though... Numbers work... Numbers from YOU, not some BS that a manufacturer thinks it should be, on any given Sunday... You need to take this thing apart, and measure what's needed to be measured, provide results, and we can fix this gun and make it run. That's really the only way to do it over the internet, looking at pics and written words from someone. Details, are the only thing that makes it run.

You have to buy a new gas tube that's the proper length for your gas system, and your gas port drilling position - by whomever made that barrel. That's the only way to fix that one.

It wouldn't even shock me in the least if someone that works at PSA installed it buffer first, and spring against the back of the BCG. Wouldn't even suprise me to hear something like that. You bought a PSA complete lower - and I had to ask. TSA Bag Smashers and Ramp Monkeys are better than the "gun builders" at PSA.

Exactly. And why I asked in the first place. From the pic, if taken out of the rifle - looks like the buffer went in there first, and the spring was touching the base of the BCG. I didn't take the pics - and nobody has ever taken pics like that before and posted them here - like that. There's a reason to ask, when seeing that.

Also, just based on these pics, and the orientation of the spring and the buffer in the pics... How are you putting the spring and buffer into the extension? I hope it's not like it's shown in the pics. Not trying to insult - asking based on what I'm seeing here.