98Z5V

When did you shoot 1350? That's 3/4 mile. What gun was it?

I'm asking for an update, entirely based on this, and asking what else has been swapped out. We're working with an entirely different animal now, based on what else was swapped and forgotten about. Hence, the whole reason for asking ALL the details - again. Hope you understand THIS side of what's going on - trying to fix your gun, based entirely on your input, over the internet. Ship me the gun. I'll find all I need to know about it when I shoot it. But that's not really practical, or possible. Therefore, we, here - rely on what you state it is.

Why are you changing parts in the BCG in the first place? For what reason? You are adding Race Gun Parts to a perfectly functional BCG, but for what reason? What was the desired outcome, or what you thought you'd improve? You are Complicating Shiit here, with Complicated Shiit. You're potentially creating your own problems, by doing this.

I can tell you now - I'm tired of answering these questions - because we have NO IDEA what we're working with here. Get the details in the Waterboarding Thread up. I'm out, until I know what EXACTLY I'm working with here. Right now, it's all changing, more details, etc. Spill it. All.

We're getting Danger Close to Waterboarding here, where you're giving more details that weren't given before. It's almost time to invoke the Waterboarding Thread on you. You're right there on this line right here, where we have to extract information from you on this gun build... read this thread, and comply with it - because this is getting tired. More info and more info... Just get ALL the info out at once. Comply by this, here:

That means you induced "slop into the system" by putting that part in there. Just my observance. 0.005" is huge, when you're talking about these dimensions and tolerances. Got pics of the bolt lugs with the original, against pic ot the bolts lugs with this Lantac thing in there? That's key, to proving a point here, and priving something caused something else. No pics, no proof, and Lantac will tell you that, directly. Guarantee it.

Ask the manufacturer that question. Not us. We don't know how they manufactured it.

Exactly.

My job, my last 5 years in the .mil service, was "accessing signals." My whole life in .mil was about that - but technology got complicated. You'd be both shocked and bewildered with what can be done to your smart phone signal. You'd be devastated. You're "encrypted" so you're good. Right.... Keep thinking that. That's exactly why I have a dumb phone, and it's for A reason.

Nope. I stepped up a year-ish ago. 4G, bitches. This is my current shiit... https://www.verizon.com/basic-phones/dura-xv-extreme/ I can launch this bitch across the shop floor, and it's just fine. Probably toss it through a wall - and be just fine. Hack my "Cloud..." Good luck. You can't.

I've preached forever, and at least 13 years of my time here on this board - there is no higher Law Enforcement power, than that of a County Sheriff. None. Nobody can over-ride a County Sheriff, or his decision. The LE decision inside that county - rests with the County Sheriff, and nobody can argue that in any court of law. That decision is final.

Let's get some real info in here. Check it:

They're square. Square ejectors cause problems. Been documented gun-board wide. Not saying this is your problem, but it could be feeding into some of the problems you'll see. Bottom line - you need to shoot the gun more. Secondary line - ejectors should have round faces, not square faces. Maybe something to look at. Maybe something to address - after you get more rounds through the gun. Ejector faces should look like this: Just something to think about. Might not be the issue, but square ejector faces ARE an issue.

Nothing wrong with that extractor. Eliminate that from your concern, it's not the issue. What do your dual ejectors look like? Rounded face, or square face?

She's swinging an axe (maul, really) splitting wood, brother. Then, a sword, splitting wood. I don't think she's gonna end up on the Liberal side in this world. I'm just sayin'... AND... she's little - and swinging that thing with authority. That's badass... I'm enamored...

Pics of specific parts will help here. Post a pic of the extractor claw. What recoil spring are you using now? I didn't see a mention on what's in there right now. You still need more rounds through the gun, regardless of those answers, and it needs to be lubed well whilst shooting more.

Bet I could flip her...

The extraction issue could be that - you don't have a good gas seal yet, and have gas escaping, and don't even have the full gas power available until those specific parts are all sealed up. Definitely, could be.

Projectiles are constrained to the diameter they are - the caliber. The heavier a projectile is - it still has to have the same diameter - it's gonna be longer. If it's longer, it's gonna have a higher BC, both G1 Drag Models, and G7. No other way around that. The anomalies in that are Barnes solid copper projectiles. The Barnes 70 TSX projectile (5.56, .224" diameter) that 70gr projectile is longer than a 77 SMK or a 75 Hornady HPBT. Weird. And it works wonderfully. Barnes 70 TSX length - 1.037" Hornady 75 HPBT Match length = 0.981" Sierra 77 SMK length = 0.994"

Overall speed isn't what helps - mass in motion, with a high BC, is what helps at distance. Heavier projectiles are always flatter shooting, if you go to the right distances to try that out. Shoot a 3100fps 55gr 5.56 (M193) projectile at 450 yards, and shoot a 75 or 77 gr projectile moving 2750fps at 450 yards - see which one has less drop at distance. You'd have one hell of a time even getting a 55gr-er to 850 yards, but a 75 or 77 will do that distance with ease. For the Win Mag projectiles you listed, the only one that stands a chance of getting to the Mile is the 210. The others listed don't even stand a chance, no matter how fast that they can be safely made to load. Overall Speed isn't what matters. Mass in Motion, with enough speed, and a high BC - that matters.

Gas block needs to seal to the barrel. Gas tube needs to seal inside the gas block. Carbon fouling is what does that, and creates the carbon seal on those parts, in those locations. 50 rounds is barely scratching the surface to get that done - not enough rounds. Sometimes, it might take 200 rounds. Depends on who made all the parts, how easy (or hard) they went together (indicating tighter tolerances)... Shoot the gun more.

Not a concern, brother, not in the least. My Mk11 Mod 0 gun is 18.5" barrel, speed is 2530fps, with the 178 ELD-X projectile. It's all Lake City .308 Win brass that I got from @dpete. When I reload it, I use CCI 200 primers, Accurate 2495 powder, at 40.6 gr charge weight. Set the COL at 2.795", crimp it, and run it. 2530fps is pretty respectable with that heavy of a projectile, through an 18.5" barrel. Now, the .300 Win Mag is a Rem 700 factory heavy barrel, 26", running a Hornady 225gr ELD-M projectile. Literally, whatever brass. CCI 250 primer, 3.340" COL, 71.8gr of Alliant RL-22. It's cruising 2932fps through the chrono. That's HAULING ASS. With a zero at 500 yards, it's a dial to 16.9 mils for a mile, the 1760yd target. Shiit, man - I have some 195gr Hornady ELD-Ms loaded up - a bag full - that are in .308 Win cases. They work great.

Been running the 178 ELD-X for 2 years now. It really does outperform the other projectiles. By far. It's the very best thing you can buy to shoot .308 Win at longer distances. By far. The big bonus with it is - it's an expanding projectile. Hunt that thing. Develop the load for it, and it's the best target load you'll find. Plus, it expands. It's the best of all projectile worlds, with a better shape, and best BC they can make, and still fit it inside a 2.800 COL, to fit in a magazine. What's not to like? FWIW - I think .300 Win Mag projectiles shouldn't weigh any less than 220 grains...

I'm gonna love the results of tomorrow's test session.