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Doesn't matter - it's a badass plan, brother... @Matt.Cross ended up costing me a whole Grendel over one of these things - thanks to his gracious nature. THAT was pure evil, on his part. He knew EXACTLY what he was doing, when he did it, too...

Damn, that was Placeholder 6 in the "Gas tubes, barrel gas ports, and buffer weight" thread. It was pretty well explained in that post. With the buffer and BCG moving through the recoil cycle together, it's not gonna matter which one you add weight to. It really won't. The reciprocating weights inside the buffer body are there to counter "bolt-bounce", but other than that - if your scope is jumping off target, add more weight to the recoil system. Calm that gun down. Excessive recoil is why the scope is jumping off-target. Whether you add it to the buffer or the BCG doesn't matter - HOWEVER... The Tubb CWS is discontinued. You can't get that anymore, it's gone from the market. (Hint,.. @Matt.Cross...) For me, already running a 5.4oz .308AR rifle buffer, AND having a Tubb CWS on hand - the easiest thing for me to do was put that CWS into this gun, right into the back of the BCG, and test it. Whammo - another 1/4lb in reciprocating mass. Solved the issue I was having, too. So, with no way to get a CWS now, what can you do IF you have this issue? Buy a 10oz buffer from Slash. Hit up HeavyBuffers.com, and buy this 10oz gem right here: http://heavybuffers.com/ar10rifle.html

That was this gun right here that it went into - Tubb Carrier Weight System - this is it's thread here, but not where I talked about it, and why adding it back into this gun - I'll try to find that comment...

Nobody makes what he's looking for. One company makes this one, but it's only 5.56, and only works with their uber-expensive suppressor: He won't buy a suppressor - can you imagine the amount of time that would be put into research? And, he's going about this thread backwards, if the suppressor was the real priority - he'd be finding the perfect suppressor first, then finding that company's suppressor host for it...

Here's when that went down in the thread:

The AAC Brake-Out was already mentioned - he didn't like that, because it's "brake."

That Athlon above will be WAY more accurate at ranging distances (even of deer), and the illuminated reticle will help with dusk and dawn light. I love my PA mil-dots, but I won't be buying any more of them - I'll be buying these Athlons instead.

Two recommendations, man - Oh, and I'm a little jealous. I've tripped myself into a 7mm-08 build, sometime in the future, and I cannot avoid it or duck it. It must be done... You can't use a BDC scope from anybody, because of the caliber. Run a mil-dot scope, so you can figure out your dope/drop at your distances, and then you can either dial it, or just hold it. I have two scope for you, and one is gonna come with a higher recommendation over the other. Primary Arms 4-14 mil-dot. Selling price is $229 from Primary Arms. It's a basic mil-dot scope, but very nice quality - the clicks on the turrets are good, the glass is good, and it won't fail you. It's First Focal Plane. It's a great basic scope, that will get the job done. Here's a link to it: https://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-4-14x44mm-riflescope-mil-dot-pa4-14xffp Here's it's reticle: With a 7mm-08, even at 500 yards, you have 5 mils of hold with that reticle, and a 7mm-08 isn't gonna drop 5 mils at 500 yards - it's gonna be less. So this scope will work for holds at distances to that range, at least. I have 3 or 4 of these scopes, and like them alot. I won't be selling them, no way. Next, and my higher recommendation, which goes to the Athlon Optics Talos BTR 4-14 scope, with the APLR2 reticle. Now, this is basically the exact same scope as the Primary Arms 4-14 above, but it's price is higher because it's got a GREAT illuminated reticle. I only have one of these scopes right now, but I'll be buying ALOT more of them. It's MSRP is $375, but street price is right around $300. Here's a link to it: https://athlonoptics.com/product/rifle-scopes-talos-btr-4-14x44-aplr-ffp-ir-mil/ Here's it's illuminated reticle - click that pic to make it bigger:

Thank you, sincerely. Please give more details in the two things above, in the red and the orange. In the red, are all the parts in that sentence Aero Precision parts? For the orange, can you post a link to the adjustable compensator? How long is that buffer? It's either 5.200" long, or it's 5.900" long...

Couple different Wilson Combat barrels, MANY BA barrels. Many. I'll go for a BA barrel hands down, if they have the caliber and profile that I want, and I won't even think twice about it - those barrels deliver. When I've hit a spot where I've needed or wanted a specific profile that BA just doesn't make, like a lightweight, I turn to Faxon. When I hit a caliber that I can't find, Wilson Combat makes it... I went Wilson Combat on the .260 Rem and the .338 Fed. Both those barrels are outfuckingstanding. That .260 barrel is crazy-accurate. Those two barrels make me wish I'd tried other calibers that they make - but I'll never turn my back on the BA barrels, no way. My BA Grendel barrels - nothing can touch those things. Krieger... I have an old barrel from Krieger-Criterion, custom profile made by them from 10 years ago, when those two companies worked together, hand-in-hand. It was a custom profile that they made for Fulton Armory. That's probably the best barrel that I own. I'd have to build way more guns up from BA barrels and Wilson Combat barrels and test them against it, to say different. This was the final scope zero on that barrel, and I'm probably the reason that they're not all touching. Prone, bipod, no rear bag - just shooting. If you can't shoot like that, you can't shoot. IMHO. Here's the gun I rebuilt that barrel into - all because of finding a unicorn rail.

In times of crisis, you better not forget about the pus$y-aspect of that crisis... I'm just sayin'... LIsten to this, go get some ass.

You're an Ask-Hole. You're gonna ask alot of questions, get alot of input- then ignore everything that's been presented to you. Because you "research" - and you're never gonna find your "right answer." You don't shoot - you just internet, and look for opinions. You'll NEVER find what's right, because you don't pull the trigger and shoot, and TRY products. Research isn't gonna get you what YOU want. Trial and Error will, though. Here's what i would do - but you won't do it. Even if I told you that I've already used it on several builds, multiple calibers. You won't care. You won't listen, either. Research this pic, and find out what the parts are - They WORK: These work quite well, too:

Gonna need alot more details. With periods after sentences. Not gonna wade through mish-mash thoughts barfed onto the screen, at random. Went through that 15 years ago with ATV kids that couldn't complete a sentence, trying to diagnose why their quad wouldn't run right.

That sucks - I was wondering about this a couple weeks ago, seriously. Move to a Wilson Combat or a Ballistic Advantage barrel, no kidding.

Here we go, Boners and Revolvers...

Gas systems can be very accurate. All 7 of my large-frame ARs are direct impingement gas. They're all good. Now, maybe you ARE asking too much from one gun build. That's why I have 7 - and they're all different, because each one of them does something better than the other one. They all have different reasons for building them. What YOU need to do for your first build, is figure out the things that you REALISTICALLY want it to do. Post those expectations up. We'll let you know what part of your expectations just can't happen with that combination of parts - and what WILL work.

I would say that the most reliable .308AR system you can build, that MUST last the test of time, be neglected, work everytime, shoots any ammo that you pick up or find,function in good weather AND bad weather... Has a ToolCraft BCG, it has an Armalite AR-10 recoil system, it had the proper-length gas tube for your barrel configuration, and it has the proper sized gas port in the barrel. IF it has those things, it will run, always, with any ammo. It's SIMPLE. It DOESN"T involve uber-expensive parts. It involves very proven, reliable parts that function properly every single time. They may not be cheap parts, but you can find deals on them, and they work very well together. Accuracy? More of that is YOU than it is the gun parts that you buy, but some of it is the parts that you buy. I'll bet I can hand you one of several ARs that I have that will cold-bore first-round an IPSC steel plate at 850 yards, everytime - and you can't get it to shoot like that. That's where trigger time, a very solid foundation in shooting fundamentals, and alot of additional training come in. If you really want accuracy, look at 2-stage triggers. And buy a good quality barrel. Don't use shiit Chinese or airsoft parts, use real gun parts, throughout the gun build. Get a good optic, and spend the money on a good mount. If you do those simple things, that gun will outshoot you... You'll need to get better, in order to outshoot that aspect of the parts selection. If seems like you just want to argue, or stir the pot or something, though - because you're not listening to a damn thing that has been told to you. You just refuse to listen. What is your Giant Boner about the JP parts, when you've directly stated that all you know is about research? What's the furthest distance that you've ever shot at, and hit? That's not a call-out, that's an honest question, and recommendations on your honest answer will come from that honest answer - because you're gonna need training. Not internet-education, and looking things up - you need training, and then you'll need alot of practice, where you go out on your own, and apply the training that you learned. And that's gonna take alot of $$$ in ammo.

HELL YEAH!!!!

You're a research-aholic. Build a functional gun from known, proven parts that work, don't complicate it - then fuk with it later and mod it all out. But, do that after it runs right. I've told you what works, to make a functional gun, that eats anything you feed it. What you do is up to you. Good luck.

I hit the grill again today, cooked for the parents at their place in Phx. Worked out well, got the timing on these bastards down, when I can keep the heat right at 450.

Use it in a giant batch of Jambalaya?...

Hit this thread - there's a ton of info in here, with numbers, details, explanations, etc.

This is correct. If it's really AR-10, it's the Armalite pattern. If it's stated as DPMS or LR-308, it's DPMS-based in design. That's why we call everything a .308AR. That covers them all. The most common pattern out there for building your own rifles from parts is definitely the DPMS pattern. There are just more companies that went that route. Gas tubes, length, proper gas port position - is a giant clusterfuck in the Big-AR industry. It either uses AR15 gas tubes, or Armalite AR-10 gas tubes (EDIT - Wilson Combat is doing some of their own gas port positions on their own excellent barrels, and special-length gas tubes that they make in-house). Thank barrel sellers for that one, with funky gas port positioning. You really need the barrel in your hands to see what you've got - and an appropriate AR15 gas tube. If it's too short, you wait, and buy the Armalite AR-10 gas tube to solve the problem.

Speaking from personalmilitary experience, and not a Google search, I can tell you that I didn't have a single issue with my M4A1 in Afghani-land. What I'm stating to you about a build isn't someone else's opinion that I stumbled upon in an online article. It's from personal use, lots of training, lots of $$$ worth of ammo, and the most fucked up conditions that you can imagine. Why would you want to use something like that when the manufacturer is telling you not to? I don't have to swap any buffers of tune any gas on my guns. I pull out the magazine loaded with 178gr ELD-Xs, and I load the magazine of 195gr HPBTs. Or, I load the magazine of 150gr FMJ-BTs. Or the mag of 168gr HPBTs... I don't have to tune, swap, or change anything. Are you understanding the information that's being presented to you? At any rate, you do whatever you want - and good luck. You don't seem to listen. You play it however you want,build whatever you want. Hope it works for you.