98Z5V

I bought an expensive 5.56 Match A2 flash suppressor from a great company a few years ago, to put on the Woody - which is a complete 5.56 National Match-built gun - just with wood furniture. When that expensive NM A2 flash suppressor came in, I was all about measuring it, spec'ing it, finding out what made it "National Match..." The bore size in it, compared to a regular old A2, was another 0.020" bigger. I dropped the bucks, and I could have done that with a reamer, myself. But, I didn't know that, THEN... You'll be fine, brother - clear the projectile, and just run with scissors...

I've never talked about the VLTOR A5 system, as it pertains to a .308AR, because the A5 buffer is 4.000" long - too long to run in a .308AR. The VLTOR A5 system was designed to give the US Marine Corps a collapsible stock system for their M16A4s that is as reliable as the fixed stock rifle recoil system. All it is: Start with the Armalite AR-10 Carbine receiver extension, put it on the M16A4, figure out that the buffer will need to be 4.000" long to make that happen (then make those buffers), and run the M16 rifle recoil spring to operate it all. That's the VLTOR A5 system in a nutshell. VLTOR A5 receiver extensions, Armalite AR-10 Carbine receiver extensions, and MagPul SR25/M110 receiver extensions are all 7 5/8" internal depth. All are properly interchangeable with each other, and all are very high quality. When you run them on a .308AR, you need to run a buffer that's 3.250" long. Oh, the AR15 Carbine buffer length?... Correct. The smartest buffer to run is the H3, at 5.4oz, because that's what the original rifle buffer weighs, and you compromise nothing that way. I've talked alot on the VLTOR A5 recoil system here - I run that in 4 out of 5 Grendels, on the .224 Valk, and on the 6 ARC. If you're talking about just running the A5 extension - that's doable. The A5 operating spring is a no-go on a .308AR, and so are any of the A5 buffers.

There aren't links, brother. I can't link different articles on the web about it - because I've never found any. This stuff is experience, and it's all in my brainpan. I don't know how to put up a link to that stuff - if you followed a bad link there, you'd be scarred for life...

The only way I'd be able to rule out the quality of the ammo that you are using, is if you told me that you've only used Hornady factory-loaded Match ammo to break this gun in. Surplus ammo can degrade over time. Some surplus ammo can turn to absolute shiit. Don't blame the ammo - until you use modern, NEW .308 Win ammo that's recently purchased somewhere...

And shiit customer service, when they send you the wrong thing - or the part they sent you was a true "functional reject" that they bought cheap and resold higher. There's TONS of information on Google searches about that shiitass company. And the same company, with it's other names...

The VLTOR A5 system WILL NOT WORK for a .308AR. Will NOT. I can run the math for you, if you want, but I've already written threads about this stuff, with details. The only recoil systems I run in my Grendels, the .224 Valk, and the 6 ARC are VLTOR A5 systems, so I don't toss my information around lightly. I have 6 or 7 large frame ARs, in different calibers, too, so I know what's gonna work in a .308AR Large Frame AR - and the VLTOR A5 is not going to work. At all. No matter what. Eh, that's just my $0.02 on it, though...

REDEEMED!!!...

You'll be fine, brother. I've drilled them less than that to pass weird calibers. I drilled my .308 Win brake to clear my .338 Fed, with less than 0.030" clearance, and it's never been a problem. And the .358 Win is a .358" projectile.

I'll answer your other post in detail, later. I'm still unpacking the truck...

How long is the buffer that you pulled out? 2.500" long? What specific H3 Carbine buffer did you order, and was it an AR15 part? Because those are 3.250" long. We can still work with this, and fix it-and you keep that H3 buffer.

Gas port is too small. I'll get into details later, unpacking the truck from a shoot this weekend. For that barrel length and gas system, you'd need to be in the 0.080~0.083" range for a gas port diameter. Wilson's Intermediate 13.250" gas tube puts that gas sstem between midlength and rifle length gas systems. Dwell time is weird on it, not what we're used to seeing. My $0.02. There shouldn't be any .308AR out there that's not running a 5.4oz buffer in it, with the correct spring. Ever. Unless you're a Race-Gunnner, making money from sponsors from all your Top 5 Finishes, and all those first place Race Gun trophies... Light buffers in .308ARs belong in tuned Race Guns, that only shoot one "pet" competition load, to earn you money on that Race Gun Circuit.. But, that's just my opinion, FWIW...

Had expensive cameras, and print photos that we take digi pics of these days, just to prove it... I still have print pics, in boxes in the garage. I need to convert that shiit to digital, and be done with the boxes.... P.S. THere's some bad bitches in those pic-boxes in the garage...

I'm with these guys on the .308ARs - doesn't matter where it goes, as long as it gets the fuk out of the gun. If it's ejecting so hard that it's smashing case mouths so that I can't reload them - even run them through a resizing die - then I do something. However, you CAN TUNE YOUR EJECTION PATTERN WITH BUFFER WEIGHT. If your gun isn't causing you any problems, Fred, then don't fuk with it. If it feeds, extracts, ejects, and cycles the next round - on any ammo that you can feed it - you've built a damn good gun. If you want to change that ejection pattern a little, then heavier buffer weight will move it more rearward, in an ejection pattern. It's up to you if you want to mess with it. You've posted zero gun-details, and that's the first start - post up all your gun details.

Sweet Jesus, I hope you have a pic of this , brother...

This is the kinda shiit we pull in the desert. I'm just sayin'... At some point, in every shoot, there's one of those moments when you just yell "EVERYBODY JUST RUN!!! NOW!!!..."

In light of the past couple days...

Brass, and money, brother! Check your PMs... and Fml...

Pretty damn good, brother - I love stuff like that!...

Welcome aboard, man. Ask away, anytime you feel the need. 3 major designs in the .308AR platform, and don't fall into the advertiser-trap, where they call almost EVERYTHING that they sell "AR-10." 95% of the time, those parts will not work in an Armalite AR-10... and they're DPMS LR-308-based parts in the first place... Ask, before you buy - and provide links to parts when you can...

OOooooh! Save that brass, brother!!!...

Just post a topic and ask about parts - before you buy. We'll make sure you don't get stuff that's not going to work right. Welcome aboard. I almost asked that last night, when I saw the screen name...

Fuckin EPIC...

You just blew out your ass-gasket, right there, Mouth.

You, I'm calling YOU OLD. I know you're old...

I think this needs to ride... forever. Another example of bad youth, or something. Preserve this for the history of the board. Forever. Let all search it, for the times. Lesson - don't be a fuckhead know-it-all - when you're the one with the questions, and can't figure out your own gun, on a platform that you know nothing about in the first place...