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Seeking advice on a barrel situation


StainTrain

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I finished up all the shooting on the MBT-2S today.  While I was in the process of cleaning my weapons, I decided to add a Troy Alpha to one of the rifles.  I removed the FH, FSB, and loosed the barrel nut.  Noting seemed out of place and the barrel nut came off with the normal amount of effort.  Once the barrel nut was off, I noticed the barrel was free spinning.  The index pin was broken and on the floor.  The upper wasn't damaged in any way.  

 

So what are my options.  The barrel is a PSA lighter profile 1/7 that I picked up on sale a couple years ago.  The round count isn't too high, but I have ran it hard.  

 

So what are my options?  Can it be repaired?  Will it cost more to fix than a new one?  I did a little google fu and see where some guys have done it themselves.  Have any of you guys done it?  

 

Again, if it will cost over $90 bucks to repair, I will start shopping Ballistic Advantage or Faxon for a new barrel.  

 

 

 

 

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Not a big deal, if you can get the other piece out. Alot of people think the barrel index pin locks the extension onto the barrel, but it doesn't.  If the old chunk will come out, you have no issues, brother.

 

http://www.jsesurplus.com/ar15barrelextensionpinpinonly.aspx

 

Yank that fucker out with a wicked magnet...  :hethan:

Edited by 98Z5V
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Couldn't get the remaining piece out. Heat, drill press, magic... It's in there. ADCO charges $35 bucks to repair plus both ways shipping. It almost met my new barrel purchase threshold. I will sleep on it. The choice would be a helluva lot easier if everyone didn't seem to have barrel deals.

Edited by StainTrain
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You try the fuckin' wicked magnet yet, brother?  Rip out one of the big 12" speakers in the sub box on your GOV, and use IT for the magnet...  I'm just sayin'...   <lmao>

 

If the barrel is a shooter, save it.  Even if you have to send it to ADCO, and pay.  I still like the GOV sub box idea, though...  You know you can get the sub box replaced, with some loquacious written reports...   <laughs> <thumbsup>

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this method has never failed me yet. BUT, you would have to set up a fairly small drill in a press and thats assuming the pin is only case hardened. Of course yo dont have to get as fancy as thie pic shows but you get the idea. I ususally just drill though the broken pin and drip some thick way oil in there and just use a sharp blow on the center pin. You could use the ass end of the drill you used to put the hole in as a "pin"

 

wkh-chapter12-image004.gif

Edited by Toolndie7
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  Those Alignment Pins are usually a light press fit & the fix above is probably what ADCo will use . They may also have an alignment jig set up to re-drill the old broken pin out & make a custom fit one .

  I certainly would not operate an AR type rifle with out that alignment pin , There is no way I would trust just the Barrel nut to keep the Barrel from rotating . Even a slight rotation , would keep the Bolt from locking  or cause damage to those components .

 

  Kinda makes one wonder why it broke ?

 

  I think the Glue method is promising  <lmao>  

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Drilling a hole thru the center of the pin then using chassis grease to fill the hole and then using a drill rod the same size as the center hole set over the grease and hitting a swift blow with a hammer to hydraulically remove the pin, the grease displaces the bottom of the pin and out it comes.

However I would plan to either use an ease-out or tap the hole with a 10-32 machine screw tap, then screw a machine screw with an allen head cap and screw it out ot pry it out.  It may be that when you start drilling the center hole the pin will be spun out by the drill bit.

 

My big question is why did the pin shear off in the first place! 

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You try the fuckin' wicked magnet yet, brother?  Rip out one of the big 12" speakers in the sub box on your GOV, and use IT for the magnet...  I'm just sayin'...   <lmao>

 

If the barrel is a shooter, save it.  Even if you have to send it to ADCO, and pay.  I still like the GOV sub box idea, though...  You know you can get the sub box replaced, with some loquacious written reports...   <laughs> <thumbsup>

I deployed the magnet (sans the "brick time" method described above")  the barrel just stuck to it. 

 

I sent it to ADCO today.  After screwing around with the barrel yesterday, I determined that $35 is more that fair.  

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My big question is why did the pin shear off in the first place! 

I wish I could answer that.  According to my records, it was torqued to 45 ft lbs.  I treated the barrel harshly recently during my little experiment, but I can't see that as the cause of it. This is the first time this has happened through numerous builds, reconfigurations, and swaps.  

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I finished up all the shooting on the MBT-2S today.  While I was in the process of cleaning my weapons, I decided to add a Troy Alpha to one of the rifles.  I removed the FH, FSB, and loosed the barrel nut.  Noting seemed out of place and the barrel nut came off with the normal amount of effort.  Once the barrel nut was off, I noticed the barrel was free spinning.  The index pin was broken and on the floor.  The upper wasn't damaged in any way.  

 

So what are my options.  The barrel is a PSA lighter profile 1/7 that I picked up on sale a couple years ago.  The round count isn't too high, but I have ran it hard.  

 

So what are my options?  Can it be repaired?  Will it cost more to fix than a new one?  I did a little google fu and see where some guys have done it themselves.  Have any of you guys done it?  

 

Again, if it will cost over $90 bucks to repair, I will start shopping Ballistic Advantage or Faxon for a new barrel.  

 

We're honored to be thought of. 

 

While we have a conflict of interest, as a shop, we pitch barrels if a pin breaks. We do not recommend replacing one. 

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