98Z5V

Don't even worry about ejection pattern, right now. "Election Pattern" sells buffers, nothing more. I don't care where the brass goes, as long as it gets OUT of my chamber, then gets OUT of my gun. Anything else is butter. Buffer weights tune where your brass lands. That's the bottom line. With an adj gas block, you need to make the gun RUN first, with already having a solid recoil system in place before you started, and THEN you play with gas pressure. Start Adj Gas Blocks wide open. No other way to tell if the gas port in the barrel is large enough. No other way.

With a full gun that is broken in, you start wide-open on the adj gas block for one reason. Test the size of the gas port in the barrel. Gas block wide open, one round in the mag, test single-round lack back. One round in the mag SHOULD lock the BCG back, right after you fire that one round. If the gun is broken in - if it doesn't lock back after one round in the mag, with that adj gas block wide open - then that tells you that the gas port diameter in your barrel isn't large enough. Every other process is just a waste of time, ammo, and money. If it doesn't lock back - you address the gas port issues, very first.

That's the backwards way to play with an adjustable gas block, but glad it's running. Always run an adjustable gas block WIDE OPEN, as far as it will go, when testing a build. Everything else is a waste of ammo. Dial it down to what you want, after it runs reliably.

IF he would have opened that door... i was there, waiting... Late at night, that midnight snack, right when you reach for that door... I might be there, I might not. Might be your lucky night. Never know. Get down there tonight around midnight, and find out... Yank that handle, and be ready...

5 7/16" for a buffer is way wrong. AR15 rifle buffers are 5.900" long. .308AR rifle buffers are 5.200" long. Rock River Arms LAR-8 rifle buffers are different, and don't count in that. 5 7/16" - 5.4375" doesn't match up to anything known. Either the measurement is off - or that buffer length is way off. Next, it's a PSA PA-10, so the gas tube probably isn't the right length, from the beginning, and the gas port in the barrel is probably too small. It might have functioned, before, but that's because PSA sends those guns out with a cobbled up bullshiit carbine recoil system, that barely covers for the other gas system mistakes that they make on those guns. Don't take offense to those comments - it's been documented time and time again here. It's just "history" with PSA. You might have alot of work to do to that rifle to make it run.

This is the gun, as it sits now, brother - with that lead weight in it's ass... LaRue LT-158 mount, with 10 MOA built in - not necessary for the BDC scope - but if I need to start dialing, I can, and that 10 MOA give me an edge, for as far as a 75gr Hornady HPBT handload will go at 2789fps. MagPul 45* offset irons on the gun - no matter for this match, but they're on there, and zero'd for 36 yards. LaRue MBT2S trigger. BADASS Ambi satefy. That's it for the gun. There's no scope level on this gun. I typically only put a scope level on a gun that goes 1k yards. This handload maxes out at 950 yards supersonic. So, doesn't meet my personal rule for a scope level. Just the rationale for why there isn't one on there, brother.

Brother, I'm trying to stay hardcore. No bags at all, because I won't have bags swinging around when I'm out shooting-for-need. We enter the Open Class, no limits, so I could use a bag if I wanted. I'm just stubborn, because I won't notmally be lugging a bag around with me... I'm just running the Mk12 Mod 1, with the MagPul bipod and the KAC VFG. I use that VFG as a barricade device often. I use that bipod as a barricade device, too. On that pipe pyramid, I jammed those bipod legs down into the space between two of those corrugated PVC monsters, and leaned into it. Worked like a champ, one of the stages that I cleaned. The first rifle shot back in May was the 6 ARC LaRue gun. Feeding issues from the mags sucked, but the shots were on the money with the mil drops and dope. The feeding issues pissed me off. In June, I had the feeding issues figured out, but i'd already decided to take the Mk12 Mod 1 with me, because it has the PA 4~14 BDC scope on it. I did great (better than first time) with it. Longest shot out there will only ever be 710 yards, and we haven't seen that one yet, over 4 months. In April, before we were shooting this, they had that one out there, so it's coming sometime. That Mk12 can handle 710 with no problems, so this is my gun for this match. Permanent. I know the load, I know how it shoots, I know the wind for it - I'll keep using it for this. So, I shot that match in June, and decided that I just wanted better glass. Not that the 4~14 is bad - it's great. I replaced it with the PA 3~18 BDC scope. I didn't need the additional magnification - I find that after every match, and throughout every match, I end up on 11 for magnification. I just wanted better clarity, and I got it with that 3~18. That's a BADASS scope from PA. I don't have to dial anything, I don't have to remember mils for targets - know the ranges beforehand, and use the BDC. If something is 330 yards out there - well, that's a third over 300 in the BDC. It's working. Well. If I don't fuk myself up... Last month, when we had to shoot off that Sex Swing - I didn't realize how bad I was swinging, firing when the platform was swinging back - and I was making it worse - until I fired when it was moving forward. Everything STOPPED, right then. I had a standard A2 on it. So, after last month, I replaced that A2 with the VG6 2-port Gamma brake and the CAGE device - works great on the other guns. Too it out to re-zero - and sure enough, I was 1 mil low and 1 mil right. Set the scope - good deal. We made our own Sex Swing, and I tested it from that, and I was smacking the 450 steel from the swing, as fast as I could reacquire target. Made a difference. I FUCKED UP for this match, though... I got a 3.5lb lead weight from White Oak Armory, and it arrived on Thursday, before the match on Saturday. Had to make it fit around the Noveske Flush Cup for the sling mount, that goes through the stock body, and it went in there. No time to shoot it before the match. I changed my zero slightly, but not much. On tiny targets at 200-ish yards, i was missing targets. At distance, I was still hitting targets - crushed that 655 first-round. Cleaned that whole stage, almost-first-round on them all. I think that one was 9 targets, i was out of there in 11 shots. But the zero is off a little. That caught me. I'll take it out this Sunday and re-zero the run, so I'll post where it is now, and the new zero. Tell you about that 3.5lb lead weight in the ass of that A2 stock - it eliminated movement. there were several times in this last one that I would miss a distance shot, WATCH that thing miss and send a follow-up hit shot - before the spotters were calling the initial miss. It's a Camp Perry Service Rifle Match kinda-thing - but it works. The downside... Zero the fucking gun!!! Other downside - I have some big .308ARs that are lighter than that Mk12 Mod 1 now... LMFAO!...

Hellish deal on that gun, brother - I hate to see it go, but I get it. Someone is getting a winner.

What brand? Some are good, and some suck. Don't sweat this too much - we'll get this gun running. Major parts accounted for, it's got solid operational gear.

Post a direct link to the chest rig that you bought- that will help. I hit this for a search "taps chest rig" - and I came up with this... https://www.google.com/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=taps+chest+rig&client=firefox-b-1-d&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwid07DDu9_yAhXOvp4KHcw0Cg0QjJkEegQIAhAC&biw=1519&bih=687 No idea what you have.

Zero need EVER to plan to build a "Kino Carbine" - and NOT use this barrel. Zero need. Buy this KAK barrel, if you're down for a Kino Build.

^^^ Those are two things working against you, right off the bat. You can fix one, easily, and that's "Lube it UP!" Heavy. You can't fix the 12 rounds-issue, and sealing the gas block t the barrel, gas tube to the gas block - that's carbon fouling that does that. You could do the Loc-Tite thing that alot of people swear by, but I personally thing that's stupid. As fuk. Shoot the gun to seal those small ports - let it do what it's supposed to do.

What ammo are you running through this thing? Lets start with that.

What is your question, exactly? On the chest rig? Or magazines? Expect to do work on that PSA gun that you just bought, just to make it run right. That's not me - that's just history.

That's years of time, sweat and money, to come up with that info - the hard way. I'm glad that it's out there for people to find, glad that you found it, and I hope it solved some issues for you. That's the whole reason for it in the first place.

DAMN! What do they think that stuff is?! .338 Lapua?!...

Well, ^^^ that little fucker shocked me, and ran like a CHAMP right out of the gate! From first round, single-round lock back, to beating it up. I passed if off to Matt and DirtBike Tommy, they yanked trig on it hard - and it just ran. And ran, and ran. This is a solid barrel from KAK - it WORKS, just like it is. They did it well.

I'm close, for the Cerakote process. I soak everything in Acetone overnight, day before painting/spraying. I rack it all before it gets into the "Acetone tub." Next morning, I pull each set of racked parts out, hang them, gas-out in the oven, and they go directly from the oven to the painting/spraying rack and get shot with the paint. After a minimum of 12 hours in Acetone, I've never pulled anything from the gas-out that needed to be redone. So it's on to the spray after that. In the 2014~2015 era, I was sandblasting the hell out of parts, to perfection - took them down to raw aluminum, before Cerakote. I realized that was stupid. Leave that Type III hard coat annodize on there, and spray Cerakote right over it. If it ever wears through the Cerakote - then it has to get through the annodize, before it gets to the aluminum. These days, I just scuff high parts and overall with a mean abrasive pad, and into the Acetone they go, racked/wired up. I'm glad that you're winding down, Cliff - you deserve it, brother. Good for you.

I like that one. ALOT!...

That's right in my lane, right there. Welcome aboard.

@Warriorone, start working on this part, in the meantime. Make sure that happens. Thanks in advance.

We have no idea, because we've never seen any of the pics of the "marring on the cartridges..." You starting to smell what I'm spreading yet? Pics, man. Your videos are cool. They tell PART of the story - I picked up in the first vid, that SOMETHING STOPPED YOUR RECOIL IMPULSE, DEAD IN IT'S TRACKS. I initially thought that you had a rifle recoil buffer in a carbine receiver extension... It was that fucked up, in that vid, when it happened. You're here, looking for a resolution. WE CAN'T HELP YOU with that. Know why? You won't comply with details... It's not easy diagnosing gun-function problems over the internet - but if we're given the proper information, we NAIL IT about 90% of the time. And then some. Read this - come back after you read it...

PIcs are mandatory now. Post pics of the contact, or we're wasting our time here... This will be the first step, in trying to figure out what's going on...

You just turned me on... I have a 45-70 handload that you need to shoot... Bring that thing down here, too, brother. We're shooting those things at the mile. So far, it's just been me and @JBMatt - so adding another person into the mix will be great! Other people have pulled the triggers on those two guns - but nobody else with enough-gun has brought one out, since we started doing this...

Never really thought about this in the Cerakote process, but it makes sense. You "gas-out" the parts that you'll be Cerakoting, at 300* for an hour. If you properly cleaned them before gas-out, it's ready to go, right to spray, on parts that were just 300*. If there's any oil signs or oil residue (shiny spots, from oil moving) on the parts after gas-out - then they need to be cleaned again before spraying. I'm sure the gas-out step is there to make sure you properly cleaned before spraying - but that hot-ass metal is gonna take the spray better. Great info, Cliff.