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Mystery Part in my AR10?


huntxtrm

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Hello,

First all I am new here, and new to AR10's.  I have owned Ar15's in the past, but never an AR10.  I just acquired an older model AR10 Armalite.  When, breaking it down, to check it out.  Prior to shooting it of course.  (Still have not shot it).  I found a part, that I have never encountered in one of my AR15's?  Its not on the parts breakdown from Armalite, either?  Can anyone tell me what it is?  And it's significance?  Attached are some pics.  it is some kind of plunger, that is machine fit into the back of the bolt carrier?  It looks like it rides against the recoil buffer?  Bolt%202.jpgBolt1.jpg

 

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That's a copy of a Tubb CWS, but not a genuine one.  The Tubb CWS tapers at the back, and doesn't have squared-off edges.  Performs the same function, though, that piece you have.

Weigh it, and see what it comes up at.  Get a shot of the back of it, too.  The real part adds 0.080" length to the overall of the BCG, so measure that back lip on the thing, and see how much it's adding...

The CWS has three different weights that you can set it up as - just the body, body with steel insert, body with tungsten insert.

Edited by 98Z5V
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Do us all a favor and fire it with the carrier weight a bit and then take it out and shoot it and let us know of any differences in recoil or accuracy !!!

It would be nice to get a little first hand info on the item if you don't mind...

The Tubb CWS makes a difference - I've posted an entire thread on it before, both .308 and 5.56.

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My first .458 SOCOM was a Rock River that a guy bought for his wife to hunt with.  Turned out it kicked too much for her so he sold it.  I found one of these in it.  The real problem with that rifle is the A2 buttstock has sharp edges on the back that dig into your shoulder.  I shot the rifle with and without it and it did nothing at all for recoil.

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I got bigger troubles now.  My buddy, who knows a little about these, showed me where someone has monkey'd with the trigger group.  I am guessing the original builder.  It fires, when you pull the trigger, and the bolt comes back, if you are still holding the trigger, the bolt seats again, you release the trigger, it fires again!  He said somebody, was trying to do a trigger job, but went a little too far.  So, I am going to have to buy some trigger parts before I shoot it.    Better safe than sorry. 

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I got bigger troubles now.  My buddy, who knows a little about these, showed me where someone has monkey'd with the trigger group.  I am guessing the original builder.  It fires, when you pull the trigger, and the bolt comes back, if you are still holding the trigger, the bolt seats again, you release the trigger, it fires again!  He said somebody, was trying to do a trigger job, but went a little too far.  So, I am going to have to buy some trigger parts before I shoot it.    Better safe than sorry. 

a lot of guys on here really like Mech Armor Defense Systems drop in trigger. Great company with great products 

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My first .458 SOCOM was a Rock River that a guy bought for his wife to hunt with.  Turned out it kicked too much for her so he sold it.  I found one of these in it.  The real problem with that rifle is the A2 buttstock has sharp edges on the back that dig into your shoulder.  I shot the rifle with and without it and it did nothing at all for recoil.

The Tubb CWS does change the recoil impulse - you need to look at it again, because if you didn't notice it, there's something going on.

What was the configuration?  Body only, steel insert, tungsten insert, you didn't check or didn't know?...  It makes a difference in the recoil impulse...

Edited by 98Z5V
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Ok, for those of you that want to know. You could tell a difference in recoil, with out it, it did kick just a bit more. But with my loads of 43gn of 4064, behind a 150gn hornady interlock sp. It just didn't quite have enough bang to make it cycle consistently with the weight. I remove the weight, grouping improved to sub moa. Gonna have to do some more trigger work on it. Somebody, before me, took a little too much of the sear. It shoots on the trigger pull stroke, and trigger release stroke. Sometimes.. Because the disconnector, disconnects, before the sear has control of the hammer. I am most likely going to get a match trigger anyway. If it shoots this good, like it is. I think its worth moving forward with. Recon? I'm thinking match trigger.. Get rid of the flash hider, install a brake. Then move on with developing a load for it. What do you guys think? Is this a good order to go in, on one of these AR's?

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    I would scrap that Trigger first ( and I mean in the trash ), you have no idea what someone messed with . If your at a range & the rifle goes full auto & if someone is there, that is not understanding to your situation , you could have legal problems .

    Plenty of good trigger systems ( FCG ) out there , the MechArmor is a very good single stage trigger & then there is Geissele , just about any kind or configuration with them , just on the higher end , price wise . I have both & like both.

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The Tubb CWS does change the recoil impulse - you need to look at it again, because if you didn't notice it, there's something going on.

What was the configuration?  Body only, steel insert, tungsten insert, you didn't check or didn't know?...  It makes a difference in the recoil impulse...

Sure, I understand the physics.  It adds mass to the bolt.  Combined with proper gas and a proper spring it slows down the bolt.  I get it.  That changes the recoil impulse and the felt recoil, but it does nothing for your shoulder when the buttstock has sharp notches digging into your shoulder.  Also consider this was a hot .458 SOCOM round.  It's a thumper.

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