98Z5V

You squeeze that thing tight enough,and GOLD comes out. I kid you not. Rip it up brother, and see for yourself... Instant Grip-Master Billionaire, if you can muscle it up...

Oh SHIIT!!!...

Anyone that wants in on a .358 Yeti - what we initialy wanted from a Group Buy is online this weekend. We needed the barrel, and dies to reload this thing. That popped up in an email from MDWS - Here's he main Yeti page: https://www.maddogweapons.com/store/c25/.358_Yeti_Products.html Here's the 16" barrel package - barrel and dies, $560: https://www.maddogweapons.com/store/p784/MDWS_.358_Yeti_Barrel_and_DIE_SET_KIT_-_16"%2C_1%3A14_Twist%2C_4140CM_Threaded.html

I'll go back over this whole thread tomorrow, while my turkey is cooking. I'll see if anything stands out....

I don't care about the nay-sayers, either, not a bit.

HELL YES!!! AWESOME, BROTHER!!! What ammo were you using on that one?

Oh HELL YES, it's good enough to hunt deer, elk, anything else out here in North America. It is indeed "lighter recoiling" by design, too, so it would be a great round to get a younger person into.

You can have a custom barrel made, and a 16" Creedmoor would do well. Wilson Combat has four different Match 16" 6.5 Creedmoor barrels available right now, and on sale. https://shopwilsoncombat.com/65-Creedmoor/products/963/ Buy a 16" .308 Win AR, complete, then pick that Wilson Combat barrel up - and build another upper. Best of both worlds, right there.

That completely depends in your intended use. You don't need a long barrel to get some decent distance, especially with the 6.5mm projectiles. I have a 12.5" barreled 6.5 Grendel that will hit the targets at 850 yards, in open ground. If you're hunting 300 yards, it's just your hunting grounds that determine that. Thick brush, open areas - and all in between. I'd go with the 6.5mm projectiles all day long, unless it was heavy brush. If that was the case, I'd shoot some HEAVY .308 loads through that heavy brush. If that heavy brush was the main game and all I did, I'd just make a .338 federal, load up some Hornady 225gr SSTs and be done with it. It's all in what you intend to do with it, and what you expect it to do for you. You have to be realistic about all these builds, and be honest with what you intend it to do, primarily.

Glad I snatched one - wish I'da snatched 2...

That's your take on it - what's your take on him since 2010? You know all that now, magically? You've been here for two years, signed up, and you haven't even been posting for a year. Yet, you know it all, in all it's history. It's rubbish, on your part, and you know it - but try to play your game. If you want to get all "woke" and "profane-anonymous" about it here, then you might not be in the right place. There's alot of people here that speak their mind, and if that offends you, then start calling out the others, and don't try your games on me with it. Otherwise, just fuk yourself. Right in the neck.

I have the .338 Fed and the .260 Rem from them, and they're both lights-out shooters. That .260 is insane. I need to work that .338 Fed load up and see what it'll do beyond 400. I've never taken it further than that before. They're both very impressive, but that .260 is just stupid-accurate...

This is exactly what I go over at the Shoots. Using your parallax adjustment ("Side Focus" on your scope) to determine wind at different ranges, out to the target... Also exactly why I stated earlier that it's important to "zero" your parallax adjustment at the distance that you're zero'ing your rifle, BEFORE you adjust your eye focus... Zero the parallax (say it's 100 yards - set the parallax adjustment to 100), THEN zero your eyeball. Then, you zero your scope,with ammo, on target, at that 100 yards... if you skip that parallax step, you'll never be able to accurately use your scope for reading wind at different ranges UP TO the target... I shiit you not...

Big post - I'll answer it in colors... What I bold for you above in color, I'll answer in the same color... It's almost like "me like crayons..." because that's how I am. Yes, and they're fantastic. The 3-18 development from them released last year at SHOT Show, after a bunch of companies previously "talked about" releasing 3-18 scopes for the long-distance gaming/competition crowd. PA did it. They didn't announce it, talk about it - they listen to what others were talking about, and made it. I don't have one - but I will - and I saw them at SHOT last year, and they're fantastic. It's all about the illumination on those two. The R-GRID is a center illum dot - the Athena BPR Mil is illuminated for the whole grid - you WANT illum on the whole grid, if you're shooting low-light/no-light, with wind. That entire illuminated grid makes a bigass difference when you're shooting wind, low/no-light. I have other PA scopes that just have the illum center section, and running wind at night is tough, with them, because that whole grid isn't illum. Go Athena BPR Mil, in that case. And yes, for those that think I'm crazy about scope illum - you NEED a scope that dials DOWN enough in the illumination, that it's not TOO bright for what you're shooting. It doesn't matter how BRIGHT it gets - it really matters how DIM it can get. If the lowest level washes out with brightness for what you shoot in low/no-light - then it's worthless. I've commented on this before, and proven it to guys that come out here for the shoots... You can pull that LaRue LT-158 mount for $160, all day, direct from LaRue. You select the VFZ mounting option, which eliminates the quick-detach levers. You lock it on with a provided wrench, that comes with the mount. It's $160 for that mount, in the VFZ flavor. All mine are like that, and I don't have the QD levers on my LaRue LT-158s. The 10MOA of cant is invaluable for distance. It just gives you extra down travel in your scope, for distance, because you have to zero higher, due to the cant in it. I wouldn't do a distance-AR without one - because you're just wasting scope elevation travel without it. There is zero elevation built into any of Aer0 Precision's scope mounts- they're flat. 0 MOA scope mounts. I have a few of those also, and can confirm that. They don't offer a scope mount with elevation built into it. I prefer the Aero scope mounts, if I'm making a lightweight-ish gun, that I'll never shoot beyond 600 yards, and that's based on their weight... If "distance" is a game you'll play, then the LaRue mount will outshine just about anything you can get, you'll never ever be able to break it, and if you get into a traffic accident and bust up your car/truck/whatever, AND your LaRue Mount - you'll get another one from Mark LaRue, for nothing. That takes it for me, right there. There is not better quality, there's higher prices and lower weights - but it's the quality. Select the VFZ Mount option, and see that mount price drop to $160.

You don't know half of what you think you know. Survivalshop joined here 10 May 2010. Shortly after I did. He's been here a long time, contributed alot, and he's a great, great guy. He disappeared a couple years ago, for about a year, then came back. I reached out to him while he was gone. For what you THINK you know, you're full of shiit. If he left again, then that's on him. If you think that's all on me - then you are mistaken. But you keep thinking that. For why he stays, and why he goes - that's up to him. For why he argues what he argues - again, that's up to him. You gonna tell me what he thinks now, like Adam Schiff tells people he knows what the President thinks?... That's pretty fucking audacious.

I saw your For Sale thread, brother... I think you have The Sickness... You need to head down south sometime and shoot with me...

Yeah, you missed me, missing him answering that, and that's MY fault, and MY apology to @Crimsonboat for it... I clicked the "update" link, and it took me to the last post made - and I didn't READ UP, where he answered that price and caliber question... Bottom line is this - that Vortex Crossfire is Vortex's entry level scope, and it's not that great. A 3-12 scope with a 56mm objective - that 56mm objective is gonna be a BITCH to mount on an AR, without having some crazy-high rings - which is gonna fuk your checkweld and scope acquisition up. My recommendations were simple - you don't need that entry-level scope, with a huge 56mm objective, to shoot in low-light (or no light), and it offers zero benefits - and the price is too high for it. You'll get into High or Extra High scope mounts to make a 56mm Obj work on an AR, and it fuks everything else with your shooting up. Recommendation #1 - LaRue LT-158 mount. You can have it in 1" or 30mm. It has 10 MOA of cant built into it. It clears 44mm objective lenses, and it clears 50mm objective lenses, on an AR, and I have a few of each to show the clearance. It will not clear a 56mm obj. Very few one-piece mounts out there will. You're stuck with rings, then, and High or Extra High - and they need to fit on the upper receiver. That's just a pain-in-the-ass to go through, figuring it out, trying to make it work, on a 56mm obj lense on an entry-level scope - that's not gonna do that well in the long run, -------- Recommendation #2 - Primary Arms .308 ACSS HUD DMR scope, 44mm obj lense. It's a GREAT reticle for a .308 Win round, you don't dial anything at distance once you practice with it, it has 5mph and 10mph wind holds built into the reticle, it has ranging built into the reticle, it has an illuminated center section, and it ranges to 1000 yards, in the reticle. No dialing - all calibrated holds. It's EXCELLENT in low-light or no-light. It doesn't need another 12mm of objective lense to work well in low-light or no-light. ...for what the OP asked about. Low-light. So, once again - my apologies to @Crimsonboat for my post of "no comment" - when you indeed did comment, and I didn't see/read it. That's MY fault. You can get that Vortex scope if you want - but I just gave you reasons that it's not gonna work that well for what you want, on this platform.

Wha'Chu loading in those .224 Valks, brother?

Wilson Combat carries that caliber, and it's in stock - no wait for a custom barrel. Depends on what length/use you're looking for, though. Here's what they have: https://shopwilsoncombat.com/7mm-08-Remington/products/979/

I think it needs it. Some Desert Tiger Stripe would do it proper - Cerakote FDE and Patriot Brown. @392heminut has some pics of one I did for him, that'll turn up. It's a pretty sweet combo... Up in the air on it, since it's a .308 Win round - I already know it's max terminal potential. I've been lucky with PA 4-14 .308 ACSS HUD DMR scope several times on different guns, and it works GREAT. That would be very good on this one, and work with it very well. Then, I'm wondering about upping the magnification, or just going to a straight illuminated mil scope. Athlon Optics has a great 6-24 illum mil scope that I put on the .260 Rem - then another 4-14 illum mil scope from them, too. Decisions. I've got a decent Christmas bonus coming up from work, so it waits until then - unless I steal a scope from something else just to shoot this thing... That .260 Rem with the 6-24 is already in a LaRue LT-158 mount... it might get "borrowed..."

My rant definitely wasn't directed at you @josiahg52 - that was my vent on the one-time wonders and the free-shiit people, and then those that only bitch (about anything) in order to get a cheaper price on (whatever it was)... That wasn't directed against you in any way, man.

Been wanting to build up a Mk11 Mod 0 for a long, long time, but I was after a specific rail that I wanted to use. The Daniel Defense AR10 Lite Rail 12.0. I finally got lucky enough to get one, and much thanks to @swroberts22 for the opportunity at this rail. Picked up the Aero M5 upper and lower from GunPusher John, and set about getting this thing together. I searched for a long time online, trying to find a Mk11 with a collapsible stock on it, but couldn't find anything like that. I made the decision to raid a pretty sweet A1 stock from a rifle - The bulk of the parts were "re-purposed" from the very first LR-308 that I ever built, in 2010. I had a Rainer Arms Select barrel ready to go for it, that's been in the gun locker for about 4 years. 18" midlength gas 1:11.25" twist. After talking with @Matt.Cross, he made me realize that if I was taking the stock from my first build, then I might as well take that sweet 1:10" twist Fulton Armory Krieger Criterion 18.5" rifle gas match barrel from it, too. He was correct. So, I swiped the A1 stock and rifle recoil system, with the Sierra Precision SPR-1 adjustable buttplate from that gun, I took the barrel, the Tac-Ops 1 charging handle, and the BAD-ASS ambi safety. I also swiped the KAC rail panels from it. For right now, I even took the DPMS cromed BCG, but that'll get replaced with a ToolCraft nitrided BCG, down the road. I hadn't had that original .308 out for years, and just wanted something different - and I got it. This one will get out WAY more often. I still need to figure out the optics, but whatever the scope is, it will be in a LaRue LT-158 mount. Here's where it's at right now:

Yeah, I have a lot of experience shooting in low light, with that very scope, and it's way better than that Vortex Crossfire that you're looking at. That's exactly why I suggested it in the first place.

There's a barrel lapping tool for the M5E1. Ive only seen it from one company, though.

Big issue - running that dirt over your die. Tumble, clean, first. You START the reloading process with clean brass. Did I not state that before, Ray?...