98Z5V

That receiver extension length (internal depth) had to change at some point brother. I'm betting they had something WAY shorter on those guns before, and changed because something wasn't working right. Probably the only reason you could GET them working right before was because of a Slash buffer - and they changed something in that extension... Hey now, mine measures grams, or ounces. I choose to present the ounces, because of you bastards... @Armed Eye Doc, don't shoot your RRA again until the Fall Shoot. Bring that thing with you, and I'll have a buffer for you, too. I wanna look at that gun...

Albro, I'm betting money that if you yank that gas tube out of your Anderson right now, it's gonna be an AR15 Midlength gastube, at 11 3/4" long. You can just do the easy thing, and make sure you're getting all the gas that you're supposed to have, and pick up that LBE Unlimited tube you showed, at 12 1/16" long (12.0625" - 12 1/16", they just didn't include the extra digits - or really it's an extra 25/10-thou short, so they're not copying Armalite?...). Either way is gonna fix your problem, and not short you on gas timing. It's not gonna increase your gas timing in some crazy manner, either, when it comes up "just a tick" past the center of the cam pin cutout. - That's better than being short... That's the easy, cheaper way... If you really do want it perfect, and centered up - on that Anderson barrel - you will need to make your detailed measurements (just like you said, end of tube to center of cam pin cutout), before you break it all down, then measure the OAL of that tube, and add that much. Add that shortage to the center of the cam pin cutout to the tube OAL. I'll tell you right now - from the center of a gas PORT in a gas tube, to the very end of the gas tube, is 0.600". You can measure from center of cam pin cutout, all the way to the gas port location in your barrel, and ADD 0.600", and that'll be your perfect gas tube length, that you'll need White Oak to make for you. I'll still bet that your gas port in the barrel is too small. You need to measure that. Indexed, numbered drill bits are the best way, unless you have a snap-gauge that measures under 0.100".

I have an Armalite AR15 National Match gas tube right here - it's identical in length to an AR15 Rifle gas tube, it just has different bends...

I've given Armalite AR-10 Carbine tube length vs. AR15 midlength, right here in this thread. It's also in those links I just posted, above, man... It's all over the web...

Game on.

@sketch You sure this thing is an RRA, right? I'm gonna build you a 5.4oz buffer that will crush it in that receiver extension.

With an 8" internal depth receiver extension, you could run (damn close) a regular AR15 H3 carbine buffer in that thing, brother! 5.4oz! @sketch will you measure the internal depth of that receiver extension again, brother? I have an idea...

No, they're not the same. There is only ONE Carbine gas system in the Large Frame platforms, and it the Armalite AR-10 Carbine gas system, which is nothing like an AR15 carbine gas system. The Armalite AR-10 Carbine gas system is even longer than the AR15 midlength gas system.. So, on that, they're not the same. Due to them being "not the same," every manufacturer that decides to jump on this bandwagon, without doing their research, fails to understand that - or ignores it. Like Anderson and PSA. And, we're in this boat, right here. You're gonna have to dig into some Google-Fu to aid this journey you're on, but this is a good start: https://www.shootingillustrated.com/articles/2014/9/24/ar-gas-system-lengths-explained/ http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2012/06/foghorn/ask-foghorn-gas-system-length-ar-15/ https://www.at3tactical.com/blogs/news/9298047-carbine-mid-or-rifle-a-beginner-s-guide-to-ar15-gas-systems

About 2" when you're talking about AR15 stuff. Not on the large frames, though.

Hey, look, man - if you don't want the help...

White Oak Armament will make any sized gas tube you want. Call them with details, and expect questions on how you came up with your number. There are two gas tubes that are close, and not exact, and that's where we run into these problems. I posted those specs above, but the Armalite AR-10 Carbine gas tube is 12 1/16" long. The AR15 midlength gas tube is 11 3/4" long. Armalite AR-10 Rifle gas tubes are also longer than AR15 Rifle gas tubes - but we don't see that problem crop up too often. All the manufacturers that jumped out of the woodwork, and didn't do their research, didn't drill the gas port right - or they thought they'd be smart, and drill it somewhere in between. That's when you see the issues. If your barrel was designed and drilled perfect, you would see that gas tube ends at exactly the middle of the cam pin cutout in the upper receiver - no matter which system you were using. If it's not exactly in the center of the cam pin cutout, it's a hybrid. If it's short, and doesn't reach the center of the cam pin cutout, you are cheating yourself of gas timing. Now, combine that with a gas port that's too small, a recoil system that isn't up to par, and you have a large-frame AR that doesn't run worth a damn. This is a Rainier Arms Select .308 barrel, 18", "midlength gas." With the AR15 midlength gas tube, mounted in the AP M5 upper. Rainer planned it out. They knew what was up. Not all companies plan it out, or even know there's a difference. If they knew about the difference, they didn't stick with one design or the other, and went "in the middle." ...They didn't care...

This thread is AWESOME! I search 1/2" diameter tungsten bar, and the prices were good - but cutting it would SUCK. Just in from Roman - the Slash RRA 308 Carbine heavy buffer. Here's some more buffer tech for us. Thanks, @sketch!!! (Slash, if you want this info pulled, just let me know...) So, the RRA LAR-8,and all their .308ARs are even different yet. The upper and lower receivers are longer, the BCG (complete) is another 1/4" longer - and the buffers have to be another 1/4" shorter than what we're used to. This is a 5.7oz SHORT carbine buffer, at 2.25" total length. The buffer body is a little shorter, but not the full 1/4", but the buffer bumper itself is a little shorter, too. The length reduction is via both the body and bumper. It's a stainless steel body, and the diameter is not reduced at all... Most buffers are; they have a reduced body, and it only flares up where it captures/fits into the spring. There are two tungsten weights, and there are no pads in between the weighs - there's not enough room. Checked that, and tried to put pads in it. Nope, not happening. With the SS body, it probably won't need them anyway. Standard tungsten weights, at 1.4oz each. All buffer components, at 5.7oz weight: Buffer body itself - this is impressive Compared to a 2.5" shorty buffer - Aero on the left, RRA buffer on the right. I wasn't putting that bumper all the way back in there, because I have a plan... Here's the RRA buffer (2.250" OAL) with a standard bumper in the end of it: What is 2.431" + 0.069" ?... That's 2.500" right there, and I can run this in a DPMS-based recoil system. Oh, what's 0.069" thick?... A quarter...

If that's a12 1/16" gas tube that you've already got in there, in your pic above, then they (Anderson) really got that barrel drilling off. That means an AR15 midlength tube wouldn't even get to the cam pin cutout in the upper. You'll certainly need to do some measuring.

President's Day in Feb is the biggest FA sale of the year. The Pres Day sale is 15%.

Just because it wasn't right... all those parts... I have a spare Rainier Arms Select .308 barrel, 18" midlength gas. I decided to toss it in this setup, as it sits. I'm a BCG away from being able to shoot a .308 Winchester round through this thing... I won't do it, but it makes me feel a little better...

We need to look at the ballistics on it, for distance. We need something hitting that basketball at an impact speed of 2,000fps. That screwed Matt and I two Fall Shoots ago, when we were trying to nail that bucket at 660 yards. We hit the hell out of it, and scattered tannerite all over the place. By the time the projectiles were getting there and hitting it, they weren't going fast enough to detonate it. Distance will be critical. I've been keeping that in mind, ever since it happened to us. The 16" Grendel and the 25/45 will do it at 250 yards. The 18" Grendels and the 5.56 Mk12s (with Mk262 clone ammo) will do it at 350 yards. The 300 Win Mag, .338 Lapua Mag, and .260 Remington will do it at 550 yards.

All out, but I'll get more before then, brother. A basketball will hold ALOT of tannerite, man!!!

The length makes sense. 12.06" would be 12 1/16". It's worth risking it, if that length dimension is correct. Personally, though, there's no way in the world I would give CTD any money... It's cheaper straight from the manufacturer, man: https://www.lbeunlimited.com/product/argt308/ Screw Cheaper Than Dirtbags...

When I clicked on this one, I though it might have been @shepp! http://www.foxnews.com/great-outdoors/2018/08/06/minnesota-anglers-charged-for-catching-253-fish-over-legal-limit-were-biting-good.html

@392heminut It was crazy up here, brother - one hell of a monsoon storm, crazy winds, raining sideways,... None of my trees were damaged, but it was pretty nuts driving around the next day and looking at all the split trees and uprooted trees, blown over. It tore up alot of shiit...

Positively yes, without a doubt. The upper even has the "Aero A" forge mark in it.

I wanted to hit a couple points that I never mentioned before. This has been a wild process, so see what's going on with this gun. Loaded mags, and loading mags - Any new mag is gonna be stiff as hell, and its gonna exert some serious pressure on that 20th, top round, to seat the thing on a closed bolt. With new mags, I usually only go 1/2 way on them until I cycle them a few times. Sometimes it takes some serious pressure to seat a 20-rd mag with 20 rounds, on a closed bolt. So, thoughout last weekend and this weekend, shooting these operational parts - remember, they were remounted into AP M5 receivers, for firing... Last weekend I loaded up 3 x 20rd Pmags, and you have to push to load them on a closed bolt, but they "click in." This past weekend, I had 15 rounds on a 20rd Pmag, and you still have to push to click it in there. The mags I used for single-round lockback testing had only one round loaded, and those things clicked right in there with no effort. Test that, Steve, when you get this bad boy back on Thursday. It shipped today, UPS says you'll get it Thursday. Run some limited rounds in those mags, and see if it's any easier to seat the mags. These were all great points, and I checked all this stuff, right down the list here - but never reported on it. Whatever caused the BCG to hit the cam [i cutout area front and rear - it has fixed itself now. There is no doubt in my mind that the cam pin cutout area had edges that shouldn't have been there - they're gone now. The BCG slides smoothly in the PSA upper receiver, with the bolt removed from the BCG body, and no charging handle in there. I checked this on the stripped upper, and there wasn't even a gas tube in there. It slides well, and doesn't hang up anywhere. So, it "clearanced" itself, during initial weapons function. The FSB was taper-pinned on there, and it was straight. That was correct. I didn't noticed any weird gas problems or leakage in that area. The AR15 gas tube had to "bend" alittle to function here, and that cause alot of carbon buildup at the end of the tube that goes into the FSB, but it looked like there was enough carbon buildup to form a seal for the gas system. The BCG did have those marks on it's top, on those bearing surfaces. More on the cam pin cutout side of the BCG, but that was to be expected, after looking at the upper receiver. The bolt lugs (and the barrel extension) both looked great. I liked the BCG - very nice BCG, nitrided, and smooth. They make a good 308AR BCG setup... If there's anything else that was questioned, and didn't get answered, just quote it and let me know - I'll go back and provide that info.

Here's what the chopped down and smoothed FSB looks like now... She's all back together now, ready to go back in the box.

That is a beautiful machine, right there!

This board is not California, brother. You should know that. Even if I MSRP-out all that stuff, it's not $1k. If you want get all your money back - in Cali - on a gun that you bought - in Cali - I suggest you try to sell it to other Californians that have the restrictions that you do. The rest of the free world - all of us outside of Cali, and other ban states - will never give you what you're looking for. Even at MSRP on all those parts, it's no $1k gun, brother. Maybe in Cali, or another ban state, but nowhere else. The gun is $689 MSRP from S&W. The trigger and spring kit is $169, from the manufacturer (Apex). I found magwells that look like that for $58. That's $916, no shipping, no tax, just parts. At online retailers, the gun comes in $100 cheaper. Now it's an $816 gun, with full MSRP on the other two things... I'm not trying to jump your shiit about it - I'm trying to save you headaches. Put that thing up for consignment in a local gunshop; get an unknowing Californian to buy it for that. Shot, unshot, brand new in box - that won't fly here, Eddie.