98Z5V

Worth a shot - read the reviews, and see if anyone has commented on the accuracy of those barrels - I haven't seen negative accuracy reviews yet.

Very well done!!!

Looks like this is all you'll be able to own, with 10rd mags and no more:

T-post in the desert, up in the hills - in the ROCKS... That's real man's work... Ask @Matt.Cross... You get one inch in and STOP... then you "reposition" and try again - and STOP. Eventually, you make the t-post go in... and you beat that rock beneath the surface into submission... That's not HARD work... that's STUBBORN work... It sucks even more, getting those t-posts back OUT - after you pounded them in through a rock... @Matt.Cross has done that rodeo before, too. He's helped set up more desert shoots than any other person that's been to them... Because he's a sucker for punishment, and always comes out in the spring, too...

That is oddly strange, from them. I have Lancers that run great in the AP guns that I have. Most of my .308ARs are AP guns, too. I'll function test these things next time I get out there, Lancer Mags vs. AP guns. For everyone else out there - mags need a "break-in" too, just like these Big ARs need a break-in. Food for thought, in the future...

Shooting in the desert, pounding t-posts... that the only reason I'm still in any kinda shape, brother...

^^^ THAT STUFF IS COOL, BROTHER!!! T-Posts are the way to go, out here in the desert. 6ft t-posts are cheap, and I can get them at Ace Hardware, or any tractor Supply. About $6 each. T-posts can take some abuse, too - they can take some shots, take holes in them, and last awhile before they (literally) get shot in half or break. When they do... I got my $6 out of them. All you need is one of these 16lb t-post pounders from Tractor Supply, ad you're set.

From what I'm seeing, you can't make the brass out of 5.56 brass - though it looks like it, it's a little different. They upsized the base of this cartridge a little, to give it a slight taper, to aid in extraction. So, easy-brass-source is out. I'm still up in the air about it. Looks like it'll shoot about 250 yards, with drop. Those same 160s are carrying 548lb/ft of energy at 300 yards. With Mk262 5.56 ammo, I'm at that energy at 450 yards...

You can add 7/8" to that LOP on that stock, just by putting on the PRS Extended buttpad. It fits. https://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/recoil-parts/recoil-pads/rifle/prs-extended-rubber-butt-pad-sku100010588-54028-105445.aspx?utm_medium=cse&utm_source=connexity&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=Social

Budget guns have recoil systems that are trash, and gas systems that aren't even up to par for a working .308AR. Small gas ports, mostly (they choke down the available gas, to "compensate" for the weakass recoil system). Short gas tubes are the next thing that causes problems. Most common complaints are "It's over-gassed! I NEED an adjustable gas block!!!" read on, it's not even possible for it to be "over-gassed" when the gas port in that barrel is TOO SMALL to begin with... So, with a gas port that's too small, how the hell is it "over-gassed?!" It's NOT over-gassed - it's under-recoiled... THAT is the primary problem with all these "budget guns..." The .308AR needs a buffer that weighs 5.4oz, just to control the WEIGHT of the .308AR BCG (enough ASS for the MASS), and it needs a proper spring that will handle that 5.4oz buffer, BCG weight, AND the recoil energy of the .308 Win cartridge. SECONDARY to that, it needs a proper gas system that will cycle that action weight - and that means a proper gas port diameter, and gas tube length. Anything short of that is just "cheaping out" on a manufacturers part. 3.8oz buffers are WAY less expensive to make, than 5.4oz buffers - because tungsten costs money. 3.8oz buffers don't belong in .308AR guns, ever. If that manufacturer cheaps out once again, and uses AR15 carbine receiver extensions - buffers get MORE expensive for them, if they'd make them to the proper weight from the beginning. Using the 7.000" internal-depth AR15 carbine extension means that .308-makers have to use a 2.500" .308 carbine buffer... the only way to get THAT 2.500" thing to 5.4oz is to use a stainless body, instead of an aluminum body - and the two tungsten weights - and that's more $$$ for manufacturers. They just don't do it. They don't spend money on "budget guns" and those budget guns don't work right - because the manufacturer cheaped out - on YOU. The buyer. Build it right, or buy it right - those are your options. It's not happening, with decent-quality parts that work - for $700. Bring the naysayers...

You build a budget AR15 for $700. You don't build a working .308AR for $700 - and expect it to work. The cheapest WORKING .308ARs I've seen are easier to buy, than build, and that's the budget full-factory DPMS LR-308 guns, and the Armalite DEF-10. Both are a grand. $1k. Base rifle, iron sights. If you "budget" yourself to $700 on a .308AR, you're gonna get a shiit-gun that works on some ammo, some of the time, kicks like a pissed off mule, and has shiit for accuracy. That's my $0.02. The .308AR isn't a poor-man's hobby, you can't build it "cheap" and expect it to work right, all the time, with whatever ammo you find. It just doesn't happen. People try to cheap out often - and then they show up here, ultimately, pissed that their budget gun doesn't work right, and demanding help, most times, immediately. My answer for the $700-gun guys is usually - send it back and make them fix it. So, they send it back, and that "factory" tells them that it functioned fine, and there's nothing wrong with it. Again, after that - WE catch hell, here, for it. I didn't make the gun, machine the gun, design the gun... but I can tell you what that "factory" fucked up with that gun - if you give me the specs on it that I ask for... At that point, right there - you're spending more money on your "budget gun that was xxx dollars..." - just to get it running. This isn't AR15 land here. There are no reliable budget $700 guns in this world - that work right, right out of the box... Not for a .308AR... (Here come all the naysayers, talking shiit about their Davidson Defense gun that runs perfect...). <<< Bring that.

Small-Frame AR Shiit here... I keep looking at this, but it baffles me. Any of you guys looking at the .350 Legend stuff? The round has the glide ratio of a brick, but it could rip some shiit up inside 200 or 250 yards. You'd have to know your drop and dope to pull 250 yards, and the power falls off about there, as far as energy on target (animal). Just wondering if any of you have looked at this one, and what you think. I'm up in the air on this one. Best ballistics I've seen thus far are with a 160gr projectile. I can get a .300BLK with a 150gr projo to do what this one does. I don't know what to think of it...

Fight those fuktards back, brother. No slack.

Hang in there brother - and never give up the fight. Don't ever be the one to end the fight...

^^^ This. He nailed it again.

^^^ That's some REAL CANADIAN SHIIT, right there!!!

I refrained from commenting, at all in this thread, for that very reason. Trust me, it wasn't easy... OP - if you buy a PSA, you'll spend money to get it right. Bare minimum you'll do will be replace the recoil system - complete - and drill up the barrel's gas port to the appropriate diameter. Figure the additional time, work, and money on parts, into the "budget cost" that you thought you got that rifle for...

What a shiit-company... That company is my Soapbox for total-shiit parts. Exactly. Complete JUNK. That's all you'll ever get from that company, along with dishonest "labeling" of product. They'll sell you an "Aero Precision" complete upper - but the only thing that truly Aero Precision is the blem'd upper receiver (stripped). Then, they build it with other junk or blem no-name shiit. Precisely what the Super 42 spring is - AR15 part. Geissele doesn't make a .308AR spring.

He stomped on his own dick, whilst wearing golf cleats...

I'd take Pat up on that offer. If it truly comes down to the barrel being a POS, then I want a crack at that barrel, to try to develop a load that it might like. If I can't come up with ANYTHING that it likes, then it becomes one long tent stake, or a pry bar. And I don't mind that. If you need a barrel that WILL shoot, for positive, and won't break the bank -hit up Ballistic Advantage or Fulton Armory. I'd also recommend Faxon, but they don't have anything that will be comparable (material, profile) to get you into M110 Service comp. Fulton Armory has a direct copy of an M110 barrel. BA has a few great ones that would fit the bill, and make the M110 categorization. Read the FA intro on their .308AR wares: https://www.fulton-armory.com/FAR-308-Titan.aspx Here is their barrels page: https://www.fulton-armory.com/far-308-barrels.aspx Here are their M110 barrels, Criterion first, Kreiger second - you're gonna pay for that Kreiger... Both are great. https://www.fulton-armory.com/barrelfatitan20nmm110ss1x12875gasblockthreaded.aspx https://www.fulton-armory.com/barrelfatitan20nmm110ss1x12875gasblockthreaded-2.aspx From Ballistic Advantage, these will fit the bill: https://www.ballisticadvantage.com/20-inch-308-gov-rifle-ss-premium-barrel.html https://www.ballisticadvantage.com/20-inch-308-fluted-rifle-ss-premium-barrel.html

This is the barrel I have: https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Match-Grade-Barrel-260-Remington-Tactical-Hunter-20-1-8-Twist-Stainless-Fluted/productinfo/TR-260THRG20FT8/

1:8" twist on the Wilson Combat Tactical Hunter barrel, 20" barrel with rifle gas system. Stabilizes the 147s just fine, out to the 1200 yards that I've shot it to. That gun had never seen any factory ammunition in two years, until I started testing NEXUS ammunition. Everything through it, since day one, was handloads, prior to that. I set my COAL to 2.785", and it works great. Mag length is never an issue. If you have a good quality barrel, that load I listed will rip some shiit up, through a 1:8" twist.

Lake City NATO brass made in 2018. That's some good stuff. The circle with the cross in it is the NATO stamp - lots of ammo manufacturers make NATO-spec brass and loadings. All true mil-spec NATO ammunition loadings will have that NATO stamp on the case head, regardless of manufacturer. The LC is Lake City Army Ammunition Plant, and the 18 designates the year it was made. Among all NATO brass, my preference is LC brass.

If I'm making a Hunting-Only load, to 500 yards, this is what I load - Barnes 120gr solid-copper TSX hunting projectile, same brass and CCI 200 primer I mentioned above, Accurate 2495 powder at 37.4 grains. I'll take this all day long, on a hunt. TSX projectiles are devastating on game.

If I could live in that, I wouldn't care if I saw another person publicly, ever. Minus you fuckers, of course. You'd always be welcome, in the Bunker-Of-All-Bunkers... If I lived there, I'd taunt Dem politicians... Just Because... This guy would get a HUGE ration of shiiit for what he says... If THAT PLACE was my home, my response would be simple, and I'd make sure it got back to him on his "campaign promise..." Uh, Hey Beto, here's my address... Looking forward to your arrival and confiscation game...