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.308 Upper Assemblies


thenewguy308

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You make a good point with it being semi auto. I've shot a lot of guns in a lot of different calibers, but never a semi auto 308. I have a Springfield featherweight 308 Bolt action and it kicks like nobodies business.

With a heavier rifle and a semi auto action, I'm now thinking it might not be so bad. I went with a cheap rubber snap on recoil pad for my tactical stock just in case, plus it adds a nice little curve to the end. I'll wait and see how the kick is before investing in a brake.

I wish the mail came faster so I could post my first range report already!

I put the thicker magpul rubber pad on mine and a MWI muzzle device on my .308 and it calmed it down enough for me....

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You candyasses need to shoot my 45-70.  After you think you've got that thing solved, you need to get behind beachmaster's father's 500 S&W Magnum.  That schit will give you a recoil-taming like you've never seen...  You'll think .308 Win is like shooting .22LR...  <lmao>

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You candyasses need to shoot my 45-70. After you think you've got that thing solved, you need to get behind beachmaster's father's 500 S&W Magnum. That schit will give you a recoil-taming like you've never seen... You'll think .308 Win is like shooting .22LR... <lmao>

I'll give that 45-70 a go

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  • 4 months later...

Reviving a old thread but the OP originally asked about uppers for his PSA lower.  Other than PSA uppers the only other should fit is the Aero product.  The PSA is made in the DPMS model but, the centerline of the barrel/buffer is .043 lower than a DPMS or an Armalite for that matter.  The standard dimension for both the AR10 and the DPMS is .762 from the datum/deck surface to the centerline of the barrel.  The PSA is an actual measured .719 on one I have here.  This throws everything off that counts on having the full mil-spec vertical distance in there like some of the triggers.  I didn't actually check out the measurements but I'd think the bolt lock and perhaps even the mag latch heights may be different as well.  I'll do some more measuring when I can.

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what barrel length did you end up getting?  Ive dabbled in the 18-20" stuff but go 16" on most everything now including my 308 build.  FPS loss is pretty negligible going from an 18-16 and the 16"s have no problem at 500-800 yards.  The added weight/length just starts getting old (not usually the case i know)

 

As far as a muzzle brake goes, Im VERY impressed with VG Precision.  Im running their "Gamma" on my Aero build.  I liked it so much, i read dozens of reviews and watched countless youtube comparisons before ordering their "Epsilon" on my 18" 556.  The Gamme isn't terribly heavy either.  

 

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Edited by Spartan
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I didnt know they made the Gamma in 556 actually.  I think the epsilon has some flash prongs added is the difference.  I had a linear comp before and the difference is night and day.  Shoots like a d@mn 22 now. 

 

I threw half a mag downrange at 100 yards shooting off a crappy plastic table just to see how it handled.  It's sighted in at 200 yards so it's shooting a bit high of course.  Pretty tight group for just squeezing them off.  (18" 556 with VG Epsilon comp)

 

B2ADB1D4-6AE3-45D9-AC36-FE0424449C94_zps

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As far as a muzzle brake goes, Im VERY impressed with VG Precision.  Im running their "Gamma" on my Aero build.  I liked it so much, i read dozens of reviews and watched countless youtube comparisons before ordering their "Epsilon" on my 18" 556.  The Gamme isn't terribly heavy either.  

 

2640C770-1C41-4A85-B394-FCCF0E5DBC8D_zps

 

 

Spartan - I'm starting to look for a dedicted .338 brake or comp.  Do you think there's room at the end of this device to bore the exit hole a little larger than .338"?...  Any other obstruction between the barrel muzzle and the end of this device that would need attention?

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Spartan - I'm starting to look for a dedicted .338 brake or comp.  Do you think there's room at the end of this device to bore the exit hole a little larger than .338"?...  Any other obstruction between the barrel muzzle and the end of this device that would need attention?

 

I believe there is plenty of room to open it up.  I can take a closer look tonight and PM you some pictures.  I may have another pic, let me check. 

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If the factory upper config is exactly what you're looking for then that might be a better value, but usually it isn't, so buying it, then buying new parts to put on it ends up more expensive than building it yourself.

If you build, you can generally get a better barrel for the same price too (PSA hasn't established themselves as a precision .308 barrel yet, and also isn't generally regarded as a precision barrel for AR-15s either).

100% disagree having built 3 AR 15's from thier barrels who are made by FN so i do not think their AR 15 barrels lack for quality and mine shoot sub MOA and the 20 is just exceptional

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100% disagree having built 3 AR 15's from thier barrels who are made by FN so i do not think their AR 15 barrels lack for quality and mine shoot sub MOA and the 20 is just exceptional

edit, re read it. Nothing wrong with those FN barrels, but I think the verdict is still out on the 308s Edited by blue109
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That is the plan - anchor it down in the drill press.  Looking at that, and the way they taper down the hole diameter from back to front, I'd have to wonder if I'm changing the effectiveness of it.  They designed it like that for a reason, and I'd change that, boring straight through.

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That is the plan - anchor it down in the drill press.  Looking at that, and the way they taper down the hole diameter from back to front, I'd have to wonder if I'm changing the effectiveness of it.  They designed it like that for a reason, and I'd change that, boring straight through.

 

I thought for sure the first hole was larger but it does look like they taper down.  I wonder what the engineering reason is for that?  

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I thought for sure the first hole was larger but it does look like they taper down.  I wonder what the engineering reason is for that?  

 

Just another means of fastening something securely.  Taper pins act like a wedge, forcing your parts together in multiple directions.

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