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We can do that, man. I'll call you and get the directions to you.

Welcome aboard - this place is FULL of the very information you are asking about. The best thing you can do is start a tech or build thread in the appropriate section, and ask questions. The information will flow, links will be posted, etc. There's a TON of great parts you can use on DPMS-based .308ARs.

Silly people... The Morning Wood Shoot just happens every morning at camp. I wake up, grab whatever firearm is nearest, as well as pick a tricky target that's out there, and just fire one round. I usually hit the target. It's probably pure luck... but you don't let anyone know that. You act like you MEANT that shiit... This act just makes Matt Cross crazy... Matt then picks up one of his similar firearms, and commences to getting after that same target, in the same manner. I just pull the trigger, drop the mic, and walk away... Everything else is up to Matty... That is The Morning Wood Shoot... So far, the two that I've pulled off are the 65-yard pistol shot on steel, one hand, off hand. BANG! TING! ...walk away... The other one was the 700 AAC SD rifle, 435-yard target, standing off hand, slinged up... BANG!......ting!~... ...walk away... That last one earned the comment from Matty - "Oh HELL NO! That is NOT going unanswered!..."

I couldn't pass that one up... I tried, I really did, and I just couldn't help myself...

Just read through ANOTHER email to give Universal Mania some feedback -again. I copied it before submission, because I know the submission will go nowhere. Again. Here's my feedback that I left. Horrid transaction. Terrible. Ordered a knife, and received reloading brass. Contacted them immediately about the "mix up," and was reassured that it would be taken care of. After almost 3 months of back and forth with them, they finally refunded my transaction. They got their product back, but after another month of hounding them, they only way I got my credit back on my card was by leaving negative feedback everywhere I could. Suddenly , ZERO reviews I made were processed, but my card was refunded. In a nutshell, they low-balled a product they didn't have, shipped something I didn't order, and made a bet that I wouldn't follow it through. They'll screw most people, that won't follow it through. Never again, with this company.

70 pages of M-LOK Butthurt, right here... http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?193899-BCM-KMR-M-LOK-late-2017

Fuk does this have to do with a contest on this board, brother?!...

That's what I do when I sucker guys into shooting against me... Thus far, for the last two meets, The Morning Wood Shoot delivers... Y'all will hear more about this soon... I promise...

I call it "customer time" and I deal with it all the time. "I JUST had my bike IN HERE to have tires put on, and the damn thing VIBRATES and SHAKES me all over the road..." Can I have your name, so I can check the service records, please? "Yeah, I'm Charlie McFuckle, I was JUST IN HERE LAST WEEK..." Okay, Mr McFuckle, I found your service records, from your last visit here. It looks like we mounted and balanced your new Dunlop tires on your bike, and the mileage when you came in was 24,395 miles at the time of install... 36 months ago. THREE FUCKING YEARS AGO. What's the mileage on your bike NOW, Sir? - let's check... CUSTOMER TIME... is always fucked up. Doesn't even relate to modern reality, in any way...

That's the key, right there. I never filed shiit for my 512. I baked that poor bastard twice at 170 in the oven, just to Cerakote it. Twice. It still works like a champ.

I've heard that about you - you blow everything out...

Just talked to him on the phone - he's local. We'll get this shiit sorted out. He's working during the Fall Shoot, but we'll figure it out. If any of you lazy sum'bitches show up early, he can shoot on Thursday. That would be PRIME TIME. You slackers won't do that, though...

PM inbound. Right now.

Where do you live, man? You in Phoenix, AZ?...

Bolt guns do not generally require a crimp on the loadings, of the case to projectile. Crimp your semi-auto rounds. Crimp them. Semi's will tear some shiit up, from the recoil, and you will eventually get some rounds (IN the magazine) that have bullet-setback. That spikes pressures more than you can imagine. Taper crimp, Lee-something-crimp, whatever. Crimp your semi-auto loadings. Somewhere here, I've got pics of rounds in a 100-rd Beta mag for a 5.56 AR, that were NOT crimped. When it stopped cycling, we really looked at it - and the projectiles were shoved back into the cases, pretty damn far. I'll shoot just about any "damaged" bullet that someone freaks out about... dented cases, whatever... I wasn't going to shoot those things. CRIMP. TAPER-CRIMP. WHATEVER. It's a semi - you don't have a choice but to do it, or it's gonna get you.

I have one perfect example of this, in my own arsenal, happening to me - on a very expensive billet receiver set, from a very well known manufacturer. They machined the shiit wrong. Buffer retainer hole in the lower was machined too far forward. I caught it early enough, with my chewed-a$s buffer face, installed a Tubb CWS, and the problem never got a chance to do anymore damage. Problem solved; problem stayin' solved. I'll provide pics if necessary, but I won't name the manufacturer publicly.

If the buffer hits the detent when the bolt is closed, you have out-of-spec receivers. Most commonly, the buffer retainer hole was machined too far forward. When this happens, the buffer retainer will chew the shiit out of your buffer face. David Tubb knew this, and created the carrier weight system (Tubb CWS) in a manner to solve this issue, as well as add weight to the carrier. It's a true "Dual-Role" system. The Tubb CWS not only adds weight to the carrier, to affect bolt unlocking speed, it adds 0.080" to the back of the carrier length - thus fixing out-of-spec receivers that beat up buffer faces. Unfortunately, Tubb no longer makes the CWS (so I've heard), and you can't buy it anymore. If this is in fact true, I'm going to start making my own inserts for BCGs, that will stop the buffer/buffer retainer contact, when the receivers are closed. Here's some examples of a buffer retainer hole that's machined too far forward - and your buffer slams the retainer. This is not right, and is a machining problem. When the receivers are closed (then pinned), the back of the BCG pushes the buffer OFF the retainer. And the buffer never makes contact with the retainer, ever, during the cycling of the weapons platform - until you open the receivers again.

Finally, one LAST question... When you received this ELF trigger, did you fuk with it? I always need to know - because right out of the box, it will run. Right out of the box, it should run just right, for most rifles/builds/ammo. Some are finicky, some builds, some ammo - but most of the problems I've seen with this trigger were induced by trigger-tuning before ever shooting it or installing it. If you did, that's not a bad thing. There's just a few key things on this trigger to pay attention to, when you tweak it.

One other thing - this trigger has a "half-cocked" position. I'll make a video of it, if need be, so it's easy to see. If you're recoil system is jacked, you're not returning the bolt/BCG to battery when it needs to be, the trigger can get stuck in the half cocked position. Thus, the next round, you're firing from the half cocked position, and you won't have the full power of the hammer spring. That "half cocked" position is really like "only 1/3rd cocked," when you really look at it close. On the same ammo, are you having problems with successive rounds? Like, first one and two fire, then I get a weird click, and a light strike... Or, is this truly a different-ammo thing? Your answer will tell me about your trigger pull, with this trigger - and whatever it is, that's not a bad thing. Just lemme know. Please list all your recoil-system parts, as well. Receiver extension (include internal depth of the receiver extension, milspec or commercial - internal depth is either gonna be 7" or 7 5/8"), what brand of recoil spring (relaxed length, coil count, wire diameter if possible), and buffer type-length, overall, front to back - how long is that buffer? If it's got a weight rating, it'll be stamped on the face. If nothing is stamped on the face of the buffer, we can figure that out quick.

Okay, first, I want to address the 3 things I numbered above. (1) You're never late to the party here, 'cause this shiit never stops... (1.5) Is the rifle really an Armalite AR-10? In 6.5C? Or did you build this rifle/buy this rifle, and it's not a true Armalite pattern? We need to know this, because we need to know what the actual, specific components are. If this was built, did you build it? Let us know exactly what parts you used, DPMS pattern or Armalite pattern, who made the receivers, - and most importantly, what brand is that BCG?... If someone else built it, and you bought it - we need you to find out exactly what components were used in the build - that BCG, really... Receivers, too. Barrel manufacturer as well. Those specific parts are the big players in this one. (2) That's a reloading issue. If you have light primer strikes on one load, and not on another, something isn't different with the trigger, but something IS different with the ammo. What primers were used? Seated to what depth?, etc... If the trigger runs on something, then it should be setup to run on just about anything but old-a$s hard military/NATO primers. Those things are a different story. (3) What Art is telling you doesn't make any sense to me. None at all. If your ammo is properly loaded, projectile weight doesn't mean shiit. Powder charge doesn't mean shiit - none of that matters, when you're looking at how hard the hammer face strikes the firing pin strikes the primer. Firing pin-to-primer matters, and that's the function of the hemmer (weight) and the hammer spring (tension). Primers matter, if they're hard-as-hell mil-surp primers, and you're not setup for them. All that other stuff doesn't matter. If the ammo is loaded right. What SS said... headspace. Get it checked first; find someone you know with 6.5C headspace gauges, or pay a gunsmitter to do it (had to use the term...). Rule out headspace FIRST in this issue, then we look at that trigger. FWIW, if you feel comfortable enough with it, you can ship that trigger to me, I'll tune it up and ship it right back. If we time the shipping back and forth, this can be done in a week, total. Get it to me by mid-week, I'll fire it up and put it into one of my guns, shoot that thing on the weekend, makes whatever tweaks are necessary, and get it back in the mail to you on a Monday morning.

Skip the adjustable gas block - until you find that you need it. Skip the higher priced triggers, and pay the full retail 0f $125 for the LaRue MBT2 trigger. Crazy expensive triggers can/will come later, on future builds, and you won't regret getting that LaRue trigger. Skip the JP SCS setup, and go simple. UBR2 stock, Armalite AR-10 Carbine buffer (exact same thing as AR-15 Carbine H3 buffer), and Armalite EA1095 buffer spring. Start simple, with parts that work - get complicated later. One of my many mottos - Don't complicate shiit with complicated shiit.

So, wait a minute. The FBI can FIND THIS on a HOMELESS MAN'S HARD DRIVE... But they can't find SHIIT on HILLARY'S HARD DRIVE?!!?

Reloder 15 is one of them. Great stuff. Find Varget, if you can. Best .308 Win powder I've ever used. Once it became scarce, I started switching, and landed on RL15.

You know what, Rob? You're gonna be the first guy to pull the trigger on it, on a live round. Then, we tune that brake.