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Elftmann trigger WARNING


Thorax

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5 hours ago, Robocop1051 said:

I was going to say something... but I forgot Shepp likes this part of his job more than me. I'll let him have he honors if it goes that far  

thats Mr. Asshole to you sir!

 

i never thought about shot show, but thats was farkles issue with them too. but thats besides the point, i told him how to get their attention.  it seems that my post was completely over looked......... 

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some people just like to bitch. If you want a gun that will probably work perfectly out of the box, go buy a whole gun from a well known manufacturer. This is the place of mostly building guns and some times that takes some playing around to get everything running right. This is a great place for getting help for those fixes to get things working right, that's what a lot of people need to realize.

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7 hours ago, ARTrooper said:

some people just like to bitch. If you want a gun that will probably work perfectly out of the box, go buy a whole gun from a well known manufacturer. This is the place of mostly building guns and some times that takes some playing around to get everything running right. This is a great place for getting help for those fixes to get things working right, that's what a lot of people need to realize.

Right on ARTrooper,

 Im tired of buying store bought AR's cause i end up changing them everytime. Im selling my store bought AR's this spring. If were so easy everyone will build one vs buying a complete. 

Plus its you appreciate your gun more when u build them :thumbup:

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  • 2 weeks later...

I consider myself somewhat of a expert on elftman triggers, with over 2000 rounds through 3 of them I have never seen the issue you speak ofI have seen the light primer strikes which model do you have do you have the 308 specific one ? or the 5.56 version you can change the springs but you will get nowhere here insulting people who do know the trigger and believe me 98,knows the trigger they have been on guns here for a few years now ....so something is fooked up for it to do what you say!

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1 hour ago, Magwa said:

FUK I am like blisters , they always show up after the work is done!

Nah, you're good, brother.  His last post was 31 Jan,and the last time he was here was 31 Jan.  I was hoping he'd come back one more time to list his trigger in the For Sale section, but I don't think he'll be back anymore... 

Sucks, too - I was gonna offer him 50 feet of used garden hose for it. 

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  • 2 months later...
On 2/15/2017 at 5:42 PM, Magwa said:

I consider myself somewhat of a expert on elftman triggers, with over 2000 rounds through 3 of them I have never seen the issue you speak ofI have seen the light primer strikes which model do you have do you have the 308 specific one ? or the 5.56 version you can change the springs but you will get nowhere here insulting people who do know the trigger and believe me 98,knows the trigger they have been on guns here for a few years now ....so something is fooked up for it to do what you say!

Magwa touched on this, but, for the record...

308 trigger in a 308, AR15 trigger in the AR15.  I'm personally running the Elftmann AR15 Match trigger in my 16" 308AR, and I've never, ever, not even once, had an issue with it.  Every single time I pulled that AR15 Match trigger, my 308AR went bang.  Every time.

I'm just sayin'...  :thumbup:

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Since it's a severe warning to so many people, and that dude's trigger was a POS, I just wanted to rub it in again.

I hope he subscribed to this topic when he created it, and he gets an email notification tomorrow at work,that there was a reply...  :laffs:

I'll still give him 50ft of used garden hose for his sucky trigger. Take it off his hands and help him out, ya know. :banana:

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I still love mine and every person who ever fired it loves it too....... I can say for certain the 308 version does NOT work with the sig patrol rifle ...the lower is cut a bit low and the trigger drags the BCG   bad just had a buddy with that problem he went to a gessille.. and that solved his problem not sure why the elftman does not work in that rifle...

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  • 6 months later...

Kind off late to the party but recently built an AR10 in 6.5 CM. I have had issues with the Elftmann trigger since I have first attempted to use it. My original issue was my BCG would not cycle fully and get hung up. My issue ,I had the trigger poundage adjustment screw to far out and was catching the BCG, fixed.

Second issue was light primer strikes. Found out my set screws onto the bottom plate were not tight enough. Thought that fixed it. Went to range a couple days ago and ran 125 gr. Winchester, 25 rounds without an issue. Went to a 143 ELD X in Hornady precision hunter and the light primer strikes came back.

I actually got to speak with Art at Elftmann and after explaining the sound it makes on the primer strikes with no ignition as a twangy spring sound he said that the BCG is to blame as it is not fully engaging the trigger each time and I am only getting an 85% strike from hammer. I am lost on that one but I also am not a smith or highly educated in AR platforms. If I am manually putting a round in the chamber with the discharge handle, pulling it fully to the rear shouldn't that fully engage the trigger? I had light strikes after manual and as well after a normal cycle after a successful shot. It did eject the spent brass. Do you think this is a BCG issue, Trigger issue or possibly the bolt not seating 100% and the light primer strike due to the minutely larger grain bullet not letting it seat correctly.

Thanks for any help or advice you might have. I am way past my knowledge at this point.

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Head space was not checked. That was going to possibly be my next step would be standard trigger and see how it functions. Sounds like this trigger has a drop safety and that seems to be catching. Maybe i need to increase poundage all the way and see if that cause it to catch fully cocked instead of the drop safety?

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9 hours ago, H2ODog said:

(1) (and 1.5)  Kind off late to the party but recently built an AR10 in 6.5 CM. I have had issues with the Elftmann trigger since I have first attempted to use it. My original issue was my BCG would not cycle fully and get hung up. My issue ,I had the trigger poundage adjustment screw to far out and was catching the BCG, fixed.

(2)  Second issue was light primer strikes. Found out my set screws onto the bottom plate were not tight enough. Thought that fixed it. Went to range a couple days ago and ran 125 gr. Winchester, 25 rounds without an issue. Went to a 143 ELD X in Hornady precision hunter and the light primer strikes came back.

(3)  I actually got to speak with Art at Elftmann and after explaining the sound it makes on the primer strikes with no ignition as a twangy spring sound he said that the BCG is to blame as it is not fully engaging the trigger each time and I am only getting an 85% strike from hammer. I am lost on that one but I also am not a smith or highly educated in AR platforms. If I am manually putting a round in the chamber with the discharge handle, pulling it fully to the rear shouldn't that fully engage the trigger? I had light strikes after manual and as well after a normal cycle after a successful shot. It did eject the spent brass. Do you think this is a BCG issue, Trigger issue or possibly the bolt not seating 100% and the light primer strike due to the minutely larger grain bullet not letting it seat correctly.

Thanks for any help or advice you might have. I am way past my knowledge at this point.

 

6 hours ago, survivalshop said:

 Was the Head Space checked  after assembly ?

 

4 hours ago, H2ODog said:

Head space was not checked.

Okay, first, I want to address the 3 things I numbered above.

(1)  You're never late to the party here, 'cause this shiit never stops...  :laffs:

(1.5) Is the rifle really an Armalite AR-10?  In 6.5C?  Or did you build this rifle/buy this rifle, and it's not a true Armalite pattern?  We need to know this, because we need to know what the actual, specific components are.  If this was built, did you build it?  Let us know exactly what parts you used, DPMS pattern or Armalite pattern, who made the receivers, - and most importantly, what brand is that BCG?...  If someone else built it, and you bought it - we need you to find out exactly what components were used in the build - that BCG, really...  Receivers, too.  Barrel manufacturer as well.  Those specific parts are the big players in this one.

(2)  That's a reloading issue.  If you have light primer strikes on one load, and not on another, something isn't different with the trigger, but something IS different with the ammo.  What primers were used?  Seated to what depth?, etc...  If the trigger runs on something, then it should be setup to run on just about anything but old-a$s hard military/NATO primers.  Those things are a different story.

(3) What Art is telling you doesn't make any sense to me.  None at all.  If your ammo is properly loaded, projectile weight doesn't mean shiit.  Powder charge doesn't mean shiit - none of that matters, when you're looking at how hard the hammer face strikes the firing pin strikes the primer.  Firing pin-to-primer matters, and that's the function of the hemmer (weight) and the hammer spring (tension). Primers matter, if they're hard-as-hell mil-surp primers, and you're not setup for them.  All that other stuff doesn't matter.  If the ammo is loaded right.

What SS said...  headspace.  Get it checked first; find someone you know with 6.5C headspace gauges, or pay a gunsmitter to do it (had to use the term...).  Rule out headspace FIRST in this issue, then we look at that trigger.

FWIW, if you feel comfortable enough with it, you can ship that trigger to me, I'll tune it up and ship it right back.  If we time the shipping back and forth, this can be done in a week, total.  Get it to me by mid-week, I'll fire it up and put it into one of my guns, shoot that thing on the weekend, makes whatever tweaks are necessary, and get it back in the mail to you on a Monday morning.  :thumbup:

Edited by 98Z5V
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One other thing - this trigger has a "half-cocked" position.  I'll make a video of it, if need be, so it's easy to see.  If you're recoil system is jacked, you're not returning the bolt/BCG to battery when it needs to be, the trigger can get stuck in the half cocked position.  Thus, the next round, you're firing from the half cocked position, and you won't have the full power of the hammer spring.  That "half cocked" position is really like "only 1/3rd cocked," when you really look at it close.

On the same ammo, are you having problems with successive rounds?  Like, first one and two fire, then I get a weird click, and a light strike... 

Or, is this truly a different-ammo thing?

Your answer will tell me about your trigger pull, with this trigger - and whatever it is, that's not a bad thing.  Just lemme know.

Please list all your recoil-system parts, as well.  Receiver extension (include internal depth of the receiver extension, milspec or commercial - internal depth is either gonna be 7" or 7 5/8"), what brand of recoil spring (relaxed length, coil count, wire diameter if possible), and buffer type-length, overall, front to back - how long is that buffer?  If it's got a weight rating, it'll be stamped on the face.  If nothing is stamped on the face of the buffer, we can figure that out quick.

Edited by 98Z5V
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Finally, one LAST question...   When you received this ELF trigger, did you fuk with it?   :laffs:

I always need to know - because right out of the box, it will run.  Right out of the box, it should run just right, for most rifles/builds/ammo.  Some are finicky, some builds, some ammo  - but most of the problems I've seen with this trigger were induced by trigger-tuning before ever shooting it or installing it. 

If you did, that's not a bad thing.  There's just a few key things on this trigger to pay attention to, when you tweak it. 

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1. No poop

1.5 DPMS pattern and i did put it together myself. The upper and lower are both by Quentin tacticle. The BCG is CMMG and the trigger as previous stated.

2. I dont reload, these were all factory loads. The Winchester that i had no issues with were gold colored primers and the Hornady were silver.

3. They did tell me that this trigger has a drop safety that it could be catching at which would cause a light strike. Not sure how it could get to this point when the gun fully cycles when the shot actually works.

I am going to take it back to Quentin on Monday and have them check the tolerances. Making sure that when it cycles the bolt is completely shutting and locking in. Was told that it is possible if it is not quite tight enough that the trigger may still be pulled but the firing pin wont make good contact.

The Elftmann company is local here in AZ. And told me they would send me a brand new trigger if i wanted. Thinking of dropping a mil spec trigger in and see if that works.

Will do headspace Monday and go from there. Thank you for all your help.

If it is ejecting the brass shouldn’t it be fully engaging the BCG?

Worked with all my Winchester ammo. Issue was with the Hornady. 

Usually the first round would fire then a click. Sometimes maybe 2 rounds might fire then a click.No rhyme or reason.

Will try and get you the spring info and stuff tomorrow. Dont get off work till 7 in the morning.

Didnt Fuk with the trigger other than the Screw for the trigger pull weight which is external so didn’t mess with any internals.

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2 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

Finally, one LAST question...   When you received this ELF trigger, did you fuk with it?   :laffs:

I always need to know - because right out of the box, it will run.  Right out of the box, it should run just right, for most rifles/builds/ammo.  Some are finicky, some builds, some ammo  - but most of the problems I've seen with this trigger were induced by trigger-tuning before ever shooting it or installing it. 

If you did, that's not a bad thing.  There's just a few key things on this trigger to pay attention to, when you tweak it. 

Yea don’t fuck with it..........lol 

 

i should bring that trigger with me next week and make a video on how to fix the cock sucker

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