fr3db3ar Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 I decided to dive into the trigger yesterday. I've never worked on the AR platform but I've seen a few other triggers. Simple design, came apart easily. I took my dremel to the trigger and sear mating surfaces just enough to remove the machine marks.What a difference. Smooth as glass, breaks around 4 to 5 pounds. Much better than what it was and all the grit is gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fr3db3ar Posted February 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 This is still alive but I have some issues. I originally barely did any polishing, certainly not enough to break through any hardening....assuming there was any to begin with. Why would my sear continue to gouge marks into my trigger face? It just makes it all gritty again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Depending on the manufacturer of said components , the hardening could be almost nothing or spotty at best & you have ,buy polishing , broken through some of it .Could also be , one component harder than the other .I no longer play with the std. FCG parts & just replace them with good triggers & I have worked on a lot of AR FCG's.A Dremel tool would not be my first choice to do any work on them , too easy to over do it & not know it . I use only natural stones to polish the mating surfaces up . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KillShot Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Swap the trigger for a Geissele SSA-E and you'll never look back. Nothing to adjust or change with a 3.5# pull. It's superb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fr3db3ar Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 I know about the drop-ins but I'm having a hard time justifying an upgrade that is the price of a decent handgun. :( I've smoothed off the lip of the sear I can't figure out why or how it would continue to be able to gouge the face of the trigger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty44 Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Read my thread under "triggers." The RRA trigger I bought is cheap, about $100 (?); first stage pull is a smooth little swing of a measured (about) 1/8 inch; then it stops; pressure increase on the trigger finger and the gun goes 'bang.' Spec says 3.5 pounds.The gunsmith where I bought the trigger noted that because I have a factory rifle, the RRA trigger would not void my warranty like some drop-in triggers would. Not a factor for DIY builds. (The manufacturers say they can detect Varget and maybe other powders and reloads void the warranty anyway. Makes me wonder what is in or not in the bulk powders so this can be done.)Replacing the DPMS factory trigger with the RRA trigger took the gunsmith less than a minute. He did it almost for free in trade for the original DPMS trigger. It would be interesting to know what he wanted to do with that original trigger(?).My bottom line: everything I have ever read about DIY gunsmithing says never never touch the trigger sear surfaces unless you have genuine qualification. Your trigger needs replacement or to be sent out for professional attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty44 Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 I have read that the triggers on many guns of all kinds are very uneven in design, heat treatments, alloys, hardening. Some are nearly indestructible. Some are made of quite soft metals and are intended to last under 'typical user' conditions that amount to shooting one or two clips or cylinders when the gun is new and maybe the rest of a whole box of ammo in the following hundred years. Some trigger parts will stand up to an almost infinite number of firing cycles but the more durable and better functioning they are, the more steps and care that is needed and the more expensive to manufacture.Most trigger parts are intended to last only as long as will satisfy the majority of gun owners. The majority do not shoot their guns very often nor do they fire very many rounds. Something that surfaces in my mind is of a comment in a forum where the person said that he only used his rifle for hunting and expected a single box of rifle ammo to last ten to fifteen years, or longer.Most sear surfaces are heat treated a little and case hardened some. Some gun maker's products are noted for their durability and others for using almost mild steel with case hardening that is barely a molecule thick and then sketchy. Many of these small parts come from a contractor and are being made to just barely pass whatever acceptance QC tests the gun maker might do, if any. Do not expect much unless there is a lot more information provided or independent third party data is available.My paranoia paints a pathetic picture but that does not mean that reality is any better. Mostly, expect worst case and if what you get is actually better then you will be quite happy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texas30cal Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 I always hated he trigger on my bushmaster ar15, long rough and hard. I went to a shop here in town out of frustration and got a cheap rock river single stage and WOW! what a difference, the original was one of those mentioned above just looking at the rock river you can see better quality and better grinding work that was done on the sear faces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fr3db3ar Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Thanks, I hadn't seen that recommended anywhere. Guess I'll have to click on Brownell's from here and git r done. ;DAnything is better than what I have going on right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LLArms Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 Step 1: GoogleStep 2: Type "AR 15 Minute Trigger Job"Step 3: Enjoy $200 Trigger Job for FreeDon't like the results? Spend $6.00 to replace the parts back to factory specs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fr3db3ar Posted February 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 Thanks, I had already checked that out buy my issue was the sear kept gouging the trigger face even after I radiused the edge a little.The RR trigger came today and went right in......what a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 I just did the "15 Minute Trigger Job" on my LR 308 and all I can say is WOW! After doing as instructed I lubed everything with some Mobil1 and put a dab of Chip McCormicks's Trigger Slick on the sear contact surface. By my RCBS trigger pull gauge the trigger consistently trips at 48 ounces every time! Before doing the work the pull was clear off my scale, which maxes out at 72 ounces. Now if I don't have any problems with setting off the primers then it's all good! <thumbsup> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7.62fan Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 I've wondered if anyone has had Bill Springfield work on their 308AR triggers? For less than $50 you get stock to very crisp breaks. Just wonderin'. I have not, but have several sets of 308/5.56 triggers laying around, and would consider having Bill work on them. His URL is triggerwork.net . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LLArms Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 I just did the "15 Minute Trigger Job" on my LR 308 and all I can say is WOW! After doing as instructed I lubed everything with some Mobil1 and put a dab of Chip McCormicks's Trigger Slick on the sear contact surface. By my RCBS trigger pull gauge the trigger consistently trips at 48 ounces every time! Before doing the work the pull was clear off my scale, which maxes out at 72 ounces. Now if I don't have any problems with setting off the primers then it's all good! <thumbsup>It should still have all the power behind the hammer needed to send them flying.The good news is this method allows for some customizing with the bends and cuts. The other good news is the parts are $6.00 or less.Once I found this article I don't see myself ever buying an aftermarket 1 stage trigger ever again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 I got RRA triggers 2-2stages and 1 single stage and like them,I sent Mr. Springfield a e-mail and he said he could improve what I had for like $30.00 each.Now I'm back to work and will use he's services.I'm not into cutting springs they were engineered like they are by people smarter than me,just my opinion. ::) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LLArms Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 I got RRA triggers 2-2stages and 1 single stage and like them,I sent Mr. Springfield a e-mail and he said he could improve what I had for like $30.00 each.Now I'm back to work and will use he's services.I'm not into cutting springs they were engineered like they are by people smarter than me,just my opinion. ::)Actually a lot of parts are made to prevent failures due to extended use and heavy punishment. They have to build stuff around the most extreme of users, not the actual majority of market users.Most tires are made and rated in the hundreds of MPH range. Unless you have a speed problem your average user won't go over 90mph.Things like "mil spec" are a buzz word. I have no doubt the majority of "mil spec" rifle owners won't do anything with that rifle that comes close to warranting the "mil spec".If you are after durability - I would think your idea is more accurate though. :o :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikedaddyH Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Any one used the JP spring kit on the DMPS trigger setup ?[Red and Yellow ,hammer and trigger springs ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbesgunner Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Yes ...but that was with considerable stoning on hammer and trigger....not bad for single stage when done....don't know what it would have produced with just spring change.........switched it to Rock River 2 stage few months ago..much better....have the JP springs in 4 rifles all together......can't say wether it's better to replace springs or just take some of the tension out of factory springs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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