-
Posts
39,333 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by 98Z5V
-
Of course, I am. Just ask me.
-
I'm missing something in here, brother. I'm just not catching it, but I will. Something is going on between the recoil system and the gas system, and your gas port is huge for what you're doing. Go over the barrel configuration again, list it out. 20"rifle gas, 18" rifle gas, gas block journal diameter, whatever. There's something here that's not working with the other parts. Before you drill any more, list out the barrel specs, the total gas system specs, and the total recoil system specs. Oh, and wheredo you think the brass should go? What's your goal for ejection, like, where are you wanting that brass to land, or thinking it should land?
-
See?... Just one comment gets you two "complete innocents" dragged right in, every time... Here's what I think, every single time I see you two either get dragged in, or just get into it...
-
That's a first-gen DPMS LR-308, and it was built at the factory and sold from the factory as a complete rifle. The whole "K" thing was only on stripped lower receivers on the original (not the G II receivers) LR-308s. They stamped a K at the very end of the serial number, as a way to identify all the LR-308 lower receivers that they manufactured and sold as "stripped lowers." Now, you need a pic of the upper receiver in here, so we can help you identify if you have a High or Low profile upper receiver. Here's a cheat guide for that - keep clicking it (3 times on my computer) and it gets bigger: @imschur - you'll love the link, brother...
-
I get it, brother, I do. Yeah, you can make a light buffer work, and we know one company that does it all the time, by telling their consumers that "they NEED an adjustable gas block..." They (the company) know who they are... And they're just putting the band-aid on the wrong cut... I get it, brother.
-
That's my whole goal here, man - ALL of us here... If you learn how the rifle works, then you know how to fix it when it does "x" or "y". Or, if a part breaks, you can figure out why it broke, and fix that part or situation that lead to the breakage, so it doesn't happen again. Or, if you know the different systems, and how they interact, you can change one, and know what you need to change for the other(s). Writing legibly, and concisely - ever train an Army Private?... Some of those guys can be just like a rock with lips, and you have to get them to understand. I spent more than 20 years training some pretty crazy shiit - and it payed off for me. I can't take the credit for that - that has to go to the US Army, and all those that "trained me to train" in my past. I had some very badass mentors.
-
You'd have to dig for that stuff - best way to track it all down is by searching out the complete history of Eugene Stoner - and there's not just one resource out there. Here's a good start: https://ammo.com/articles/eugene-stoner-creator-ar-15-americas-rifle-forgotten-history All of the Carbine variants - ALL of them, were "developed by Colt," after Armalite sold the rights and specs to Colt. Stoner left Armalite in 1961, to go work for Colt. So... you know who designed all the Carbine variants... More of his work came out starting in 1990, until his death in 1997, when he worked with Knight's Armament.
-
IF you guys start digging into Congressional Medal Of Honor (CMOH) stuff - you'll find amazing people in unreal times doing unbelievable things that are impossible - for their brothers, right then and right there, in THAT moment. Scary thing? They're just normal people, from normal places, with normal upbringings. Just reading CMOH citations will make you cry.
-
Good push, brother. Side note for Doc, here - Berger 185gr Juggernauts - you better be running the 1:10" twist rate, and they're fuckin' MAGIC!... I still have these for you, brother. No way could I just hog them all up - I saw what they did, and decided to STOP until YOU get here. They're safely stored, until we can meet again, and sling lead. ❤️
-
Based on the gas port location, barrel length, and the (ASSUMING HERE!!!) 0.750 gas block journal diameter - because you never stated the gas block journal diameter - what I told you before should work. 0.080"~0.083" range on your gas port will have you running, zero issues. If that's wrong, and it has to go up from there - then we will BOTH learn from this... Both the barrels I could find, matching what you state, are both 1:11.25" twist. https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Match-Grade-Barrel-308-WIN-Recon-Tactical-16-1-1125-Twist-Stainless-Fluted/productinfo/TR-308RCIG16FT11.25/ https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Match-Grade-Barrel-308-WIN-Ranger-16-1-1125-Twist-Stainless/productinfo/TR-308RAIG16RT11.25/ That's real cool for 168gr projectiles, and it's the minimum twist rate to run (determined to be the "optimum" twist rate to run) for Sierra MatchKing 175gr projectiles. You run anything heavier, and you're out of twist. Most modern .308 Win twist rates are the faster 1:10" twist. I run that for the 178s that I load, and the 195s that I try... I'll perfect those bastards, one day, and they'll slay dragons.
-
I need to meet that guy. He might be able to help me with my deer-technique...
-
Chief, read this. It didn't take 15 minutes to write. It took the better part of 10 years on these things to figure it out.
-
.308ARs will only run on a 3.8oz buffer if the manufacturer of that gun cheaped out, and made that bullshiit "in-between" gas port location drilling - not AR15 gas port location, and not Armalite AR-10 gas port location - but IN BETWEEN... AND, they'll only run on a 3.8oz CHEAP 2.500" long buffer, in an AR15 Carbine receiver extension - IF... they drilled the gas port diameter TOO SMALL, in order to run that lightass, cheapass buffer... Most of the time, for most of the people, with most of the commercial weakass-off-the-shelf ammo. That seems to be their mantra... "Send it back to the factory, and we'll look at it..." And it returns, THE SAME... "We found no problems..." Of course, you cheapass bastards didn't find a problem... Period. .308AR buffers cost money. They need to be 5.4oz, to properly cycle the firearm. "Enough ASS to control the MASS..." You've heard it enough - you should know better. Any lighter buffer is a DOLLAR COMPROMISE from a cheapass manufacturer, and they're cutting corners in other places just to make that work. Know why? TUNGSTEN IS EXPENSIVE. SO ARE STAINLESS STEEL BUFFER BODIES. Aluminum bodies are MUCH cheaper. Steel weights are MUCH cheaper. I've already delved into this in so much detail, it's not even funny anymore, and you know where those posts are, Eric. You should have pointed him directly to those posts. On your own. You've been here long enough to know that.
-
That Aero Carbine 308 spring is gonna let you down, badly. Just put the Armalite EA1095 spring in it and be done. With the A5 extension, Clint's buffer, and the EA1095 spring - you'll have a fail-proof recoil system. Any issues you have after that are 100% gas system issues. That recoil system is bulletproof.
-
PICTURES!!! Post them up. No other way around this, when you don't know what you have - and WE certainly don't know what you have. Post pics of your receivers. Can't think of another fix, but that.
-
Details matter, Fred. Measure that thing when you get home - the one that's coming out, AND the one you ordered to go back in there. I'm thinking the one that's coming out is 2.500" long - and the one that you want to go in there is 3.250" long. And that's not gonna work with the receiver extension that you have. Hit it when you get home...
-
I bought an expensive 5.56 Match A2 flash suppressor from a great company a few years ago, to put on the Woody - which is a complete 5.56 National Match-built gun - just with wood furniture. When that expensive NM A2 flash suppressor came in, I was all about measuring it, spec'ing it, finding out what made it "National Match..." The bore size in it, compared to a regular old A2, was another 0.020" bigger. I dropped the bucks, and I could have done that with a reamer, myself. But, I didn't know that, THEN... You'll be fine, brother - clear the projectile, and just run with scissors...
-
I've never talked about the VLTOR A5 system, as it pertains to a .308AR, because the A5 buffer is 4.000" long - too long to run in a .308AR. The VLTOR A5 system was designed to give the US Marine Corps a collapsible stock system for their M16A4s that is as reliable as the fixed stock rifle recoil system. All it is: Start with the Armalite AR-10 Carbine receiver extension, put it on the M16A4, figure out that the buffer will need to be 4.000" long to make that happen (then make those buffers), and run the M16 rifle recoil spring to operate it all. That's the VLTOR A5 system in a nutshell. VLTOR A5 receiver extensions, Armalite AR-10 Carbine receiver extensions, and MagPul SR25/M110 receiver extensions are all 7 5/8" internal depth. All are properly interchangeable with each other, and all are very high quality. When you run them on a .308AR, you need to run a buffer that's 3.250" long. Oh, the AR15 Carbine buffer length?... Correct. The smartest buffer to run is the H3, at 5.4oz, because that's what the original rifle buffer weighs, and you compromise nothing that way. I've talked alot on the VLTOR A5 recoil system here - I run that in 4 out of 5 Grendels, on the .224 Valk, and on the 6 ARC. If you're talking about just running the A5 extension - that's doable. The A5 operating spring is a no-go on a .308AR, and so are any of the A5 buffers.
-
The only way I'd be able to rule out the quality of the ammo that you are using, is if you told me that you've only used Hornady factory-loaded Match ammo to break this gun in. Surplus ammo can degrade over time. Some surplus ammo can turn to absolute shiit. Don't blame the ammo - until you use modern, NEW .308 Win ammo that's recently purchased somewhere...
-
And shiit customer service, when they send you the wrong thing - or the part they sent you was a true "functional reject" that they bought cheap and resold higher. There's TONS of information on Google searches about that shiitass company. And the same company, with it's other names...
-
The VLTOR A5 system WILL NOT WORK for a .308AR. Will NOT. I can run the math for you, if you want, but I've already written threads about this stuff, with details. The only recoil systems I run in my Grendels, the .224 Valk, and the 6 ARC are VLTOR A5 systems, so I don't toss my information around lightly. I have 6 or 7 large frame ARs, in different calibers, too, so I know what's gonna work in a .308AR Large Frame AR - and the VLTOR A5 is not going to work. At all. No matter what. Eh, that's just my $0.02 on it, though...
-
REDEEMED!!!...
-
You'll be fine, brother. I've drilled them less than that to pass weird calibers. I drilled my .308 Win brake to clear my .338 Fed, with less than 0.030" clearance, and it's never been a problem. And the .358 Win is a .358" projectile.









