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My DPMS AR-308K build (Long)


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WOHOO!!!

 

I installed my Geissele Automatics Hi-Speed National Match DMR Trigger last night and finished adjusting it today.  I am getting an average total of 44oz = 2.75lbs. trigger pull weight.  1st stage is pulling at 2lbs 1.4oz and the 2nd stage 2lbs. 9ozs.  Very crisp like a breaking candy cane / icicle.

 

Only thing I am not sure about is on the first stage, I am noticing not as smooth as a pull I thought it would be.  I also have a S3G trigger on my AR15 3G build and it just feels smooth.  I am getting a Super Tricon for my AR pistol this week, since it is a 2 stage trigger, I will compare the 1st stages and see if they behave the same way.  I am basically feeling with a slow squeeze a slight jerkiness.  That could just be me as I am expecting an Anschutz like trigger response, smooth.  If I need to just get used to the the nature of AR triggers, then so be it.  My concern is if I have installed it correctly or not.

 

Cheers!

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Should be buttery smooth through the first stage, all the way to the second stage stop.

 

The Super Tricon will feel just like the SSA and G2S.  Same trigger, different curve to the trigger shoe.

Edited by 98Z5V
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My Hi-Speed DMR first stage is smoother than my S3G.  Yours should be also.

 

 

I installed my Geissele Automatics Hi-Speed National Match DMR Trigger last night and finished adjusting it today. 

 

You've mixed up a couple triggers here.  Geissele makes 3 Hi-Speed models.

 

1.  Hi-Speed National Match.

2.  Hi-Speed DMR.

3.  Hi-Speed Service.

 

Which one did you buy?  Doesn't matter which Hi-Speed you are running, your first stage should be a little smoother than your S3G trigger. 

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So I have the HS NM DMR in my AR 308.  When you say smooth, does it feel soft?  I am defining smooth as soft, but when I squeeze this trigger, it does not feel as I would have expected it to feel.

 

Thanks for your help.  At this point I am on the fence on how the $280 was spent, since I was expecting something better than a Timney or CMC trigger.  Although, this is a 2 stage trigger and the break is very nice and to my liking.

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Ah!  I see I've been tripped up by nomenclature change!  Everything is a "Hi-Speed National Match" now.  With -DMR, -Match, and -Service added on the end.  My fault, man.

 

By "smooth," I'm meaning "not gritty, not jerky, easy transition..."  As far as "soft," that's in how you set the pull weight.  You shouldn't have a gritty or jerky first stage, and it should feel better than the "smooth" pull of your S3G.  Which shouldn't be gritty or jerky, either.  The S3G is a single stange 3.5# pull.  The first stage on your DMR, at less weight, should definitely be different, and much more smooth.

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I have adjusted it, and I do like the break on the 2nd stage to my liking.  Just the front stage doesn't seem right to me...  Like I said, I get the super tricon tomorrow... it is a 2 stage trigger that is not adjustable.  If the 1st stage feels the same, then I think that will confirm that is how the first stage is suppose to be.

 

I hope I don't have to send it back.

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Matt,

 

You know, you're right.  I can feel where the 1st stage stops and safely stop the pull prior to dropping the trigger on the second stage.  It is pretty light, so I will have to tell others how light it is... I guess a try fire should be in order prior to them shooting off a round.  So to clarify the first stage just feels... I hate to say it, "cheap" in terms of like I would expect more of a linear pull on the first stage.  I just need to take it out the range and shoot it.  Who knows I may add more weight to the 2nd stage.  Currently my trigger is setup with 44oz on the first stage and then about 9oz on the second, 53oz total or 3.3125 lbs.  Hopefully it will be just right for bench shooting.

Edited by kd5zmg
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Matt,

 

You know, you're right.  I can feel where the 1st stage stops and safely stop the pull prior to dropping the trigger on the second stage.  It is pretty light, so I will have to tell others how light it is... I guess a try fire should be in order prior to them shooting off a round.  So to clarify the first stage just feels... I hate to say it, "cheap" in terms of like I would expect more of a linear pull on the first stage.  I just need to take it out the range and shoot it.  Who knows I may add more weight to the 2nd stage.  Currently my trigger is setup with 44oz on the first stage and then about 9oz on the second, 53oz total or 3.3125 lbs.  Hopefully it will be just right for bench shooting.

 

 Just as Matt wrote , the first stage is just to set up the second stage & I guess you can say it feels like smooth creep .

 

  9 oz. is kind of light for a trigger pull on an AR .

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Well,

 

installed the super tricon from Geissele and it is now the heaviest AR trigger I have installed.  Breaking in at about 4lbs 10.3oz.  1st stage is about 2lbs. 13oz.  It's a clean crisp break with no noticeable creep.  The original trigger with JP springs, socket screw mod and polished trigger parts broke at 5lbs 4oz, but clean crisp break with very minimum creep, almost unnoticeable.

 

Am I happy... ??? I truly am happy with the Geissele triggers.  My last trigger purchase will be most likely the SDE, but I am considering the HSNM Match trigger...

 

I'll wait until next week to decide.

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  • 2 months later...

UPDATE: 

 

Hello all,

 

It's been a while.  I have been busy with classes and work, but I did manage to get the LR308K out the range and add some upgrades to it.  I have installed the Diamondhead 15Inch handguard, changed the pistol grip to a more comfortable one (Ergo Deluxe), JP SCS, Lantac Dragon and the last 2 most important upgrades is a Syrac AG and a Geissele SD-E, which appears to be the better trigger for this rifle and caliber.  Also, this setup is not like the original build I threw together, it feels nicer, but it is still pretty darn hefty in weight.

 

216679c32ea5eefc74045e498022e446.jpg

 

I moved the NM DMR trigger to my .223 24Inch shooter... Here is what my .223 precision looks like:

 

3574851424dca392c7db250c52ff863b.jpg

 

I'm working up some 308 PPU and Hornady Match loads, but still looking for a recipe.  The PPU 168GR Match is not too bad, but I still also need to chrono what the rifle is doing at this point.

 

Any suggestions as to what recipe to try out and what my chrono readings should be are welcome.

Edited by kd5zmg
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Thanks unforgiven.

 

Well, my daughter likes shooting the .223 and is interested in 3G, so I ended up building her one of her own.  6lbs 6oz with red dot, Geissele S3G. 

 

a3b4fb7267d932ec2d3548c7eb69bc7e_400_550

 

The top one is hers, she wanted all black, so I got stuck with the multi-colored one.  I am using a Trijicon Reflex for my optic.  Both fashion the .223 Wylde 16" barrel.

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  • 3 months later...

WELL...

 

So far I have tried some reloads for this rifle.  I don't know if I had mentioned what barrel I have, it is a Red X Arms 1:10 HBAR Profile 308 Match.  The problem I am having is:

 

  1. 7.62x51 does not load
  2. Reloaded .308 ammo is not consistent
  3. It is heavy... (HBAR) oh well

My question is, should I send it to my LGS and have them ream out the chamber?  While I am there, I was thinking about having them remove the threads and do an 11 degree crown instead.  Since this is a heavy rifle, I would just use it in the prone or bench.  I am looking at building a lighter upper for offhand shooting anyway.  I just want to salvage this one as it is not performing the way I had expected it to.

 

Please suggest what I can do with this Red X Arms barrel.

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  Sounds like it could be a tight Chamber if it will not chamber a 7.62 . It probably already has a crown on the end of the barrel , its just threaded . Now what angle or what shape it is in , that's another matter .

  

  Whats the round count on this barrel ? It may make a difference in how well the Barrel is seasoned for consistent shooting .

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  Sounds like it could be a tight Chamber if it will not chamber a 7.62 . It probably already has a crown on the end of the barrel , its just threaded . Now what angle or what shape it is in , that's another matter .

  

  Whats the round count on this barrel ? It may make a difference in how well the Barrel is seasoned for consistent shooting .

 

I have 300 rounds through this rifle 200 rounds of PPU 168GR Match and Winchester 308 40 round green box pack, the remaining 60 rounds were combinations of Hornady, Sako, and Nosler Match.  The ones I am having problems with are Hornady Cased reloads of 168GR and PPU Cased Reloads 168GR.  The Hornady I had 4 that did not fire.  I made it through 1 round of the PPU and had a FTE and one round got jammed, but was able to safely remove both case and unfired round.

 

Here is my BCG:

 

20150803_153734.jpg

 

20150803_153751.jpg

 

Anyone using this type of BCG?  The seller called it Carbonite coating, and it feels very slick to the touch.  I think my chamber is ok, but I wouldn't know since I am not really trained to know if anything is wrong with it:

 

20150803_160853.jpg

 

This Saturday I am going to the local Cowboy Silhouette match to shoot my 30-30.  The local Gunsmith said he would take a look at it and give me a diag of what he thinks... I wanted to get your opinions or ideas of what to ask him.

 

thanks,

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  Has the rifle had the Head Space checked ?

 

  The BCG looks like a DWilson Nitrated BCG.

 

  You running the BCG wet ? , try keeping it out of the Chamber , I usually run a dry patch after a couple of rounds , when breaking in a rifle , when running it real wet till broken in & going back to normal Lubrication .

 

  Double check your reloading procedures , Make sure the COL is not too much more than 2.800" & make sure the Brass are sized correctly .

Edited by survivalshop
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  Has the rifle had the Head Space checked ?

 

  The BCG looks like a DWilson Nitrated BCG.

 

  You running the BCG wet ? , try keeping it out of the Chamber , I usually run a dry patch after a couple of rounds , when breaking in a rifle , when running it real wet till broken in & going back to normal Lubrication .

 

  Double check your reloading procedures , Make sure the COL is not too much more than 2.800" & make sure the Brass are sized correctly .

 

I am trimming the cases based on the Wilson Gauge.  So when you break in the barrel, how many rounds are you running while you patch?

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